This is the one I recently saved from going to scrap. Same model 7313 but serial number 089 1651. Guessing the year would be around late 70's. Not the original motor, which is now a 1996 Quantum. Don't know if the engine is even mounted high enough above the deck for belts to align properly as the top of the v-pulley assembly appears to sit about 50mm +/- below the deck. After a lot of cleaning, it was great to hear it start, and even better when it actually worked as a mower, although, sitting on it was a bit dodgey with the seat only having 2 legs that are attached to the frame. :-) Seems my photos can only be seen now when logged in as a member. Is that something new????
Yeah. My wife's father had given her this blue colt. I was told to put a lil fuel in the spark plug then it would start. Had this for 7-8years then the engine played up. We found a red colt for sale, have used it for a year or so. The pedal mechanism is opposite to the blue colt, blue colt pedal down to go.. Red colt pedal down to stop. Pain in the arss the red one. It had a disc brake on it. But i liked the blue colt better. So my old man pulled mine apart painted it and reassembled it. We even took the motor off the red colt and used it on the blue colt. Was working great, then a few weeks later mowing my yard it decided not to hold on the hill once I take my foot off the pedal. We got the braking arm lever off. Drilled out the rivits that held the brake pad ( the brake pad was hard as a rock) we sent to a small engine mechanic and he replaced it with a newy. It still don't brake, doesn't even hold on a hill when I take it down a hill untill it stops it's self. So that is my problem.
Well, I'm not much help judging by this machine. Just checked out the .pdf for the 7313 model and appears the v-pulley assembly is upside down. Seems the large end of the pulley, which is shown as the drive belt section, should be at the top, where my machine it is on the bottom driving the cutter deck. Whoever replaced the motor seems to have put it on the wrong way. It still works..... hahahaha..... Haven't seen a brake pad yet, so will go have another look under the mower. Also, according to the IPL, there is only one spring, yet this machine has two. Maybe someone could shed some more light on these anomalies.
Just lookin at those pics above. I noticed the throttle cable comes around from the left. My cable comes from the right.. I'm gonna try get some pics of mine. The mower is at my dad's place.
Just lookin at those pics above. I noticed the throttle cable comes around from the left. My cable comes from the right.. I'm gonna try get some pics of mine. The mower is at my dad's place.
If you have the original white square block Briggs and Stratton I believe these should have mounted on them, I think the throttle cable is suppose to go along the right hand side and around the front of the engine. This mower I have has had a Quantum mounted on it and therefore, coming from the left, is the most effective way for the throttle cable to work on it. As the engine on mine seems in good working order, I'm going to do an oil change on it today, along with fitting a new air filter cartridge, pre-filter and air cleaner gasket (fell apart when I was cleaning carbie), so will be turning mower upside down to drain the oil and take some photos of the sunny side down mechanicals for future reference. :-)
Was working great, then a few weeks later mowing my yard it decided not to hold on the hill once I take my foot off the pedal. We got the braking arm lever off. Drilled out the rivits that held the brake pad ( the brake pad was hard as a rock) we sent to a small engine mechanic and he replaced it with a newy. It still don't brake, doesn't even hold on a hill when I take it down a hill untill it stops it's self. So that is my problem.
After I turned the mower on its head to drain the oil (as I indicated above), I think I worked how the brakes work on these...well how it appears to me that they should work anyway.... Whilst the mower is in gear, be it forward or reverse, there should be tension on the drive belt. With your foot off the throttle lever, there should be tension on the v-belt and the brake pad should be hard against the final drive v-pulley stopping the mower from moving. If the mower is in neutral, and there is no tension on the v-belt, the brake is basically not in effect. It seems to be the gearbox that stopped the mower from moving. If the engine is stopped, and left in gear, you should not be to push it. As for anyone else who is looking or having issues, I've uploaded photos of the underside of my machine in this post, but note that the drive pulley assembly on the engine has been incorrectly mounted to the motor upside down and, after I accidentally ran into the back of my car due to speed on take-off in the wrong gear, it will definately be reversed to slow the bugger down. The small v-pulley should be at the top (near the motor) for the drive system and the larger v-pulley should be on the bottom for the cutter deck, which means the cutter plate and blades will spin faster, and the size of the v-pulley should also assit in stopping the cutter belt from falling off the assembly. :-) Hope some of these photos help.
Just looking at my own photos, I think I worked out why it takes of so quick. The idler pulley has a lot of rust on it, so rather than the belt slip on the v-pulley as you put the throttle down, it grabs hold and takes off. :-O Included in the above photos is the brake pad on the v-pulley for the deck as well as other moving parts for the undercarriage, including the basic steering. I was concerned that I may need to change the belts, but if the pulley assembly was reversed, I believe the belts will actually fit better, especially the cutter belt. The rusty idler puller has quite a bit of movement in the bearing, but still works okay, so may be a good idea to change it before I sell the mower, but already cost $100 for fuel line, air filter cartridge, pre-filter, air cleaner gasket, oil, plug and a pair of front tyres (yet to be fitted). Still have to weld the 25mm gap on the seat support so the metal meets the chassis. Overall, it's a fun little machine. Just have to remember it doesn't stop that well, especially when you think the throttle is a brake and you run up the back of your car when you are in forward and not reverse..... hahahaha :-)
So was at my dad's place today had another go at this brake problem.. I found another drive belt that wasn't so worn. Tried another spring on the braking arm. Still no difference. So looking at the setup of the pulleys and belt, when your foot is off the pedal, the belt is loose around the pullies and the brake pad touches the gear box pulley. Once you press down on the pedal the pad moves away and the pulley on the end of brake arm takes up the slack of the drive belt hence makes the mower move if in gear. Was looking at the pics we took before the reno was done on it and saw that the link rod from the pedal to the braking arm (what ever it is called) was positioned in the second hole, mine is in the first one (see pic). Tomorrow I will try it in the second hole.
Really don't know how that drive belt fitted around all 3 pulleys on yours.. Lol. There ain't much movement in the mechanism to get my drive belt around the 3 pulleys.
Just looking at my own photos, I think I worked out why it takes of so quick. The idler pulley has a lot of rust on it, so rather than the belt slip on the v-pulley as you put the throttle down, it grabs hold and takes off. :-O Included in the above photos is the brake pad on the v-pulley for the deck as well as other moving parts for the undercarriage, including the basic steering. I was concerned that I may need to change the belts, but if the pulley assembly was reversed, I believe the belts will actually fit better, especially the cutter belt. The rusty idler puller has quite a bit of movement in the bearing, but still works okay, so may be a good idea to change it before I sell the mower, but already cost $100 for fuel line, air filter cartridge, pre-filter, air cleaner gasket, oil, plug and a pair of front tyres (yet to be fitted). Still have to weld the 25mm gap on the seat support so the metal meets the chassis. Overall, it's a fun little machine. Just have to remember it doesn't stop that well, especially when you think the throttle is a brake and you run up the back of your car when you are in forward and not reverse..... hahahaha :-)
Really don't know how that drive belt fitted around all 3 pulleys on yours.. Lol. There ain't much movement in the mechanism to get my drive belt around the 3 pulleys.
Really don't know how that drive belt fitted around all 3 pulleys on yours.. Lol. There ain't much movement in the mechanism to get my drive belt around the 3 pulleys.
Check where you have the idler arm bolted to the chassis. Maybe a photo showing the full system like mine does may help, because your arm (with the brake pad and idler pulley) seems to be coming in at a greater angle to the drive pulley than mine does (as shown in these two photos). It may just be the angle of our photos but, according to my train of thought, the brake pad should be tight against the drive pulley if the pedal is all the way back from the throttle position. Mine is happy working in the same rod hole as you have shown above.
Really don't know how that drive belt fitted around all 3 pulleys on yours.. Lol. There ain't much movement in the mechanism to get my drive belt around the 3 pulleys.
Check where you have the idler arm bolted to the chassis. Maybe a photo showing the full system like mine does may help, because your arm (with the brake pad and idler pulley) seems to be coming in at a greater angle to the drive pulley than mine does (as shown in these two photos). It may just be the angle of our photos but, according to my train of thought, the brake pad should be tight against the drive pulley if the pedal is all the way back from the throttle position. Mine is happy working in the same rod hole as you have shown above.
Ok here is another pic similar photo angle as yours.
Thank you for the new photo. The brake and idler pulley arm looks like a better fit in this picture compared to your other one because the brake pad is actually resting against the drive pulley here where your last photo it appears to miss by a mile. The only thing I could add is to check the brake/throttle pedal is all the way back (toward the seat) and not caught on anything. If it fitted before you changed the brake pad, it should still fit.
For best braking performance, and effective pad wear, I reckon the brake pad should meet both top and bottom edges of the gear drive pulley. If it doesn't, I feel the idler/brake arm could twist a fraction if uneven pressure is not applied when braking. Alternative is to park the mower facing across and not down the hill, but you will still need the brakes to work when mowing down hill.
Hey, i know this is an old post, but the reason you were having a lot of trouble is the engine pulley is on upside down... Small vee drives the traction and the bigger one drives the deck. It was way oversized on the bottom side so when the deck disengaged the belt doesnt fall off.
