OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Active Threads

Just a couple notes on adjusting the fuel mixture.

First the low and high do interact. So it is to get the idle mixture right first. IF were an Echo trimmer I could provide basic procedure but you must have a tachometer. It is that you tune to best speed and then enrich to slow down some. Then you peak the high and then enrich for a 100-150 drop. From there you fine tune for throttle response.

Second the metering lever should be set at the correct height or you have over rich or lean out. Similar a stiffen metering diaphragm can cause problems. This why I have three different metering lever tools for Walbro [2] and Zama [1]. Many of the Ruixing carburetors uses one of the three depending on which carburetor it is a clone of.

Basically this interaction is the same for all carbs as the idle mixture feeds all the time.

Hi Voltron

Yes similar to Scott Bonnar.

I'd first check that the main pto shaft going the the chain drive is spinning as the engine clutch on these is known to slip when worn, also the grub screw on some mowers where the clutch locks to the engines crank can come loose
allowing the shaft to spin without moving the clutch under load.

If those above parts are good you will need to check the chain drive unit to the drum.

Cheers
Max.

Hi Jmckenzie,

From memory some info here

https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=58949

https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.a...st-workshop-manual-c1964.html#Post109944

https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.a...p;Words=lauson&Search=true#Post37783

https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=72511

Cheers
Max.

Whatever bolt you can find that will fit will do the job, usually 8mm or 5/16th, some might even take 3/8th, depends on the hole size in the motor

If remember correct the Briggs are unthreaded to start with they are 3/8 holes that they use self tappers. So if the new and never had screws in it then you just tapped to which 3/8 course thread that is easily available in your area provide you have the correct tap.

I've heard of people cleaning the carby 3 times then using an ultrasonic cleaner before the carby works properly
and sometimes people soak the carby in Acetone

You can soak metal parts in Acetone but make sure no rubber parts touch Acetone.

Soak metal parts only for 24 hours maximum to fully dissolve buildup while minimizing any risk to aluminum. Shorter times like overnight (8-12 hours) work well for lighter deposits, followed by brushing and air-blowing.
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Effectiveness and Tips
Pure acetone outperforms diluted cleaners for stubborn gunk on brass jets and castings. Check progress after 12 hours, rinse with clean solvent if needed, and always dry completely before reassembly.


Boiling a lawnmower carburetor in a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water can effectively remove rust, scale, and light corrosion from metal parts like brass jets and aluminum castings.
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Recommended Process
Heat the solution to around 60°C (not a rolling boil) and soak disassembled metal components for 20-30 minutes, stirring occasionally for even cleaning. Rinse thoroughly with water, neutralize any residue with baking soda if needed, then dry completely and blow out passages with compressed air.
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Limitations and Risks
This method works well for mild buildup but may not dissolve heavy varnish as effectively as acetone; pure vinegar is often preferred over diluted mixes to boost acidity. Avoid prolonged exposure or boiling on aluminum to prevent pitting, and never include rubber, plastic, or coated parts, as acid can degrade them.
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Or

Gently heat pure vinegar 100 percent to 50-60°C (warm, not boiling) on a stove or in a double boiler, then soak metal components for 30-60 minutes while stirring occasionally for effective rust removal without damage. Boiling risks accelerating corrosion on sensitive alloys, so monitor temperature closely.
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Post-Cleaning Steps
Rinse immediately with plenty of water, soak briefly in baking soda solution to neutralize acid residue, dry thoroughly, and blow out jets with compressed air.


Cheers
Max.

Hi Leifc145 ,

I'm not a Scott Bonnar reel mower expert but it should have a model number on the badge but if that's missing it makes it more difficult ..

The main ones I see without a clutch on the engine PTO shaft are a Diplomat 590 so possibly could be a bitsa .

Cheers
Max

Thanks for the replies NormK and Maxwestern.

Turns out the problem was poor contact, the cable lugs were contacting on the nuts rather than the posts and there was a fair amount of oxidation on the nuts. I replaced the nuts, added some washers and the switch is working well again.

Hi All,

Have a few old CD's of briggs image attached.

Just send me a PM an I will arrange Shipping.

Postage would be $14.50 Australia wide

Hi Adam,

M122X possibly 1989 to 1994


M120X → nominal class ≈ 120 cc

M122X → nominal class ≈ 122 cc
121–122 cc (often quoted as 121.5 cc)

As far as I know

Parts are functionally M120X

Every confirmed M122X owner who has rebuilt one has found that:

carburettor

crank seals

ignition

piston & bore

gaskets

…match M120X specifications.

In practice, suppliers, rebuilders, and forums treat M122X = M120X for parts purposes.

From what I've read the carbies are different or jetting and governor linkage.

A local mower shop should be able to clean the carby or do it yourself,

Old mowers are cheaper than parts ,usually you can find one for $10. or thrown out ones in scrap metal.

Cheers
Max.

Thanks Norm,

just for future reference, as I always have the diff locked for the hilly area I mow, would a Greenfield without diff lock be just as effective as one with (in locked position)? I assume it would, but....... And if so, did Greenfield make 34 inch units without diff locks?

I work the mower fairly hard because of the slopes and although the area gets more and more manicured, I still hit the odd rock or two, and have in the past broken decks. Drive failures seem to occur as per MattDT's 2019 Greenfield Fastcut Transmission overhaul (short shaft) post- stuck in forward or both forward and reverse simultaneously- hence I've had a play with rebuilding a transmission (although without the knowledge that MattDT made accessible in his post- hence a less than perfect effort). Up until now I've purchased second hand units with a few hundred hours on them and run them successfully for 4 or 5 years (I average 60-70 hours mowing per year) before I break a deck, an engine fails or the drive clags up. I then buy another. Lack of cash prevents me spending the big dollars on a new or nearly new unit, unfortunately.

Prior to discovering the wheel problem described in my post above, I had just finished the transplant of a transmission/drive unit I had rebuilt a few years ago (rebuilt meaning pulling down and replacing corks- not going to the lengths I should have) from a defunct a 20hp unit (governor failure as per my first post many years ago) into my current 13hp unit. I noticed that the main visible difference between units was the use of cuphead bolts and nuts securing bearing shells (?) to chassis in the 13hp, meaning the cut out in the clutch pulley is needed, whereas in the 20hp unit standard nuts and bolts are used, and there is no need for a notch in the pulley. I've yet to test it out, but I'm hopeful it will work long enough for me to do a proper rebuild of the removed drive, paying careful attention to MattDT's wisdom, which seems to suggest biting the bullet and spending close to a thousand dollars on new components such that I should get many years of trouble-free drive......Should you or anyone else have any knowledge of issues associated with such a transplant, please let me know.

Oh, and I'll let the forum know should my wheel stud fix not work as hoped. Otherwise you can assume the bolts welded in nicely and the wheel was reattached.

Thanks again.

Crank lengths are close enough, but you might have to play with the boss lengths but no big deal

I am looking for a gearbox for an R360 Deutscher if anybody know of one kicking around Melbourne or the surrounding area. A complete mower or parts mower is fine as long as the gearbox is ok will be fine

Gday all, hoping this thread is still alive and active. I have recently picked up an AV everyman 15-inch cylinder mower. Runs really nice, although I need to fix the throttle at the carby. I see you guys are chasing part numbers etc so I will post what I have, hopefully in photos if I can figure that out.

Yes Stihl made it difficult on this model AMP to get the primer bulb in, good that it's running now.

I've never had a shortage of snippers from tip shops for $5. or free at the side of the road so I've never had to buy a cutting head.

I think all the FS36 Trimmers I've had ,the oldest were from the nineties ,I did see an early one online that sounds like your one.

This is what is on my FS36 AutoCut 11‑2 (4004 710 2192) not sure if this fit's the earlier model without comparing one.

Officially listed for FS36: The FS36 owner’s manual and dealer listings show the AutoCut 11‑2 (4004 710 2192) as the correct mowing head for that model and similar-era units.

Right size and weight: It is a light, semi‑automatic dual‑line head designed for small trimmers, so it suits the FS36’s power and curved shaft without overloading it. It works best with 2.0–2.4 mm line.

When it’s “about the best”
For normal lawn edges, grass, and light weeds, the AutoCut 11‑2 gives a clean cut, easy bump‑feed, and uses the standard guard/limiter blade on your FS36, which makes it the most balanced, low‑hassle option.

Only if you do mostly heavy, rough stuff where plastic blades are preferable would a PolyCut head be “better”; for general use, AutoCut 11‑2 is the sensible main head to run on your FS36.

The earlier model FS36 to mine could be a different cutter head as I did see another type it was the last image below.

It's usually best to use what Stihl recommends as it won't overload the trimmer.

Cheers
Max.

G'day,
I removed the rocker covers on both cylinders, checked the rockers for cracks, checked to see if there were bent or damaged push rods(all good). Then checked tappet gap both sets were in spec. I had couple of spare Nikki carbies so I swap over the internals and it still hunted but it ran better, then I had a thought I have had a Briggs V twin in for repairs a while ago it wasn't running right a bit like this one. So I removed the "sump" and found the " paddle" had come off the govenor shaft, replaced it new new governor shaft and it fixed the problem. But i think I will get a new carby first before I pull the engine out and strip it down.

I'd probably just weigh the front down and put a roll bar on the back.

I still like these testers but not worth it for a $50. mower.



Cheers
Max.

Good call there AVB, something is obviously bent somewhere

It's about mid sixties and is a Pope mower base.

Hi Norm,

I've had this problem on old Victa 18's there's a few ways that will work but depends how bad it's stuck. I just cut the bolts with
a hacksaw the problem here is the bolts are low grade steel so a bit of force to undo them will snap them and hammering
mushrooms them making them impossible to remove.

You can heat the bolts underneath with the oxy ,once the nuts are removed , heat then spray with crc ,heat again spray with crc
a few goes of heating and spraying crc can work to loosen the corrosion and rust.( you want the lot upside down to do this)

If you hammer the bolts put a block of wood on them and hammer one at a time

You can't hammer them that much as mentioned before they will mushroom and makes them impossible to remove.

You can drill the bolts from underneath ,I mostly have drilled from the underside just so the top can't be damaged if the drill was to slip.
I would usually cut the bolts from underneath close to the base so there is less to drill.( bolt cutters and grinder usually work)

Some engine I've got 3 bolts to move but can't get the last one to move and have to drill it from underneath .



You can cut the bolts above the base or body then arc weld the nuts underneath the base to the bolts and then see if they will
undo with the rattle gun but best to undo by hand if you don't want them to brake and any movement you get , you keep slowly
tightening then loosening backwards then forwards with crc until they come out.

Only other way I've done it is to turn the lot upside down then with the nuts removed from the bolts put white Vinegar around the
threads , you can put paper towel around the threads this will keep them wet but you will need to keep putting a little vinegar
on the paper towel every day and could take 2 weeks to loosen.

The quickest way I think if it's completely stuck is cut the bolts on the top side wire brush the threads you can get to with a brush in
a drill then arc weld the nut on close to the underside of the base ,do one at a time ,try tightening and loosening to get it to move
but look on the other side make sure it's moving otherwise it will snap the bolt, If that doesn't work you have to drill them but if you drill
from the top sometimes you only drill half way and the nut that you welded will turn ,the weld gets the heat in as well, lots of crc.

Cheers
Max.

Hi all,

I just had another look at this LPG mower and why the new carby wouldn't work well on LPG.

I didn't spend much time on it fixing the problem ,just drilled the gas fitting out a couple sizes larger and put an angled edge
on the brass inside of the carby also I had to change the throttle shaft as before I hadn't noticed where the carby
linkage fits in is slightly different on the gas carby as it was for horizontal shaft motor and I'm using the vertical shaft motor.

One extra thing I did was install a plastic fuel tap on the petrol fuel line.

Turned the bottle on and it ran well but had to adjust the lpg down so the fitting most likely is drawing LPG better now.

It ran well on petrol too, no problems on either fuel.

Instead of using the alloy fuel bowl, I've installed a metal one.

Cheers
Max.

I messaged Brisbane Cylinders Mower Specialist about this make/model and they said the supaswift/bush ranger parts will fit straight on, not the Scott bonnar/rover 45 parts

Hi Maxwestern,

Thank you for the reply.

I will order the clutch body and proceed to rebuild.

Regards,
Jim

The End Result...

The lawn was initially Double cut, and then Single cut in two directions, without using the catcher. [See pic attachment]

The reason for that is that all the clippings, still hold fertiliser from the initial application, and they will leak this back into the surface, providing more nutrients to the lawn itself.

I Backlapped my SB Model 45 - 17" [7 Blade Cylinder, using 3 pastes, starting with course, then medium, and finally fine], throughly before doing this, as it needed to be a clean and sharp cut, and the reason for that is, any bruising or damage to the couch, would leave me open to fungal diseases, such as Helminthosporium 'Helmo', or Clarireedia 'Dollar Spot'.

I can not stress enough here, that your cylinder & bottom blade need to to be in A1 condition, especially at this time of the season. The reason for this is that you need to remove the early morning 'Dew', and the best & easiest way to do that is to give your lawn a quick syringe with a hose, before the heat arrives.

My only regret in all these posts, is that I don't possess a Lawn Roller apart from the split one on my Scotty.

Merry Xmas & a Happy New Year to you all, that read this,

Regards,

mice_elf