OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Active Threads

oz post vs a third party carrier.

Sounds like it's running rich. Remove/replace the air filter and see if the problem persists. replace the spark plug while you're at it.

You have to remove the wire to prove it is not the cause of the not starting, do this for starters

Hi, I have an old 5hp massport rotahoe. Belt driven 2 speed. The brass gearbox drive cog is flogged and is locking up now. Are there any spares available for this ?

Hi all,

I haven't been playing with mowers for some time, but a recent purchase has thrust me right back into collecting some rarities.

These three Masport mowers were destined for scrap, however I managed to swoop in before they got that far, with intentions to preserve what I can of this vintage equipment.

What you're looking at in my pictures are Masport Rotacut (or Ambassador, I cannot tell the difference in my parts catalogue) mowers of the 21", self drive variety.

The bodies are of very similar construction to the traditional 18" Rotacut variety, with the addition of a self drive gearbox and axle and a 4HP Briggs and Stratton as standard. The engines have dual vertical pto shafts, with the smaller shaft driving the self drive gearbox.

In 15 years of mower collecting, this particular model has always eluded me, so I'm satisfied to have even ended up with these rough machines.

Two have had replacement engines fitted, one still has an original (to my knowledge) cream coloured engine. Masport produced machines with a run of "off white"/cream coloured 5HP motors around the 1973/4 mark, so that's the basis of my guess as to the year of manufacture on these particular old girls.

I will restore one, the other two have seen rather extensive weld repairs and most of the drive parts are corroded beyond use.

I have been struggling to attach images to this forum so I hope they're at least viewable as an attachment.

Thanks!

[img]https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/download/Number/22828/filename/IMG_7575-2.jpg[/img]

[img]https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/download/Number/22829/filename/IMG_7573-2.jpg[/img]

Sounds reasonable thanks!

We good luck with that one Luna

Hi Naz,
Not easy to get the blade carrier off without a rattle gun, without you have to get a piece of timber in there somewhere to prevent it from turning. The belt covers can be a pain to get off but you must be able to get it off without removing the motor because you would never be able to reassemble it with the new belt fitted

I have a SB45 17" that was completely rebuilt by MozPartsOz at Marion, SA, Greg is a fantastic guy, love the SB45, so simply.

However, I saw a Rover Kensington 17L in very good condition that has the 118cc Loncin 4 stroke and purchased it for $1100. That may seem a tad expensive but the decider was that it included:

1. New replacement belts
2. Dethatcher QC cartridge (new $618)
3. 10 Blade QC cartridge (new #1032)

both in VG condition.

You see, I was thinking of buying a scarifier/detatching mower and was thinking if I like the Rover/Allett Kensington 17L as much as the basically new SB45 17", I'll purchase the Allett 17" QC scarifier cartridge and sell the SB45 17".

It would hurt me to sell the SB45 but really couldn't be bothered removing the reel cutter and replacing with scarifier reel, then changing back to mower.

Am I crazy with this thinking?

Just plug the hole in the cap with silicone

Hi NormK, I posted 2 photos yesterday at 10.30am.

One photo shows the belt in the Deck pulley and the other shows the belt in the drive pulley.
Maybe you have to refresh the browser window as you have been there before.

Cheers

Steve

Regarding the complete air cleaner I found amongst the rubbish when my son was cleaning up I had better give a bit more care to it

Hi Max,

Thanks again for all the info. Very useful.

Good to know about starting on full throttle, and that the Vacuum Control Button doesn't need to have a hole.

I will buy a Standard Ring Kit and use it on the 60 PSI Motor.

I understand the original is down to 45PSI and really needs a rebore. So I might Google how to do a rebore on a 2 Stroke Victa and maybe give it a try.


I will post when I have ordered and installed the Standard Piston Ring Kit and advise what PSI I get on the 60 PSI motor.

Thanks

Harry

Yeah ,they are quick to make ,I've made car speedo cables for $!0.
and if you buy a made up one they can charge $150. at spare parts shops

Also made motor bike cables and mower cables.



I don't know exactly where you live VM so just did a quick search on cables in QLD,
so there could be some other cables like electric below etc.

https://controlconnections.com.au/about/

Cables 2 You
Address: 2/37-39 McLachlan St, Brendale QLD 4500
Website: cables2you.com.au

Cable Logic
Address: 8/6 Cessna Drive, Caboolture QLD 4510
Website: cablelogic.com.au



Queensland Wire Industries
Address: 14-16 Linde Street, Slacks Creek QLD 4127
Website: qwi.com.au

Lloyds of Cairns
Address: 25 Spence Street, Cairns QLD 4870
Website: lloydsofcairns.com.au



Cable Connectors
Address: 20/58 Daintree Drive, Redlands, QLD 4165
Website: cableconnectors.com.au
Specializes in automotive cables, Bowden cables, and other custom cable solutions.

Cables & Chains
Address: 30 Boundary Road, Darra, QLD 4076
Website: cablesandchains.com.au
Offers a variety of cable products, including Bowden cables for different applications.

The Cable Company
Address: 1155 Boundary Rd, Wacol, QLD 4076
Website: thecablecompany.com.au
Specializes in manufacturing and supplying various types of cables including Bowden cables.

Queensland Cables & Accessories
Address: 5/9-11 Murray St, Yatala QLD 4207
Website: qldcables.com.au
Provides various cable products, including custom Bowden cables.

Bendigo Cables
Address: 18/20 Brendale Dr, Brendale, QLD 4500
Website: bendigo-cables.com.au
Manufactures a range of cables, including Bowden cables for different industries.

Cablemakers Brisbane. 340 Thynne Road Morningside Brisbane QLD 4170. (07) 3177 1733 · brisbane@cablemakers.com.au.

Control Connections

129 Rainbow St, Sandgate QLD 4017



Aussie Cable Solutions
Address: 40 Neumann Rd, Capalaba QLD 4157
Website: aussiecablesolutions.com.au

Genuine Cable Company
Address: Unit 2/15 Diction Ave, Delan QLD 4871
Website: genuinecable.com.au

Cables & Tensioning Solutions
Address: Unit 1/14 Candoo St, Slacks Creek QLD 4127
Website: cablesandtensioningsolutions.com.au

Bowden Cable & Hose Co
Address: 1/10-12 Antimony St, Carole Park QLD 4300
Website: bowdencables.com.au

Auscable
Address: 45 Thompson St, Bowen Hills QLD 4006
Website: auscable.com.au

A speedometer repairer should also know who makes cables in the area.

https://www.ottoinstruments.com.au/

Hi Max,

Sorry for the late response in Brisbane and Cyclone Alfred has been a pain

Thanks for the feedback. So look like a mid1970's frame with a 84 motor they had in the shed.

Considering that, it is not going to be Sacrilegious if I put a Honda engine on this as the current engine isn't original anyway

Regards,

Mark

Good quality review this one. I've been planning to do one aswell for a while but just havnt found the time. Absolutely no content online despite how capable the unit is.


On the subject of emptying the catcher. While it doesnt have a handle at the rear of the bag like the bushranger, In the moulded plastic base there is a indent that is as far as im aware supposed to act in a similar manner to the rear handle.

A person would hit the ground from the same height in 4 to 6 seconds the Hindenburg hit the ground in around
30 seconds Norm.

The time that it took from the first signs of disaster to the bow crashing to the ground is reported as 32, 34 or 37 seconds. Since none of the newsreel cameras were filming the airship when the fire first started, the time of the start can only be estimated from various eyewitness accounts and the duration of the longest footage of the crash. One analysis by NASA's Addison Bain gives the flame front spread rate across the fabric skin as about 49 ft/s (15 m/s) at some points during the crash, which would have resulted in a total destruction time of about 16 seconds.

The flames quickly spread forward first consuming cells 1 to 9, and the rear end of the structure imploded. Almost instantly, two tanks (it is disputed whether they contained water or fuel) burst out of the hull as a result of the shock of the blast. Buoyancy was lost on the stern of the ship, and the bow lurched upwards while the ship's back broke; the falling stern stayed in trim

G'day everyone,

Warning: My method of doing this on my Model 45, requires tilting the mower backwards, so the rubber handle grips are touching the ground. Because the Spark Plug is located at the back of my engine, and if your's is in the same location, then I suggest that you drain most of your engine oil out into a container, before you do this, as this will help to prevent any hydrolocking of the piston. Remove your spark plug, and replace it with an old used one [do not connect the rubber grommet to your plug] or, alternatively, leave the aperture open [i.e. no plug in at all], and the petrol needs to be completely shut off as well.

Now then... let's suppose you are doing your regular mowing, when all of a sudden you get that dreaded 'ping' and 'thud' sound as the object hits your cylinder and bottom blade and is then dispatched into the catcher, [for this example, we will assume the foreign object is a small to medium sized stone]. Immediately shut gown your engine, and head to your normal mower maintenance area, then do the above before doing anything else. At this point, I am unsure if the above procedure is necessary if your spark plug is located at the front of your engine, so maybe someone can comment on that.

Once you have done everything as described above, tilt your mower back, so the rubber handles are touching the ground. Throughly examine your bottom blade and you will eventually find the damaged area. Now what I do here is get my lump hammer, and move one undamaged cylinder blade so that it is directly under the damaged blade area. A few mild hits with the hammer will remove the dent. I normally do this 10cm on either side of the damaged area, moving the cylinder very slightly, so that I am always hitting the bottom blade in line with the cylinder blade itself.

Eventually, you will find that you have virtually "panel beated" the damaged area completely, and then to make things even better, a through backlap using medium, then fine paste should see you back in action relatively quickly. You will very likely also have to adjust the cutting adjustment screw, usually one eighth of a turn for each side, then test your quality of cut with a piece of grass to ensure it cuts clean, with no tears or rips.

When your happy with the results, return your mower to the upright position, and ensure your mower On/Off switch is in the Off position, and if you used an old plug during this process, remove it. Then pull your recoil handle and watch for any oil that spurts from the MT plug aperture. This will free your piston from possibly hydrolocking. It may initially seem difficult to get a full revolution, but after a few attempts, it should work as normal. Then, replace your engine oil you removed earlier, making sure it is topped up to the full position. Lastly, remove the side bolt on your carby bowl, and drain it completely, then turn your petrol supply back on to flush out any impurities. When it is clean, turn off the petrol supply and replace the bolt. Now put back your original plug, after giving it a good clean, turn on your petrol supply, wait a few seconds and then start your engine.

See this post: https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/fo...809-83100-engine-problem.html#Post121016 for more detailed info.

Note: This will [or should keep you going] temporarily, but I highly recommend you get your cylinder and bottom blade ground, by a specialist, in the off growing season.

I hope that this post is of some help to you all that use cylinder mowers, and that have suffered this type of unfortunate mishap.

Cheers,

mice_elf

Thanks for your reply Max,

You are spot on when you suggest if I use what I have, it will require multiple modifications.

I like the Trident Teasing Rake, so that's the way I'll go I think. Also a new front roller package that they also offer, has attracted my attention too, and it's stainless steel.

https://www.tridentlawnmowers.com.au/product-page/front-roller-aluminium-with-bearings-axil

And also a Scott Bonnar Model 45 chain cover seal.

https://www.tridentlawnmowers.com.au/product-page/scott-bonnar-chain-cover-seal

Once again, many thanks,

Cheers,

mice_elf

Xav,
You are going along very well, glad to see you got the fan wheel off ok, they can be an issue if they haven't been taken off before

Thanks Norm and Max for your replies.
Cheers.
Maurice.

Hi xsancanin ,

It's a fairly clean looking Victa 18 Special https://www.vintagemowers.net/Victa_Specials.php

The carby is a 3F model.

There are a few manuals here for a carby rebuild and to sort out the magneto.

If Links aren't working in this part of the forum ,highlight the text and right click open link in new tab.(see pic below)

https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/109944.html

I'd file the points adjust the gap set the timing and replace the condenser ,the condenser is available on eBay .

The carby may need to be dismantled and cleaned and check the float level.

Cheers
Max.

Hi Max,
For the amount of welding vm is going to do, he would probably only use a packet of rods in his lifetime so a little ozito should do him fine. Of course people can bugger any equipment in particular cheap Chinese stuff by working the tools as if they are a commercial machine but used in a light manner as they are designed for they are fine

I like the Honda GCV160 motors Norm for the ignition coil to fit the old 2 stroke Villiers engines.

The only problem with the Honda motor is it's the one with auto choke and no throttle control but I can always swap
those parts onto this engine for throttle control.

The Subaru base looks the same as a Makita base and I've seen people put Victa Powertorque motors on them
because the top of the base is mostly flat.

Haven't seen many 2 stroke mowers thrown out for years but recently found a Rover Suzuki 2 stroke ,Victa 2 stroke,
Masport Briggs 2 stroke ,SupaSwift Briggs 2 stroke.

Cheers
Max.

Norm, I've also struck a few cases of the old switcheroo online. You order a product by the photo, only to find you get an updated product in your mail box. I recently thought I was purchasing the old type of U-shaped Briggs and Stratton throttle clamp. Instead I got the new type with the lug on top. It will still work for the older application, but you have to do a bit of modifying to suit. There are several different Briggs and Stratton clamps in existence and in fact the modern Honda one can be used. Still, you would expect to receive the same part as is shown in the photograph, but that is not always the case. These clamps are pretty easy to make for yourself if you have a bit of suitable steel lying about.