just for future reference, as I always have the diff locked for the hilly area I mow, would a Greenfield without diff lock be just as effective as one with (in locked position)? I assume it would, but....... And if so, did Greenfield make 34 inch units without diff locks?
I work the mower fairly hard because of the slopes and although the area gets more and more manicured, I still hit the odd rock or two, and have in the past broken decks. Drive failures seem to occur as per MattDT's 2019 Greenfield Fastcut Transmission overhaul (short shaft) post- stuck in forward or both forward and reverse simultaneously- hence I've had a play with rebuilding a transmission (although without the knowledge that MattDT made accessible in his post- hence a less than perfect effort). Up until now I've purchased second hand units with a few hundred hours on them and run them successfully for 4 or 5 years (I average 60-70 hours mowing per year) before I break a deck, an engine fails or the drive clags up. I then buy another. Lack of cash prevents me spending the big dollars on a new or nearly new unit, unfortunately.
Prior to discovering the wheel problem described in my post above, I had just finished the transplant of a transmission/drive unit I had rebuilt a few years ago (rebuilt meaning pulling down and replacing corks- not going to the lengths I should have) from a defunct a 20hp unit (governor failure as per my first post many years ago) into my current 13hp unit. I noticed that the main visible difference between units was the use of cuphead bolts and nuts securing bearing shells (?) to chassis in the 13hp, meaning the cut out in the clutch pulley is needed, whereas in the 20hp unit standard nuts and bolts are used, and there is no need for a notch in the pulley. I've yet to test it out, but I'm hopeful it will work long enough for me to do a proper rebuild of the removed drive, paying careful attention to MattDT's wisdom, which seems to suggest biting the bullet and spending close to a thousand dollars on new components such that I should get many years of trouble-free drive......Should you or anyone else have any knowledge of issues associated with such a transplant, please let me know.
Oh, and I'll let the forum know should my wheel stud fix not work as hoped. Otherwise you can assume the bolts welded in nicely and the wheel was reattached.
I am looking for a gearbox for an R360 Deutscher if anybody know of one kicking around Melbourne or the surrounding area. A complete mower or parts mower is fine as long as the gearbox is ok will be fine
Gday all, hoping this thread is still alive and active. I have recently picked up an AV everyman 15-inch cylinder mower. Runs really nice, although I need to fix the throttle at the carby. I see you guys are chasing part numbers etc so I will post what I have, hopefully in photos if I can figure that out.
It's good you have the governor working now ,if you weren't able to fix that it wouldn't have been worth spending more time fixing the engine.
There are also a few online repairers showing how to check the carby is cleaned out completely.
These engines idle at about 1800 rpm and you usually cut grass at 2500 to 3000 rpm so I've used mowers that it was unnecessary for the engine to idle when I've used them to cut grass ,as long as the motor isn't hunting.
Yes Stihl made it difficult on this model AMP to get the primer bulb in, good that it's running now.
I've never had a shortage of snippers from tip shops for $5. or free at the side of the road so I've never had to buy a cutting head.
I think all the FS36 Trimmers I've had ,the oldest were from the nineties ,I did see an early one online that sounds like your one.
This is what is on my FS36 AutoCut 11‑2 (4004 710 2192) not sure if this fit's the earlier model without comparing one.
Officially listed for FS36: The FS36 owner’s manual and dealer listings show the AutoCut 11‑2 (4004 710 2192) as the correct mowing head for that model and similar-era units.
Right size and weight: It is a light, semi‑automatic dual‑line head designed for small trimmers, so it suits the FS36’s power and curved shaft without overloading it. It works best with 2.0–2.4 mm line.
When it’s “about the best” For normal lawn edges, grass, and light weeds, the AutoCut 11‑2 gives a clean cut, easy bump‑feed, and uses the standard guard/limiter blade on your FS36, which makes it the most balanced, low‑hassle option.
Only if you do mostly heavy, rough stuff where plastic blades are preferable would a PolyCut head be “better”; for general use, AutoCut 11‑2 is the sensible main head to run on your FS36.
The earlier model FS36 to mine could be a different cutter head as I did see another type it was the last image below.
It's usually best to use what Stihl recommends as it won't overload the trimmer.
Hi, just got this Bonnar. Not sure about it. Seems quite old and different from a lot I see. E.g. it has 3 independent front wooden rollers and is belt driver, not chain. If anyone can tell me anything about it that'd be great. Serial number 42683
G'day, I removed the rocker covers on both cylinders, checked the rockers for cracks, checked to see if there were bent or damaged push rods(all good). Then checked tappet gap both sets were in spec. I had couple of spare Nikki carbies so I swap over the internals and it still hunted but it ran better, then I had a thought I have had a Briggs V twin in for repairs a while ago it wasn't running right a bit like this one. So I removed the "sump" and found the " paddle" had come off the govenor shaft, replaced it new new governor shaft and it fixed the problem. But i think I will get a new carby first before I pull the engine out and strip it down.
I've had this problem on old Victa 18's there's a few ways that will work but depends how bad it's stuck. I just cut the bolts with a hacksaw the problem here is the bolts are low grade steel so a bit of force to undo them will snap them and hammering mushrooms them making them impossible to remove.
You can heat the bolts underneath with the oxy ,once the nuts are removed , heat then spray with crc ,heat again spray with crc a few goes of heating and spraying crc can work to loosen the corrosion and rust.( you want the lot upside down to do this)
If you hammer the bolts put a block of wood on them and hammer one at a time
You can't hammer them that much as mentioned before they will mushroom and makes them impossible to remove.
You can drill the bolts from underneath ,I mostly have drilled from the underside just so the top can't be damaged if the drill was to slip. I would usually cut the bolts from underneath close to the base so there is less to drill.( bolt cutters and grinder usually work)
Some engine I've got 3 bolts to move but can't get the last one to move and have to drill it from underneath .
You can cut the bolts above the base or body then arc weld the nuts underneath the base to the bolts and then see if they will undo with the rattle gun but best to undo by hand if you don't want them to brake and any movement you get , you keep slowly tightening then loosening backwards then forwards with crc until they come out.
Only other way I've done it is to turn the lot upside down then with the nuts removed from the bolts put white Vinegar around the threads , you can put paper towel around the threads this will keep them wet but you will need to keep putting a little vinegar on the paper towel every day and could take 2 weeks to loosen.
The quickest way I think if it's completely stuck is cut the bolts on the top side wire brush the threads you can get to with a brush in a drill then arc weld the nut on close to the underside of the base ,do one at a time ,try tightening and loosening to get it to move but look on the other side make sure it's moving otherwise it will snap the bolt, If that doesn't work you have to drill them but if you drill from the top sometimes you only drill half way and the nut that you welded will turn ,the weld gets the heat in as well, lots of crc.
I just had another look at this LPG mower and why the new carby wouldn't work well on LPG.
I didn't spend much time on it fixing the problem ,just drilled the gas fitting out a couple sizes larger and put an angled edge on the brass inside of the carby also I had to change the throttle shaft as before I hadn't noticed where the carby linkage fits in is slightly different on the gas carby as it was for horizontal shaft motor and I'm using the vertical shaft motor.
One extra thing I did was install a plastic fuel tap on the petrol fuel line.
Turned the bottle on and it ran well but had to adjust the lpg down so the fitting most likely is drawing LPG better now.
It ran well on petrol too, no problems on either fuel.
Instead of using the alloy fuel bowl, I've installed a metal one.
I just brought one of these off market place on Tuesday, only $200 runs really well. Only got about 60sqm of lawn, hopefully it'll do the job.
I messaged Brisbane Cylinders Mower Specialist about this make/model and they said the supaswift/bush ranger parts will fit straight on, not the Scott bonnar/rover 45 parts
The lawn was initially Double cut, and then Single cut in two directions, without using the catcher. [See pic attachment]
The reason for that is that all the clippings, still hold fertiliser from the initial application, and they will leak this back into the surface, providing more nutrients to the lawn itself.
I Backlapped my SB Model 45 - 17" [7 Blade Cylinder, using 3 pastes, starting with course, then medium, and finally fine], throughly before doing this, as it needed to be a clean and sharp cut, and the reason for that is, any bruising or damage to the couch, would leave me open to fungal diseases, such as Helminthosporium'Helmo', or Clarireedia'Dollar Spot'.
I can not stress enough here, that your cylinder & bottom blade need to to be in A1 condition, especially at this time of the season. The reason for this is that you need to remove the early morning 'Dew', and the best & easiest way to do that is to give your lawn a quick syringe with a hose, before the heat arrives.
My only regret in all these posts, is that I don't possess a Lawn Roller apart from the split one on my Scotty.
Merry Xmas & a Happy New Year to you all, that read this,
Hallelujah ! The generator is now running perfectly without me needing to buy any new parts. Managed to clean out all the passages in the carbie, made a few gaskets, got the majority of the crud out of the fuel tank and put a filter in the fuel pipe to catch whatever comes through in future.
Thank you to Max and AVB for finding a possible replacement carb for me. The one Max suggested looked good enough but AVB's one is identical to what I have.
Between Max, AVB and Norm I reckon any problem with mechanical devices could be solved. I am very grateful to be able to ask questions and receive such excellent advice on ODK
Well, some good news. After sending my Rover Ranger friction plate to W.A. and 5 months of waiting, it finally arrived back today. We have an old-fashioned brake service company in town, and they knew where to send it.
They said it might take while and they were right. They had to get one of the older employes to show to the younger guys how to bond a new surface onto it. $150 but it looks great, like a bought one.
Body got thrown out over 45 years ago Max because I wanted a catcher. I picked up a pope 4 stroke with a rod through the side but it had a side catcher. I fitted the Hurricane motor to it and I used that mower for years until I decided a rear catcher would be so much easier to use
Looks like an alloy head on the Hurricane 2 stroke motor and the starter pulley looks to be the later one so I would say it's late fifties to early sixties.
No information has survived on these rare Gardener mowers apart from what is on ODK.
People Who Might Know:
Old Mower Shop Workers: , people who worked in small mower shops in the 1950s and 1960s could be some of the few who remember the Gardener 18, especially if it was sold locally or regionally. It’s possible that even some of the shop owners or repair technicians who handled them might recall specific details, especially if the mower had quirks or was unusual for its time.
Realistically, though, anyone who was actively working in a mower shop in 1960 would likely be at least in their 90s today. So, finding someone with direct knowledge is rare, and even if you do, their memory of obscure models might be a bit hazy.
What has already been exhausted looking for info on this model. Online Forums/Groups Vintage Mower Restoration Experts: Old Manuals/Ads
Did a job of work for a nearby rural property owner and got to chatting about how he got on during a 30 hour power outage we had a couple of weeks ago, outages are a frequent occurence around here but not often for such a long time. I was telling him we got by with just a small 240V AC inverter running off 12V DC batteries to charge our phones and rechargeable AA and AAA batteries, run a few 240 V appliances and keep a few lights on, can't use it to run the fridge or freezer, it is too small. He told me they just tough it out and mentioned he used to have a generator but it stopped working because of carbie probs.........
Today I picked up his generator and he also had an old mower sitting there waiting to be sent to the tip, also with carbie problems and allegedly in need of a new piston and rings. He had since bought a ride-on and another Honda mower.
So, after some minimal fiddling, cleaned air filter and a new sparkplug the mower runs superbly. Did half an hour mowing, drained jet black oil and replaced with fresh oil.
The generator is an Xceed EX200G. The fuel tank was full of rusty crud as was the fuel tap and the needle valve needed brute force to remove but I got it running nicely by filling the float bowl with fresh fuel. May need a new carbie.
I hadn't seen a Victa with a Tecumseh 4 stroke motor before. I have had some Tecumseh 2 strokes.
Always worth a chat when visiting rural properties.
Final post here to show Cox differential on the 25K96 model,circa 1996-8.Took her apart as I wasn't sure if it was lubed up and there's no way of telling,there was HT grease there but the gears teeth were dry so topped it off with Veedol semi liquid grease.Everything looked good in there,2 bushes,one bronze and one small sealed bearing,nice solid unit.So I can rest easy now knowing that's lubed.
