Well there you go Bumps that is correct quite a few years ago when we started modifying the cams so we could control the revs. I still fight those carbs because the float needles cause me so much greif. But when they work they are fantastic, but when they don't they kill me I will pm you
As I haven't tried this its just a suggestion. . I haven't looked at the videos yet but there are are few on youtube.
How to Fuse BMX Tires to Your Mower Wheels
To make sure the Sikaflex bonds permanently and handles the torque of the self-drive system, follow these steps:
Prep the Mower Wheel (Crucial Step):
Smooth plastic or old rubber is Sikaflex’s enemy.
Take some coarse sandpaper (around 40 or 60 grit) and scuff the absolute life out of the mower wheel's plastic surface. You want deep scratches for the adhesive to bite into.
Clean it thoroughly with mineral turps, wax & grease remover, or rubbing alcohol to get rid of all dirt and grease.
Prep the BMX Tyre: or mountain bike Tyre
Cut the tyre to the exact width of your mower wheel.
Cut the wire bead (the hard metal wire along the inside edge of the tire) off completely. You only want the flat, flexible tread section.
Cut it to length so it wraps perfectly around the circumference of the wheel with a tiny bit of tension.
Scuff the inside/underside of the tire with sandpaper as well, and clean it.
Applying the Sikaflex:
Use Sikaflex-291 or Sikaflex-11FC (polyurethane adhesive). Do not use standard silicone, as it lacks the structural strength required for a drive wheel.
Apply a generous, even layer to the mower wheel.
Clamping and Curing:
Wrap the cut tire tread tightly around the wheel.
To hold it in place while it cures, wrap the outside tightly with multiple layers of heavy-duty zip ties, duct tape, or heavy rubber bands.
Leave it alone for at least 24 to 48 hours. Polyurethane adhesives need time to cure completely, especially when sandwiched between rubber and plastic.
💡 Quick Tip: When you cut the tyre to length, try to cut it at a 40-to-45-degree angle (a scarf joint) rather than a straight vertical cut. When the wheel rotates forward, ensure the top flap of the joint points away from the direction of travel so the ground doesn't catch the lip and peel it back.
The Clearance Trap BMX tyres add about 5mm to 10mm of extra height (thickness) to your wheel. Before you glue anything, wrap the loose tyre around the wheel and test it on the mower. Make sure the new, thicker tyre doesn't rub against:
Yes, those are generally called radial shaft seals or sometimes wheel dust seals, and most bearing supply shops can usually match them if you bring the old one in and measure the ID, OD, and width accurately with calipers. A lot of mower manufacturers never sold them separately because they were considered part of the wheel assembly, which is why they can be frustrating to source individually. Since the Victa and Rover/MTD versions differ slightly in OD and thickness, your best bet may actually be an industrial seal supplier rather than mower parts dealers, because they can often cross-match generic seals that fit the axle and bearings correctly without needing to grind them down.
Radial shaft seals and wheel dust seals are often easier to source through an tbs industrial bearings and seals supplier than through mower dealers, especially for older Rover, MTD, and Victa models where the original parts were bundled with complete wheel assemblies. If you can measure the axle size, outer diameter, and thickness accurately, most Railway bearing shops can usually match a generic seal that fits properly without needing to modify or grind it down.
Thx Norm, appreciate the warm reply. Guess I should have waited for a reply from Forum members before rushing to make the purchase. ... Patience is a virtue, pit I'm short on it.
I ended up getting a cheap aluminium gearshift lever to replace the height adjustment stick. It looks great and is a lot stronger than the old plastic one. I will have to give Temu a go!
China does seem to be getting better at manufacturing quality parts and machines. I suspect that might be why the prices keep going up. Before long it will no longer by economical to get things made there and as a result some manufacturing will return to Australia. I suspect we might be already seeing this trend with the return of Victa?
