OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Reel-Type Mowers SB 45 adjustments and restoration

Hi Chris, good man, glad you got it all sorted...thanks for the update...

Well gentlemen I finally got the nuts off - Air gun was the only way as they were both very tight.

Both tighten clockwise and loosen counter-clockwise.

Now ready to find a sandblaster. The stripper I have been using is having little effect on the SB paint that hasn't peeled.

Here is a pic of the bits with the tools I have used. (Note the hammer).



Reel and sole plate being sharpened at the moment.


dave

Hi Dave, all looking good so far, great to see you got he nuts off with no hassle, mate.
Don't forget to remove the cutter clutch handle assembly before going to the blasters, and get the chassis primed as soon as you can after....you will be amazed how quickly the surface rust will form once sand blasted.
Some more pics please as you go along.

Very, very neat.

Here is a photo of the current shambles on my garage floor

Chris

I've never liked working on the floor - bending down gets old even faster than I do. I recommend lifting the mower up onto the bench and working on it there. It's way easier to see what you are doing. Yes, you often have to move it when you need to make a part or disassemble something in the course of a project, but with a little planning, that will only happen at the end of a stage of the process. For example, you start with the mower on the bench (I usually take the handle off, so I can rotate the whole mower without anything hitting the wall) and strip it to the extent necessary. Then you have an engine and a frame. Put the engine aside, and get the frame up to scratch, on the bench. (If you have to make parts, you put the frame on the floor while you do so.) Then put the frame aside, and work on the engine. When it's finished and you're ready to run it, put the frame on the bench, fit the engine, and take the assembled mower outside where you can run it safely. Personally I don't run engines unless they are bolted to their frames, it can get too exciting.

I normally work on my bench or some sort of dolly but at present I'm also rebuilding another engine and while I wait for parts it occupies pride of place on my rather small bench.

The floor is clean, or was until I began dislodging 35yrs + of dirt and grime from the base of the mower, and so far, my back isn't complaining - but your point is taken.

Before I clean up and take stock of the parts that I need to order, I have a question.

How do you get the cutter clutch assembly off the drive shaft?

Chris

Hi Chris, Re: grumpy's last post about lifting a Scottie 45 onto a work bench....he omitted to say, never attempt it on your own...you will do your back an injury...these machines are seriously heavy...170lbs or 73Kg or on the old scale 1.51 cwt (hundredweight)
My advice is to make a workbench using sturdy saw horses, some strong 5 ply or equivalent, with a ramp and a stop... and drive it on under its own power...see my post..Click HERE or get a mate to help you get it up on a bench.
Just remember that safety is the first priority and we actively promote workshop safety here at Outdoorking.
Keep safe guys,

I agree with Deejay, it is unwise if not impractical to lift an SB 45 without using a hoist. When I set up my machine shop I made a little die truck because I had no intention of carrying the 12" rotary table around to put it on the milling machine, and I could foresee a time when I would no longer want to carry the 14" chuck to the lathe. And both of those items are stored at the height they'll be used at, they aren't lifted into position. If you are fairly fit you might lift rotary mowers onto the bench by hand (I do, but I complain a bit if they are Hondas) but when it gets over say 50kg that has to be lifted from floor level, in my opinion it is unprofessional to do it by hand. Realistically, I don't believe any well set up workshop would have people hand-lifting more than 35 kg as a normal operation. It isn't especially difficult to set up a pivoted beam over the bench, and sling a little ratchet hoist on the end of it. The hoist can be stored under the bench in between lifts. I don't do that currently, because I don't work on reel-type mowers, but if I ever take an interest in heavy mowers, I'll set up a hoist before I start work on one.

It isn't clever and masculine to hurt yourself lifting heavy weights off the floor, it is lazy and/or dumb.

Thanks for all of the advice - I'll be careful.

Figured out how to remove the engine half of the clutch - the threaded stud is 'captive'. Once I undid the nut till it was flush with the end of the thread, a couple of gentle taps drove it in and the housing was freed.

My only real problem at present is rusted in Woodruff keys - lots of soaking and gentle tapping will release them I'm sure

I'll stop hogging DaveC's thread now.

Chris

Chris, with the Woodruff keys, the Penetrene takes slightly longer to reach the bottom because they are deeper than straight keys. I like to tap gently on one end so the key tilts. That tells me that it is free, and also makes it easier to grab the key with pliers.

Thanks Chris, and in the spirit of keeping good archives here...I think it's a good idea if you and Dave both have separate threads...you both have similar machines but different questions; it gets hard for us, when threads get confused.
If you are going to restore your machine to original, post in the Restoration and Customising forum; if it is a renovation or just repairs, post in the Repairs and Maintenance forum.

I think it is prudent here for me to mention now, that you both consider subscribing to the Parts Lists and Manuals area for the Scott Bonnar Model 45 manuals...this will give you the nitty-gritty of how all the parts fit together...and answer a few questions yourselves, before you have to ask ....

Also , don't hesitate to trawl through the Scott Bonnar posts in the various major forums....you will find answers to most all of your questions posted there...This saves us from repeating ourselves...and the reason we are trying to keep good archives.

You will learn all about your machine and gain a lot of satisfaction of "doing it yourself"....we are here to help...but we encourage our members to "learn new things" if you get my drift.
Here endeth the lesson!

I claim this thread

Just a quick update. After much wailing and gnashing of teeth, I have finally found a sand blasting service and the fellow will pick up my bits next Tuesday (It's Friday, April 20, 2012 now).

The reel sharpening should be ready by the middle of next week so it is starting to come together.

Oh, I will be reassembling the little beauty on a bench.

I have purchased the White Knight Alpine green Hammered Finish, and although it looks considerably lighter than the original SB finish, I can't see a problem with that.

I have one question. The engine is currently white.
Is it unacceptable to the purists to paint it black with engine enamel?

Dave

Dave, the colour of the engine is one of the standard clues to its age and type. If you are trying to preserve originality (as distinct from building a machine that pleases you) you should stick with the original engine colour. Incidentally black Briggs engines came later than white ones, so if you paint it black you might offend both breeds of enthusiasts: those who value it for being old, because you're making it non-original, and those who value it for being less old, because of the mutton-dressed-as-lamb implications.

Hi Grumpy, the engine is a Tecumseh H30 and when I first showed a photo of it on this thread, no-one seemed to recognise it because of its colour.

Since I don't particularly like the white, I may be able to get away with painting it black. Besides, I've already bought the paint.


Dave

Sorry Dave, I'd forgotten which engine you were talking about, and thought you were referring to a white Briggs, which would be a classic from the 1970s (black ones tend to be 1980s, and therefore relatively undistinguished).

Tecumseh engines are not actually popular, their reputation was not good and the company went to its reward about half a dozen years ago. However the engines will eventually be collectible, and their unpopularity will make them rarer and more sought after. Think of the 1940s and 1950s British engines: an awesomely crummy load of unpleasant material, but avidly collected these days.

If you look forward 50 years, your white Tecumseh may be as sought after as a British engine of similar age. If you don't want to wait that long, paint it purple if you want to, it's your engine, and currently of very little collector interest. I don't think anyone would be accusing you of vandalism in the next couple of decades at least. After that perhaps they will, but you may not care.

At 62 I can't see myself hanging around long enough to realise a profit!!

I bought it to build myself a putting green in the front lawn and just got carried away with the restoration - Addictive isn't it?

Still a lot of work to do there as you can see from the photo.



Will top dress this now that I have used the rotary to decimate it.

Dave

Looks marvellous by my standards, Dave, it covers the dirt and everything.

There is no limit to how much work you can put into a hobby. If you are working full-time, it is as dangerous as alcoholism. If you are retired, it is way more constructive than playing golf or sitting in a bingo hall.

The green will come up a treat if top dressed and fertilized just before spring...well watered and hopefully some rain on it...it will be lush!...don't forget to mow it in different directions each time you mow...this will encourage the grass sward to intertwine and also keep it flat...just perfect for putting.....

Hi all, this is just an update on my restoration project.


I got the mower back together but had these bits left over - Anyone know where they go?

Just Kidding!! I finally received the chassis, deflector and chain case cover back from the sand blaster and I am happy with the result. Have primed them and given them first coat of hammertone





More in a week or so.

Dave

Hi Dave, it is looking great thus far mate... well done! Can't wait to see the next pics.

I am having trouble fitting the clutch plate onto the bearing.

It is a very tight fit and I can only get it about half way onto the bearing. I have had to use a puller to get it back off.

I've cleaned both the bearing and the clutch plate but this hasn't helped. Is there a trick to getting it back on without using a hammer?

Dave

Can you post a couple of pictures, Dave, to show us exactly which parts and what is happening? That way we have a context that will make sense in the archives. Also, more of our SB45 people will take a look and potentially answer.

Thanks Grumpy.


The two items I am referring to.


This photo shows the plate being placed on the bearing.
I expect it has to be tight but I can't get it on all the way.
In the photo it appears to be going on at an angle but I have tried ensuring it is straight when putting it on.
Dave

So, there is a lathe-bored recess in the sprocket, which is also the drum drive clutch, and the outer ring of the bearing which supports those parts is intended to fit into that recess?

First, be very sure there is no raised burr on the entry to the sprocket recess. It is usual to run a file or deburring tool around the corner surface first. Clean the bore, and the outer ring of the bearing. The insertion would normally be made by using a press, which holds the parts square and pushes in a very controlled way. There will not be much force involved when you get the parts clean, square to each other, and burr-free. It isn't possible to use much force because you are necessarily fitting the outer ring of a ballrace into a housing by pushing on the inner ring - a process that would turn the bearing manufacturer apopletic, but is probably the only way it can be done in this case.

If you have a decent-sized bench vice, it will make a good substitute for a press, both in holding the parts square and applying all the force you need (with a great deal to spare). The worst thing to use is a metal hammer, since it brinells both races of the bearing. A rubber hammer is acceptable for applying force, but it does nothing to help you get the parts square.

Ah. So my initial error was to remove this plate from the bearing when I took the main sprocket off. I used the puller to take both off at the same time.

Thanks for your reply. Very helpful.

Dave

Hi Dave, did you replace this bearing or is it the original that came with the machine?

It's the original bearing.

I am trying to find a place that might have a press to do the job.

Now I have snapped a bolt off that secures the chain case cover. It has snapped off right inside the threaded pin that is welded to the chassis.

I'll try to drill it out and use a left handed tap to help remove it, but no doubt it will be hardened steel.

I'll need a replacement bolt eventually and at this point in time I don't know the thread size of the original.

More fun. It seems it was going back together too easily.

Dave

Hi Dave, the chain case cover is secured by 2 screws, not bolts; they are just nipped up firmly with a straight edge screwdriver. I can't understand how you broke it off...

Re: the bearing....did you check it for serviceability before you press in back into place...if in doubt...replace it now, as they are cheap and you wont have the bother of trying to get it out if it fails....If it is the original bearing as you say...it will have done a lot of work by now.

I seem to be shadowing you with this job as I've just replaced this bearing as the old one was worn out.

After checking the housing for burrs, I gently drove the bearing into it using a small amount of bearing grease in the housing, a large enough socket to just fit over the outer bearing casing and a rubber hammer. It went in without much drama.

I then carefully fitted the drive shaft through the bearing centre and gently tapped it home - once again, all OK.

I have access to a 20tn press but usually only use it to remove and refit bushes to car suspensions etc.

Chris

They are bolts on mine, not screws. I noticed in Chris' photos that he too has bolts.

I drilled it out and tapped it with M8 tap. Have replaced original bolt with an M8 bolt. All fine now.

I might take the lot down to the mower man and buy a new bearing - He might be able to press it on for me.

My $240 mower is now heading towards price of a new one, but this is more fun.

Blades are now sharp but even following the excellent u-tube demo I can't get it to cut paper.

Dave