OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Reel-Type Mowers Double SB45 restoration

On the 20" i'm going to need a new deflector plate as the current one is rusted quite badly. Would it be common to get a replacement made up or are there spares floating around for sale?

Also, I've seen some restorations where the sole plate has been blasted and powder coated. Is it ok to remove the bedknife for this to happen? SHould I watch out for anything when removing the bedknife? Should I be searching the forum to answer these questions?

Hi mikeo,

As far as parts are concerned for a 20 inch machine and all other sizes as well there is absolutely no new panel work available.

Also secondhand 20 inch stuff is really rare, but most stuff is common to the 17 inch machine apart from the reel, soleplate, handle bars, grass deflector and chassis along with front and rear roller assemblies. On the earlier 20 inch machines the reel bearing carries are a different size but this is not the case with yours as it's a very late one.

I must admit that it wouldn't be very hard for a sheet metal shop to make up a replacement if you can supply a original as a template.

As far as the sole plate is concerned as you are going to resharpen the reel and bed knife you could remove the bed knife and give it and the sole plate to your machinist to reassemble but and I say this with some warning, why would you even consider powder coating the sole plate as powder coating is Hygroscopic and will allow moisture in between the powder coating and the cast iron. It won't take long for it to become rusty under the cosmetic surface. Many of the later Kermit Green and Red Rovers have been turned into rust buckets as they were Powder coated and not painted at the Rover factory in Brisbane. No powder coating was ever done at the Thebarton factory in Adelaide.

Also as far as removing the sole plate, I would leave it in place for / while the rail repairs are being done as it's part of the structural integrity of the chassis.

Hope I've given you some insight as to what you are asking.

Cheers,
BB

My strong advise would be to paint it using the same Hammertone as the body panels and chassis etc. as that's how it was from the beginning.

was thinking of the powder coat as was done on this build https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=38803&page=1
if that was painted then i stand corrected. not favouring a particular way, just going with what has done before.

Yes that was powder coated as was the reel. As soon as the reels gets machined then that's when the moisture gets in between the metal and the coating from the freshly exposed section. In no time the coating will start to peel and the rest is history I guess.
Paint is far more durable and chemically / mechanically it's a far better bond. Powder coating is done for the sake of ease and also looking shiny on the showroom floor, but that's about it.

Cheers,
BB

is there much of a demand for genuine 20" parts if this example was to be split up? or is that a bad idea?

major parts:
reel
sole plate
rollers
chassis
front roller
drive shafts

mikeo, physically isolating the engine vibrations from the deck requires that the four engine mounting bolts have clearance in the mounting holes in the crankcase. If the bolts touch the crankcase that is described as a "grounded out" engine mounting. If you've ever driven a car in which that has happened, you'll remember the experience.

Hi to grumpy, BB and Mikeo,
This thread is jumping all over the place...the topic is about the restoration of 2 SB 45's.
If you wish to discuss the cracking issue of the rails, maybe a new thread in "Tech Talk" would be the way to go.

For Mikeo, please don't attempt to remove the bedknife blade from the soleplate yourself....the engineer/machinist will do that if it needs to be replaced and has the tools for the job. The soleplate is cast iron and many $$$ to replace....if you can find one....they can crack very easily

Hello mikeo,

I will say that I am here on this forum for the sole purpose of helping people preserve Australia's mowing history and not destroying it in the name of greed. If you choose to go down that path, not will I just be very disappointed but my help on this thread will automatically cease.

This machine you have is very much a superb example of the 20 inch "Last Of The Australians" and repair work to get over the frame issue is very much a walk in the park for an experienced tradesman and from that point on what you have will be easy to work with and you should be able to come up with the same result as the mower depicted in the thread you highlighted.

If you choose not to go ahead please leave the mower complete and re-offer it to someone that will do to the machine what it so rightly deserves as there are many people out there that would jump at the chance and envy the position you are in, especially considering what you paid for each in the first instance.

BB.

I support BB's point. During the long life of any rare or historically important object its continued existence requires goodwill from every single custodian, while its destruction only requires brief ownership by one Philistine. I do not dispute the right of every owner to do what he or she will to their own property, but what would most people think of a rich Texan who bought the Mona Lisa and had it painted over with his wife's face?

That mower is remarkably original, and in that condition, rather rare. Furthermore it is not some unusable antique preserved only because of its quaint crudity, like something you might find in a science museum. It is a machine that had a clever and fine design, which remains relevant and usable 35 years later. Personally I would never collect anything - it is far too passive a hobby to suit me - but I do value good design, as I think do most Outdoorking members.

If you do not want the mower, why not sell it as a complete machine? I am not suggesting you dispose of it for less than its market value, of course - it is easy to establish that on ebay or by some other process if you prefer.

very convincing arguments you guys put forward.

progress so far: Cracks repaired. parts ordered. will get off to sandblasters this week. in going with a new b&s engine for this one and the throttle motor mounted, i decided to weld up the throttle mount holes(plus 2 other retrofitted holes) on the bars for a cleaner look.

going to go a re-chrome on the handle bars and the clutch handle and was thinking of chroming the front roller just for some fancy(or gloss black).

is there a complete fastener list floating around on the forum or have people had success in cleaning up and polishing original bolts? Will have to get some replacement bolts as 2 of the sole plate bolts were cross threaded.

Hi mikeo,

Well that was done all rather quickly.

Can you please supply some photos of the rails so that we can archive them for future usage as this topic is becoming more common than you think.

Also can you put up progress photos as you go so that all of us can refer to them just like the thread you highlighted a few posts back now ?

I'd be interested how much the re-chroming is going to cost as it's a lot more expensive now than it used to be.

As far as nuts and bolts are concerned I don't think we have that on file as that was never made available by SB at any stage. The only thing I can suggest is that you take a sample to an outlet like Coventry Fasteners, United Fasteners etc. and they'll match it up pretty close to your originals.

BTW. we are all glad you've decided to proceed with the project. I'm sure it will be a fine example when completed.

Cheers,
BB

re-chroming the bars in their not pitted from rust condition is going to be around the $200 mark. still thinking about that one

here is a pic of separated bits to go off to sandblasting. the engine mount cracks were repaired in the standard way(groove and tig weld). Would still like to make an improvement to the mount bolts in the future, maybe on the 17" just focusing efforts on one machine at a time so lucky number 20" gets to go first.

Hi Mikeo,
Great progress on the mower. I have purchased decent replacement deflectors and catchers over here in the West from Needham sheetmetal. They have all the patterns. Bit far from you but may be a good starting point in finding someone local. I have also reinforced my 20" twin rail with some steel gussets in the hope it will offer more protection from the issues already discussed in this thread. My opinion is it must be of some help as I intend to keep the mower and use it as a working example. I have posted a pic of my repair on my current thread. On another note I have completed all work on my mower myself (less the welding-done by a good mate) including removing the bottom blade. If you take care and time anything is possible so enjoy your project. I look forward to your future posts.
Mr Jones.

Hi mikeo,

Firstly thank you for that photo.

Now am I correct in my observation regarding the rear rail that it is slightly sagged due to heat ?
I have just had a friend of mine drop off his chassis that has been professionally welded and it also has a slight amount of sag towards the middle. It will have to have the engine slightly shimmed up on the two centre mounting points so as to perfectly align it to the clutch.

I'm starting to feel that a gusset should be welded in place on the underside before all the fractures are welded up. This would reduce sag or twist in the rail. Again a pro would know this I'd say.

Please run a straight edge along the top of the rail and see if there is any gap between the straight edge and the rail in the middle area and let us know.

Cheers,
BB

Thanks Mr. Jones. I'll pop over to your thread and check it out.

I thought the the rails were sagged too in the middle at first glance and i quickly ran a straight edge along it to find maybe a 1-2mm drop but looked more like a loss of material and paint due to grinding back welds flat. it will be a test to see how it pulls up with engine bolts tightened up and checking alignment with clutch.

had another quote on the chrome at $150 plus gst so am getting lower. long lead times on the job though due to a high number of vehicle restorations it seems. One plater had 5 months of work booked in

I managed to find some hammerite hammer finish paint in the deep green that had been used previously in another restore thread. reel and bedknife are being done in delicious red.

I found a fella near me that is making some replica catchers. i am going to propose to him to fab me up a new deflector. the 20" deflector still has the top and bottom mounting brackets on it so should be able to recover those for re-use. also have the deflector on the 17" in VGC to use as a template.

I have the original 20" catcher with pressed side plates. the bottom is rusted out and its fairly dented but would really like to have a go at repairing it before using a replica as i like the side plates much better. i'll see what the expert says

is this what all solid decks look like underneath in terms of the engine mounting bolt plates? or have these been retro-fitted in this case?


thats very similar to what i was envisioning for my repair

also Mr. Jones, can i ask how you achieved the polished finish on the front roller of your 17" rebuild? is it a polish and clear coat?

Hi mikeo,

I must admit that I'd not run the risk of using the engine block to pull the rail up as it's made of die cast which isn't that strong especially when there's a constant stress load put on it and also vibration. I would shim it up instead as that's less strain on all components.

I must admit that I like the following method of shoe horning that folded up section into the underneath of the rail and what's also important is the way the threaded nuts have been stitched into the folded gusset so as to strengthen the actual mount point better than original.



The only downside to this is that it's a rust trap with ramifications to appear later on.

Cheers,
BB

Easy Mikeo, Its a brand new roller and end caps purchased locally. No secrets here.

Sandblasted completed. Painting is 99% done now. Waiting for that to dry nice and hard. Have been polishing nuts...........and bolts, and springs, handlebars. Got some new stickers. Waiting on some end caps, grips and the engine. Reel is off getting sharpened still. Bit cloudy up here so photos dont do the paint colour justice. such a cool colour, deeeeep. corona box full of small painted parts. running out of room very quickly.

assembly has begun. rear roller is complete and in frame.

Starting to look good! If you don't mind me asking....how much was it to sharpen the reel and bed knife? I need to do the same. Also, does anyone here in WA know where to get this done and at a reasonable price?

Going to disassemble my SB45 soon and check to see what needs replacing and what has to be repaired. I know for sure, that the clutch is trashed and must be replaced.

I use Armadale Mowers in Champion Drive, Armadale. They do a good job and I can't remember what I paid but they are just aground the corner from me. They also stock most S.B parts

My reel and bedknife sandblasted/painted/sharpened incl postage return was $195. I think you have to PM if you want the details of the place.

20" all done. ready for another 38 years of service.

That's sweet, well done! Mine's never going to look like that.

Bet you could also sell that for a pretty penny.

It is going to be sold, I really thought about keeping it but its just too big for my place. It just looked so good next to the fair condition 17" I also have. My 17" machine will be next job. Will be hard actually using a restored machine for lawn duties though. Just to get the 20" onto the front lawn for photos involved laying down a path of foam camping floor mats and getting the missus to help lift and carry It would be heartbreaking to damage or scuff the paint after all the effort to get it perfect.

Hi Mikeo,

Congratulations are definitely in order on the completion of this one.

It's certainly turned out to be much better than parting it out hasn't it. A lovely result indeed.

May I ask a couple of questions ?

Firstly why did you do the late 1960's colour scheme and decals on it opposed to the late 1970's which the machine actually is ?

Also, did you purchase the catcher from Jason (SB Obsession)?

Cheers,
BB