OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Victa Two Stroke Engines Flood rescue

Just picked up a fairly late model victa this arvo(freebie) that had been for a paddle in one of Brisbane's latest sun showers.The gentleman said it has been for a swim so the first thing I have done is pull the plug and gave it a few pulls and there was water in the cylinder,now I want to strip the engine down for inspection.Is removing the starter and head enough(and fuel system) to give a clean out or should I strip it to a bare block and inspect everything?I have intentions of moving the mower on so I don't want anything dodgey with my name on it.

Is it two stroke or four stroke?
How much water was in it?
Is it really worth it?
Pictures.Pictures would be good and we could see how bad.
I guess if your going to use and or want a good mower then everything needs to be checked there could have been all sorts of bad things in the water.There could also be rust inside it already water in an engines needs to be done fast as it can and will rust up fast.

Yeah sorry about the lack of info but I think it'll be worth it.I'm new to the fixing mower thing and it is a reflex action on thinking victa = 2stroke.But anyway Its a 2 stroke 160 powertorque.Not much water came out i'd say 50ml at most and it was a tad milky probably from mixing with oil off the barrel.It didnnt have any look of rust at all, I think I have got on to it quick enough that is why I want to strip it down straight away.I'll take the starter off in the morning and take some pics.

I thought I'd pop up a quick pic of the mower I know it's not of the internals but if the engine turns out to be ok I think it'll scrub up a treat, hence I dont realy want to think about using it for parts just yet

Take the starter off and give it a good clean out, compressed air and a rag to mop up the mess. Remove the plug and compressed air again and vice versa til it's all dry. Remove the fuel tank and carby and a good dry out there too. Add fresh fuel and fire it up. Run it for about half an hour(ie. mow you lawn) to ensure all water has been removed/evaporated. It'll be good to go after that.

Thanks bigted I got a bit anxious and pulled it apart early this morning before checking this post.
It's not pretty but not bad news I think.The bore is in pretty good shape from what I can see,I will pull the piston out to check that it has no serious problems hiding.I will have to make a tool to remove the crank so it'll always come in handy cause this won't be the last time I will remove a piston I'm sure.Should I give it a quick hone to be safe???and also I am on a bit of a tight budget so are those cylinder hones from supercheap any good or are the a waste of time.also if I give it a light hone do I need new rings or will the old ones be ok?(providing they are in good shape)

Wow you are to quick and keen.I would have just ragged the bottom end clean with a rag as Bigted said then run it for a while would have worked really well,but you went all the way. Personally I wouldn't even worry about removing the piston.These engines really aren't worth that kind of time.If you had the Australian made power-torque I'd back you up on that,but if you must you must.
Yes a hone would help,and yes the ones from Super-cheap are fine as I have used them for years and I've had no problem (or was that from Bunnings?Bugger I don't remember I guess they'd be the same).
I usually just make sure that the carbon build up around the ring groves are clean.
Just be careful when making a tool to undo the crank as if you get what your making to hot it will most likely break when you go to use it.
There usually is an auction on eBay that has those tools.I don't know maybe even Bruce has one in his shop.Also make sure if you buy one you get the right one as there are two different types.The early model and the late model of which you have there.
I guess from what I see I'd just clean the bottom end with a rag,clean the end of the piston put it back together and fire it up.That's what I'd do.As I really don't see any problem that would require this kind of work.
That would still be a satisfactory fix,it's a 2 stroke it would thank you for that.I've fixed many in the same state some even worse than that and they are still going just from cleaning and running,but that's up to you.If you need more help just ask I just can't see that it needs that kind of work,as yes you have got it early.

It took me a whole day to come to your conclusion and I agree totally now.My attempt of making a tool didnt go so well I just could'nt get it to bite enough to crack the factory + time torque setting if I kept going it was more likley to damage something most likley my knuckles, I have done that enough to know when it is coming now.In the past 3 weeks I have some how managed to end up with 17 mowers to fix so far I have revived 3,so when funds allow I might as well fork out for the proper tools.
I have managed to clean it up ok so I will do like you say.A bit like shutting the gate after the bulls bolted,but we all got to learn the hard way hey.I will get back to it tommorrow and see if I can get It fired up.I did notice from another post that It was a chinese block I did'nt know of such a thing (nasty trickery).They say you learn something new everyday,today I learnt plenty so I can go to sleep tonight knowing I dont have to learn anything new for at least a week.

The mower is running now but it is rubbing on the tin plate between engine and chassis.It seems flex in the chassis is causing most of the problem cause when it is on all fours it rubs but if I take the weight off the rear wheels it's not rubbing.Is flexing common on this style of chassis?And is it wise to remove the tin piece and run without it.I've had a couple of goes at tweaking The piece of tin and as soon as all the bolts are tight it rubs again.Also what is the tin piece called so I can stop calling it the tin thing.

That tin piece is called a Baffle and it help to keep grass from entering the bottom of the motor as well as protecting the flywheel and the ignition which is underneath the motor.So removing,I think is a bad idea.It does sound like you haven't got it on correctly.There are 2 lugs on the head side which should go up under the head to help hold it on.Then it lines up with the bolt holes.I'm not sure if it can fit,but maybe it's around the wrong way.I did at one point have one that was a mongrel to fit as every-time I got close the 2 lugs for the head end kept coming out.I'd dare say that's what wrong with it.
So no don't remove it,it is there for a reason.See if those lugs are under the head like they should be.
Let us know how you go.

Thanks Blumbly but the plate is in ok cause on the hole that doesnt have a bolt go through it is shaped so it snuggs up into the corresponding hole on the block and the lugs on the front are under the head and are as far as they will go.I noticed when I had it back out one time that it looks like it had been rubbing for the previous owner,a stick might of flung up and tweaked the baffle.I'll get the hammer and dolly out and see if I can tweak it back.I actually didnt run the engine for to long today cause I fired it up with my whipper snipper fuel which is a bit to lean I think.I'll run it tommorrow and I'll mix up some fuel with more oil,especially for this engine seeing as it has had it a bit rough lately.

Leave the baffle in place, like blumby said, remove the blade disk and use a small pry bar to bend it downwards working your way around the perimeter. eventually you'll get it so it doesn't rub.
Oh, and yes there bodies have a tendency to flex a bit but when they do you'll find a blade rubbing on the deck, especially if there's a kink anywhere around it. It's a bit abnormal for the baffle to rub when the body is flexing because that is where the motor is anchored to the body and is therefore fairly rigid. Is it possible that a couple of your engine mounting bolts are loose?

Thought I should update that the mower is running fine now. Thanks Blumbly & bigted for your help

That fine and I'm glad it worked out.I take it you had some success with the baffle then.
Also always happy to help.