OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Walk Behind Lawn Mower Frames Four Stroke Lawn Mower Frames Morrison Rapier 710 Advice Please!!

Hoping some one may have a Rapier 710 self propelled.

Took the bracket of the bottom left hand side of mower a few years ago have just got the motor finally running however I can not remember how the spring in the photo attaches.
Hoping some one may know or would be as kind to take a picture of this on there machine PLEASE AND THANK YOU.
Kind Regards BuckaU

Hi BuckAU,

Have attached a parts list for the 710 model which might help.

Thank You Bruce
A huge help your help is very much appreciated.
Kind Regards BuckAu

Hi guys few years late, do you have the rapier 660 parts list also by any chance

Cheers

Don't be so hard on yourself Jason90. A crapola load of months yes, but not years.

Hi Jasonc90,

Attached is the 660 and 660C parts list.

Hi. Got the parts manual. Thank you! Anyone got the service manual that will show me how to disassemble the blade spindle and replace the bearings? Can't see how to get the housing assembly and flange off.

Hi Merediths,

I can give you a one size fits all type of order of removal ,just take from the following what's applicable to your mower.

Typical removal sequence — do these in order

Remove the blade and arbor nut — leave no load on the spindle.

Remove exterior pulleys / belts / drive components that are on the spindle. If the spindle has a pulley or gear, there may be a keyway and a key — remove the key after loosening the pulley set screws.

Look for set screws or lock nuts at the flange — many machines use a collar or nut behind the flange. Rotate the spindle slowly by hand; you may find a small grub screw/allen screw that locks the flange. Remove any visible set screws.

Remove any snap rings (circlips) visible on the shaft or inside the housing. Use internal/external circlip pliers as appropriate. These often retain the flange or bearing spacer.

Inspect inside the housing for a bearing retainer plate / cross bolts — some housings have a small plate fastened with screws that hold the inner bearing race or retainer. Remove these screws.

Apply penetrating oil to the mating surface between the flange and spindle/housing and let it soak (30–60 minutes is typical).

Use a puller on the flange — attach a 3‑arm puller to the flange face or to the hub if there are threaded holes. Tighten the puller centre slowly. If the flange is stubborn, heat the flange (not the shaft) with a torch for a few minutes — expansion helps free it. Be careful with seals and paint.

If flange still won’t move: use a slide hammer pulled from the flange face or pull from any threaded flange bolt holes (with proper puller bolts). Alternatively, place soft‑faced drifts at several points and give short, firm blows to break the bond — avoid hammering the shaft directly.

Once flange comes off, remove spacers and record order — take photos or lay out parts in order.

Extract bearings from the shaft or housing:

If the bearing is on the shaft (press fit): press the bearing off the shaft using an arbor press or large socket bearing driver, pushing on the inner race only.

If the bearing is in the housing: press it out from the opposite side, pushing on the outer race only.

NEVER press on the wrong race (will damage bearing).

If stuck, heat the housing (not the bearing) slightly to loosen the fit or use a split bearing puller.

Inspect shaft and housing for scoring, pitting, runout. Replace/repair if damaged.

Fit new bearings:

Clean surfaces thoroughly.

Press bearings on by the race you’re supposed to press (inner race for press‑on shaft bearings; outer race when pressing into housing).

Use correct bearing heater or induction or a short, controlled press. Don’t overheat seals.

Reinstall spacers, seals, and any snap rings in original order.

Reinstall flange:

Clean the contact surfaces; consider using high strength retaining compound only if the manual specifies (do NOT guess).

Press flange back on, or reinstall with puller in reverse. Align any keys.

Torque any flange nuts/bolts to the manual spec (if you don’t have a spec, tighten to a firm stop and check axial play).

Check axial/preload (if applicable): some spindles require a certain preload or shim pack. If the unit uses shims, measure end‑float with a dial indicator and adjust with shims until in spec.

Reassemble pulleys/guards, test rotation by hand, then powered test at low speed. Listen for noise and check bearing temperature after a short run.

Common traps and tips specific to “housing assembly and flange won’t come off”

Hidden set screws: look under paint, behind seals, inside small recesses. Use a flashlight.

Snap rings inside the housing: sometimes they’re tucked behind a shoulder — remove them first or the flange won’t clear.

Loctite / thread locker: previous repairs may have used thread‑locker on retention nuts; heat and penetrating oil will help.

Corrosion/bonding: flange can corrode to the shaft — heat the flange (do not overheat bearings) and use a puller or slide hammer.

Don’t hit the shaft end hard — that can damage bearings/seals or cause the shaft to displace and damage the motor.

If the flange is a press fit on the bearing and you try to pull the bearing by the stator/housing, you’ll destroy parts — always support and push on the correct race.

If you get stuck

Are there threaded holes in the flange face? They often accept puller bolts or are where the blade guard attaches.

Is there an internal circlip under the outer housing seam? Remove housing cover and inspect inside.

Does the manual show any numbered retaining screws? If so, those must come out before the flange will move.

Reassembly checks & run-in

After reassembly, run the spindle by hand to feel for smoothness.

Run at low speed under no load for 5–10 minutes. Check for unusual vibration, noise, or heat.

Re‑check end float and bearing preload after first run (some bearings seat slightly).

Cheers
Max.