Hi Guys I'm reringing my gxv120 but can't remove the cutting disk from the crank. I tried a three jaw puller bit it's just mangling the disk (I hope I can knock it back in shape after I get it off.I would think it has a key into tapered shaft. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks Micko
It more likely a straight shaft PTO. It is a good chance that since you are bending the adapter that it is seized on the shaft. It looks like you're in for replacing the adapter once removed and you would heat the union while attempting to pull it off. Someone probably didn't use anti-seize compound when install the adapter.
Here when I get a Cub Cadet ZTR that needs a new drive belt I usually end replacing the pulley because seizure. Cub never used anti-seize compound and it is a shame that I must destroy a good pulley because of this.
Hi Mikoooo, what you need to decide is, is the motor worth the effort? Only way I can get these off in this situation is to cur the carrier around the boss and then get my bearing puller on the back of the boss and then it will come off. They can be extremely tight but they will come off. It is a straight shaft with a key in it, same as all the 4 strokes. I have to ask you why the center bolt is still in place?
Hi norm It is worth it to me..challenge and all that. Ha ha .no im not trying to take it off with the bolt in. The center bolt is just screwed in a couple of turns for the 3 jawpuller to press against. Im not sure where i could get another blade carrier disk. Is it worth teying heat whilst using the 3 jaw puller?
Micko, ok as long as you want to do it that is fine. Dumb manufacturer that does this stupidity, but I guess it is not their problem so they don't care. Just get a blade carrier and boss off a rover or whatever, anybody repairing mowers will have a stack of them under the bench. Just make sure the shaft is 7/8th inch, unlikely to be one inch but I came across 2 in the same day a few weeks ago. You can try heat but unless you have oxy you will probably find that you have to get it very hot and that then gets heat travelling up the shaft and may damage the bottom seal. Another problem with trying to pull it with a 3 jaw, unless you cut the carrier , the jaws are pulling from too far away from the shaft to have much effect. Some are extremely tight
Thanks Norm Looks like a job for the angle grinder and then some. Can the current blade is a long 1 piece unit.On a HRU214 can I use a conventional Large round disk with the blades mounted in it ? I have an old HRU 94.Could I use this boss and blade ? thanks Micko
I'm not a fan of bar blades but so many manufacturers use them, I think the idea started in America. I prefer the spinning mass of a disc type blade carrier. I'm not quite sure what you have to work with, bit confusing there, do you have the disc and boss off the 214?. If the 94 is just a bar, I would be looking for something else.
Hi Mikoooo and Norm, If the GXV120 is mounted on a honda base , which it more than likely will be, the shaft diametre will be 22mm, not 7/8" so your standard masport , rover etc boss won't be a snug fit, so you'd be looking at a genuine honda setup for the right fit. Cheers, Ted
Thanks BT, that is interesting, I have pulled a number of Chondas to bits over the last while and when I have undone the center bolt the boss just falls off, but when I fitted a Rover style boss to them they were nice and tight to get on. I also had to make a keyway to fit because the Chonda was wider and a full length one. I have a couple of dead Hondas here so if I get a chance I will pull the bosses off and see how they fit just for kicks and giggles.
MF, generally the Honda motor outlives its base so it is unlikely anybody would fit a Briggs. As I said the motors outlive the base, I have a Honda on a Greenfield base and a Honda on a Masport base, both have obviously outlived their original bases
I pulled the 2 Honda blade carriers off and one boss just fell off the second required a few taps with a hammer and it was off. I tried a few Briggs bosses and most were a little loose but one was a snug fit. Anyway the upshot of this is I have a couple of Honda bosses and blade carriers if anybody wants them
Hi Guys, I think the best tool to remove the blade carrier-bushing-in-1 is to make a fork type wedge. Hammer the wedge through the shaft between the engine base and bushing or weld the wedge into an SDS bit and use a rotary drill in a hammer mode. The strong vibration will dislodge the rust and will slowly force the bushing out. Or support the engine base with steel plate. Remember that in theory, a thin wedge of steel can create enormous forces for lifting or splitting when driven into a crack or crevice.
Personally I am quite leerly of anything putting a lot pressure on the crankcase. And these adapters can be really rust fused at times that why when I can I use a bearing separator/puller setup. I have the stripped out a few forcing screws even when using heat to expand the adapter connection.
When they are stuck this bad I know I am going to need to replace the adapter or pulley most times so I go ahead and order the new replacement part. But now I don't have ready access to takeoffs either.
As I said earlier, cut the blade carrier off as close to the boss as you can,about half an inch away from the boss and if you are going to use a 3 jaw puller then cut the blade carrier in a triangle shape so you can get the jaws to grab onto the edge of the remaining boss. Honda uses a longish boss that is up fairly close to the underside of the motor so getting a 3 jaw to grab up there may be a problem. I find a bearing puller is the best way to remove these. At least if you cut the blade carrier off, then you can remove the motor from the frame and then it is much easier to work on the motor to remove the boss
If you're not worry about the disc and can get a replacement disc, just use an angle grinder to cut the disc from the bushing and cut the bushing in opposite sides. Hammer it to split it open.
As for Honda they make both size crank diameters, 7/8" and 22mm. From my experience the ones fitted to honda mowers are 22mm. The ones sold to other mower manufacturers are 7/8. Just my observations. Cheers, Ted
Well there you go BT, wonder what their thinking was/is, why complicate matters, and then for some insane reason on the Honda shafts they have reduced the diameter again on the 20mm of the shaft, so that section of shaft is doing nothing. Then they go and make a much longer boss than all the others, probably because they put a step on the end of the shaft????
Hi everone Finally it's off.Here is how i did it. I put the blade on loosely over the blade holder so a 2 arm puller can fit under it. I then applier a lot of tension and sprayed the hob with "bolt buster" Still it wouldn't budge and and the puller flew off and injured my finger. I tried again the next day (I wore gloves and protection this time) It still wouldn't budge.I made up a shield to protect the crankcase and oil seal. I then applied LPG heat with the tension applied to the hob. There was a loud pop and it moved a bit. I then reapplied tension and more heat to the hob and it popped off a bit more. After 3 goes it was off. Unfortunately the hob with the blade adapter is ben beyhond repair from my earlier attempts with the 3 jaw puller.I now have to source a replacement.
G-day mikoooo, good to know my two prong gear puller is useful for a job like this. It is my first and only puller and have only used it a couple of times in the decade I have had it, which was to remove the Victa FC cooling fan.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Hi Micko, I don't think the carrier is a problem, the plate on the bottom of the boss that the blade bar bolts to seems to be ok, the rest of the disc, not really sure what it is for, just a bit of spinning weight I think, so as long as it is reasonably straightened out it should be ok, you could even cut it off if it troubled you
Hi all, If I have a setup similar to this Honda where the plate is part of the crankshaft hub,I just drill two holes in the plate so the bolts for the puller bypass the plate,that way nothing is bent or damaged.
Now Max that is an idea I thought of for pulling the hub in question but without seeing one in person I didn't mention that setup. Now the OP needs to make sure to avoid drilling in the stop welds.
Even using that setup here on other hard pulls I still need to heat things but some of the pulls I do are very rusted up as rust can seize things very tight.
I got three sizes the bearing separator clamps. On the larger one I need more bolt (screw) spread than the harmonic balancer puller can provide at times which why I designing a bar puller type for my machinist to make for me.
Yes they are prone to rust ,I find the coarse bolt thread on the puller is more durable compared with a fine thread when removing the blade plate boss.
Metal quality is key with any good puller which why striped the Harbor Freight puller forcing screw. Too much tolerance in the threaded puller bar creating a loose fit plus the forcing screw was very low quality. My machinist used much closer on resizing the puller bar and installed a high grade forcing screw. Just it last week om a very hard pull and no damaged threads.
In your image that puller hub look to be shop made vs commercial made so I asking is the center hole threaded for pushing against the shaft or are you using the nut to push? On this end I use my 1300 ft-lb impact on my puller which is also why I probably stripped the original forcing screw.
I do agree that coarse thread on regular screws and better due what I call sloppy tolerances. Last week I was a 3/8 screw for a 3/8 drilled hole for a tight fit. Every screw un-threaded portion I tried was so loose I had step up one size and fine tune the pivot hole in the bushing to match to clearance I wanted.
Even to find decent screws and other similar hardware I have to either go to the local Fastenal store or order them through my McMaster supplier where they don't sell the el cheapo hardware.
The harmonic balancer puller is home made,it's made from 9/16 plate.
The cheap professional ones have snapped when the going gets tough.
I was using a high tensile unf thread that was about 15/16 in diameter but that stripped .the thread at least 3 times so I just use a coarse thread that pushes against the nut.
When the coarse thread gets too worn on the bolt it will be replaced as I have a few spare.
As harmonic puller I got an old one from the 70's that a lot better made than the ones I have seen lately myself. As for yours being home made it is probably stronger those cast ones. This why I make several of my own tools too as I have a much better idea of what I going to use the tool for.
For some things there simply no commercially available for the job the we access things or at least for there is not with out a lot of extra disassembly.
