OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Briggs & Stratton Engines Briggs Classic 375 starter

I have a Classic 375 Briggs which starts and runs well, no smoke. The starter failed on it the other day. This is the starter on the top of the engine but is actually part of the housing, not separate like they usually are. Underneath its all metal with the ball bearings as the engagement mechanism. Do any of the cheap starters fit after you cut off the existing one?. I just happen to have a few good starters for the earlier model, the side starter direct upward pull but they wont fit as there is no gear on the flywheel. Maybe change the flywheel too?

Can not spend very much on a Briggs these days and I do not hold them very high in my opinion. Probably have to wait until I see another engine which is worn out. Should be plenty around.

All the best
Jeff

Hi Jeff, I think you could fit the vertical pull, as you say you need to change the flywheel. Pretty sure everything lines up, trying to think. I assume the one you are trying to explain is the sprag type clutch that sticks through the top when you remove the cowl? Pity you are not down here I have a pile of Briggs cowls 3 feet high, never know when you might need a part from one of them

Thanks Norm,

I dragged out one of my old engines. Yes it looks like everything lines up. Yes it is that type that sticks up through the cowl. I guess the lower part just comes off via a thread just turn the the whole thing against a locked flywheel and it undos like a nut. Left or right handed thread? I hope the flywheel magnets etc are the same. I have never taken off a Briggs flywheel before, Obviously a puller is needed. I like to keep well away from Briggs..

All the best
Jeff

Hi Jeff, The clutch is right hand thread, from memory take the perforated cover off and with a cold chisel give it a hit on one of the ears the 3 screws came out of and it should undo fairly easily. Been a while since I have pulled one of the flywheels off, can't remember if I had to tap threads into the 3 holes in the top of the wheel, probably had to. Then I have a piece of 3mm plate about 100 mm square I drilled 3 holes to suit the 3 in the flywheel with a 10mm hole in the middle. Put a bolt through the hole with a nut on the underside, screw 3 screws through the plate into the top of the flywheel, then tighten the center bolt up and get a fair bit of pressure on it and if it doesn't break free give the center bolt head a hit with a hammer and it should pop off. The key will often flick up and catch on the inside of the magnet in the flywheel. You will also need the nut to go with the new flywheel setup

Hi Guys,

This thread has now been moved to it's correct Sub-Forum.

Cheers,
BB.

Please the model, type, and date code numbers. as I see what the setup is first before commenting much.

BTW Briggs are not that bad once you get acquainted with the way they do things. If it is the starter clutch I am thinking it is they do need torqued back to spec so the flywheel doesn't except it is suppose to shear. Now these starter clutches do need oiling or they will hang from fiction destroy the recoil assembly. First sign of trouble is a squealing noise. And there is tool for this that is much better than using a hammer and punch.

As the rewind assembly there is usually two metal ears holding the pulley in place that you can gently bend out so the pulley and (watch it) the spring can removed for servicing. Some these even have an extra ears in case you break one off.

The only other thing you will need to consider is that the vertical pull starter has 2 tabs that bolt to the block. The front one is easy enough and picks up with the fuel tank. The 2nd one may not have the hole drilled and tapped on the back of the block where it picks up. Again, it can be drilled and tapped but be careful not to go too far and drill through into the crankcase.
Cheers, Ted

Someone should start a "fake mowers" section for all the myriad of Chinese made tin being bought en mass by all too many willfully ignorant Aussie consumers these days. Maybe CNN needs to diversify into Chinese mowers haha.

Maybe that is how they are going to get around our steel tariffs by saying "Hey its tin not steel." Or they might start making the bodies out of plastic like Honda does on some their mowers.

Now back to the problem at hand with the recoil.

Thanks AVB,

Its obviously the model you are thinking of but the ID numbers are long gone. Yes it did start the squealing noise before the starter stop working. I'll have a good look today. I don't think the second hole has been drilled for the vertical starter. I'm not sure I can be bothered to drill and tap. Better to wait and see if a worn out engine with a good starter turns up.

All the best
Jeff

Hey Jeff,
I think that is the right course of action. There are plenty of top starts for B&S classics out there from failed motors, ready to swap on. You just need to cross paths with one.

Please if you install a new top to the engine transfer the model, type, and date code as it will easier later to get the right parts; otherwise, the next tech may needto kill the engine due getting the wrong parts.

Hi,

It finally got the better of me. After looking at it carefully with the new starter hanging on one bolt, I drilled and tapped a workable 1/4 " thread for the second bolt. I got the flywheels of both motors with a puller I had fairly easily.I swapped over the flywheels without difficulty. I treied the old cowl but no go the studs are in a different place. I cut out the side of the Classic cowl for the pinion to clear. Pulled the cord and away it went. I had to use the old air filter housing as the Classic fowls the new starter. I was tempted to cut off the protruding part of the crankshaft so I could fit the plastic mesh from the old engine but I resisted as now if I can find a Classic cowl it will bolt straight on still.

All the best

Jeff

Well done Jeff, I will keep those little tricky bits in the back of my mind. I remember I have cut the end of the crank off on a couple of motors but that was because I was fitting the later cup starter cowls (they fit straight on from memory) but I had never done one going back to the vertical start type