OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Honda Engines Replace spark plug boot

Hi, I have a friends chonda for repair. It's a "Tiger", rather small mower and I've never seen one before. The spark plug boot is broken. It screws off for easy replacement but I was wondering if I could replace it with a boot from an old Briggs and Stratton. The problem is that some of these boots have resistors built into them and I know the B&S boots don't. Is there a problem in doing this? Do the chonda's have resistors built into their spark plug boots?
Really bad photo, sorry.

I answered my own question. Here are the components (that spark plug cap just unscrews). The order is boot, spring, resistor and cap, I have the spring in the wrong order in the photo.

I've got a couple of dead Chondas lying around with good caps if new ones are too expensive. Be happy to cut one off and post it to you for the cost of the postage.

Thanks for the offer Aussietrev. I'm sure you'll be needing them for yourself as the magneto's are probably good. I'll dig one up somewhere. I was interested in the resistor part. I didn't know anything lived in there. Is it to stop voltage spikes and giving the spark plug a longer life?

Apparently it's just for noise suppression. It can be removed for stronger sparking and annoying neighbours listening to the radio.

If switching over to Briggs style boot just install a resistor spark plug of the correct heat range and you should be good to go. Don't forget the reach of the plug either.

Good thread with some good points.

AVB or anyone else,

Can you please clarify the need for a resistor spark plug of the correct heat range. I would like to make sure if I encounter the same problem as Sparker, that my machines are adjusted spot on.

Thank you

Peter

I just used the normal plug and a briggs boot. The resistor is only for b
noise suppression whether it is on the boot or the plug

I haven't used resistor plug tops or resistor spark plugs in my old motorbikes or small engines for years and my neighbours have never complained about any interference with their tv or radios, and I'm sure my wife would have let me know if I was upsetting her tv from the front door at the top of her voice

Hey guys,

Im in the same boat as OP. The spark plug boot on my Chonda also broke so I was planning on just replacing it with another.. which is about $10 on ebay.. but was wondering how easy it would be to just do a straight swap with a B&S or even VICTA boot ? I think I have an old boot here from a VC160.

Is it just a matter of removing the boot and slipping the wire into the new one? or would have to cut/splice the new one into the existing cable ?

Thanks

It not just as simple slipping on a boot as you got to install a new contact terminal for the switch over. Now there are contacts that are just a coiled wire that can be used in cases where you have a 45 degree entry or bendable contact. I have seen both available on net. There are also Crimp-on terminals. I would suggest whichever one that make this least vibration resistance. Personally I used the crimp terminals whenever I can but I have a professional installation tool for doing open barrel crimps.

If you look close at the first post's image and does take keen eyes you see that Honda boot was a 45. Now most Briggs are either 90 or 180 (Straight) boots and terminal. As far as the Victa someone on you end would need to chime in as I have never seen one. Second thing to keep in mind if installing a new style boot and terminal is the plug wire diameter as there are 5mm, 7mm, and even sometimes a 8mm use on some engines. 5mm are used on the handhelds and 7mm on most walk behind and riders here.

AVB, the Victa 2 strokes use the most primitive setup you could ever imagine, a small self tapper screwed into the end of the lead and a rubber boot slipped over it, but they work and that is all that matters

NormK, Now wait a minute are you saying just wrapping the wire around the plug terminal and using duct tape is high tech?

I have seen that done here. I even seen a bar blade duct taped on a couple years ago.

I figure you guys where doing things a little more professional including upgrading things like that when it needs repairing.

AVB, I give everything that leaves here a "lifetime" warranty, I point out that it is my lifetime, not the machines

Most customers I give a 30 day what I done only warranty. For those wanting things just patched it is an "Out the Shop Warranty"; otherwords, once it leaves the shop the warranty expires.

AVB out here that is classed as a "concrete warranty", once it leaves my concrete it is out of warranty

Hi,

I have been using a Chonda with the simple Red Victa boot and a self tapper screwed into the Chonda wire for many years. Goes very well, nobody has complained about TV interference or anything like that. This is a engine swap on a Rover Regal 19 frame. Had to put the Chonda on sideways and found that the rigid plug boot broke very easily against brick walls etc.No problem with the rubber boot at all.

All the best
Jeff.

Interestingly enough Norm, Victa only brought in that setup on the last of their full crank engines, and then carried it over to the PowerTorques. Previous to that, a crimped brass lug was used at the HT lead end.

I'd say that what made it possible was going to a silicone rubber plug boot, which don't perish. Wouldn't have worked for all that long, with the older perishable butyl rubber type boot.

Hey guys, thanks for all the info

Here's a couple pics of what I'm dealing with...





As you can see, the Honda boot it broken and pulled from the cable.

The VICTA boot, much different in design. I was planning on cutting the Honda cable and trying to solder the Victa onto it.. though the thickness of the VICTA wiring, not sure if it'll suck up all the heat from the soldering iron... ideas ?

You could something this but crimping could be a problem without right tools. For professional crimp it uses an open barrel crimper.
These should be at the auot parts supplier and do make these adjustable (bendable)versions too.

Hi,

I think I just used a self tapper and put the Victa boot straight over it. Not sure now, is that the way the plug wire is stock in your photo? If it is I probably did not need a self tapper, just put the Victa boot straight on. Has worked very well for a few years now.

Al the best
Jeff