OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions On Ride On Mowers Questions on Greenfield Ride On Mower Frames Greenfield Evolution 10.5 Ride-on - Steering

Hi, managed to pick up this mower very cheap. Has been sitting for a year. Did a full service and freed up everything. Started on the fourth pull.

Only one thing that i knew i would have to fix is the steering. The main bolt through the front end is so loose that the steering is terrible. Turning left is not so bad but turning right it pushes the ftron wheels forward instead of turning to the right. Yes it is very worn out. Should be easy fix.

Has any one got pics or diagram of the front end. Not much to it just a big bolt in the middle and two either side that move up and down in a slot.

A diagram or pic would be nice. Might be a bush on the main bolt or worn out bolt or hole maybe.

Will find out shortly. A diagram would be a great help.
Thanks heaps
Rudolf

Hello Rudolf,
I have never worked on one of these or owned one, but with the aim of getting the ball rolling, here is a diagram of some greenfield steering. May or may not be your model.

The set up sounds much the same as my Rover Rancher. It is hard to imagine how a worn pivot bolt would allow the wheels to "push forward" instead of turning especially in only one direction if it is similar to the Rover. On my Rover there was a crack in the frame just behind the pivoting member on one side that caused crazy steering. It developed because the bolt that moves up and down in the slot had come loose. A new bolt and Nylock nut and a splash with the arc welder fixed it.

Thanks mark but the problem with the steering is all in the actual front end.

Its not hard to imagine that when you turn left the rod pulls back and when you turn right the rod pushes forward but instead of turning right the front axel pushes forward because the sleeve in the axel is loose and the main centre pivot bolt is loose as well.

I took the front axel off and also unbolted the backing plate that the centre pivot bolt is badly attached too.

Out of pure luck took everything to a steel fabricator who said as i was walking in with everything "its another greenfield ride on lol"

The front axel has a short bit of pipe put in a drilled hole in the centre that the pivot bolt goes through. The short bit of pipe also has a small dent on top. They drilled a small hole from the top of the box section inline with the demt and braze it. So it doesn't even take to the pipe (bush). Eventually it moves and flogs out the hole in the box section axel.

The backing plate has the big pivot bolt in the middle. When you look behind it greenfield put a 50mm by 75mm extra bit of sheet metal to try and strenghten the backing plate and spot weld it about 8 times. The guy said watch this and tapped the bolt with a hammer and it fell out. He said he has never seen one where the spot weld has ever taken. This piece of sheet metal comes out bent like a banana from flexing and the backing plate had about 5 cracks in the metal from the pivot hole outwards. The plate behind the pivot bolt is twice the size now.

Front axel box section doesn't fold forward anymore the wheels turn right instead of both going forward.

All beefed up and welded and steers great
Rudolf

Rudolf, thanks for taking the time to let us know the outcome.
Very detailed.
Seems to be a common problem.
Good to hear it is working.

Here Is the evo 10.5

A different set up to the Rover then as it has a plate between the chassis rails both in front and behind the pivoting cross member with bolts right through all three on both left and right sides operating in a slot that allows the arm to move up and down but even with the centre bolt completely gone it would not allow it to move backwards and forwards, except when the chassis rail cracks like mine did that is.

The short bit of pipe (bush) that sits in the box section axel has a washer each side to help the axel pivot. The two outer bolts go through the box section axel with a large washer on the other side held on with nylock nuts. The bad part of the design is that the nylock nuts travel up and down in a arc shaped slot in the backing plate. Thinking a better design would of been for these bolts to be a bit longer and another washer added to the other side of the backing plate and then nylock nutted. This would support the axel a lot more and take a lot of pressure off the large centre pivot bolt.

My front end has been beefed up heaps thanks to the guy that did the welding but you can still see a slight flex in the main pivot bolt when you turn the steering wheel while the mower is stationary.

Should last a while
Rudolf