Hi All, I have been inspired by many of the members rebuild here at Outdoorking.com ( great site ) soI Picked up a second SB45 the other day which will undergo a complete ground up rebuild, similar to JamSkins2. I have had a SB45 for some time which is in OK condition, it works great and cuts like a new one, but she is a bit battered and not all that aesthetically pleasing. The new SB i got is in pretty good shape, Zero frame cracks and everything in place, well looked after machine.
I have alreay completley stripped and Robo Washed all parts and sent bits off to be chromed. Next is get everything Sand/bead blasted and ready for GunMetal Grey Metallic Paint + clear. Need to Order 10 blade reel and get that Powder coated along with the Soul Blade.
Wanting to fit out with a New Honda GX120, Strip the fuel tank and have that Painted to match framework, so if any one has any info or issues with fitting the GX120 ( Jamskin ?) to this model i would appreciate the help.
Look forward to updating you the process and progress.
Regards Pete
Last edited by CyberJack; 16/03/1503:19 AM. Reason: Topic heading
Hi peettee, looks like a nice project. I'll look forward to seeing your progress. The Honda engine is a great way to go, I'd like to do the same one day but my Briggs' have so far been extremely reliable.
Best of luck with the project and please keep the pictures coming
Update. Dropped all parts off for abrasive blasting today, and started to clean up and paint what parts i have left.
With a bit of elbow grease the 30yr old Clutch came up OK. Still requires a final going over and clear. Primed and applied a couple of coats of metallic grey, will wack one more on then 3 clear layers. Front roller brace. Should have frame back friday to start paint this weekend...and chrome bits next week...stay tuned.
Last edited by CyberJack; 22/11/1807:09 PM. Reason: Remove Photobucket branding.
peetee, you have an early (captive cotter) clutch, but it has at least one grubscrew as well. If it has a second grubscrew directly over the keyway, it would probably work as well as the later style clutch that had two setscrews (one where yours is, and one over the keyway). Does yours have a second grubscrew, and do you know how it came to have it or them?
Hi Grumpy, yes it has the second grubscrew hole over the keyway, not too sure on the history of this one, i aquired it from an older gentleman who isnt too well so I cant establish the mowers past. Cheers
Hi to peettee and grumpy, That is the later style inner clutch half, and has no captive cotter fitted...you can see that in the first pic.
Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member. Kindest Regards, Darryl
Thanks Deejay, I can see where I went wrong now. I've always thought Scott Bonnar produced a new pattern to cast the inner clutch-half when they changed to two setscrews, but I now see they kept using the old pattern, and just drilled and tapped the two holes for the setscrews - see red circle:
It was an economical move, but disappoints me a bit.
Picked up a heap of new bolts to replace the stretched originals, went with a HT counter sunk Allen for the bed knife as i wasn't happy with the OEM flat drivers that need to be impact driven home.
Last edited by CyberJack; 22/11/1807:12 PM. Reason: Remove Photobucket image.
Obviously you needed new screws, but using high tensile ones in that situation is a mixed blessing. The screws are much harder to strip, but the sole plate is not: any overtightening will now strip the sole plate, which is quite an expensive item. Also, it is fairly difficult to strip a soft straight-slot screw without first doing at least slight damage to the slot, which should serve as a warning. Also, the hexagonal recesses in the cap screws will now pack with crud and rust, making it difficult to remove them. With straight recesses, you can easily clean them by putting the edge of a screwdriver in the slot and tapping it sideways with a small hammer.
Having said all that, cap screws are prettier than straight slot screws - but I personally would not use them in that situation.
Good points Grumpy ! I may still use the OEM ones after taking that info into consideration, there is a reason why they used them in the first place right ! When I removed the originals with an impact driver one of them was slightly damaged and I had to run a 1mm grinder through it to regen the slot for more purchase, so I thought Hex would be an easier alternative later on down the track.
I think you can buy straight-recess screws at least as easily as cap screws, peetee. Personally, I'd buy new, soft, straight-recess screws. That way you get well-fitted heads, and if they are installed carefully, they look nice.
Blasted me parts and applied first coat of primer, will start bogging and sanding for a better finish.
Have changed colour scheme slightly, going to get powdercoated bright orange the drum ( leaving centres charcoal) the new 10 blade reel and soul blade, i will paint Honda cowling same orange... charcoal and orange could work out pretty smart with the chrome bits.
Was also thinking if adding in a pair of custom trolly transport wheels at the rear to traverse my driveway, couple of smart chrome brackets with a set of roller blade wheels mounted where the handle bars are fixed?
Last edited by CyberJack; 22/11/1807:14 PM. Reason: Remove Photobucket image.
Hi peettee, I am slightly concerned about powder coating the underside of the soleplate, it needs to be perfectly flat as the new bed knife, once firmly attached, will conform to the shape of the sole plate. The new bed knife (complete with its sole plate) will need to be re-ground at the same time as the reel, as no bedknife is perfectly flat from the manufacturer.
Last edited by Deejay; 21/01/1409:43 PM. Reason: Added Detail
Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member. Kindest Regards, Darryl
DeeJay, I will be Masking of this region so no Powder coat will be applied to the mating face. Was planning on turning then Spin grinding the reel and milling the sole plate myself at work....any tips on performing this ?
Hi Pete, no mate, no tips as I am not an engineer....have you sharpened cylinder reels before yourself, by spin grinding.?
Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member. Kindest Regards, Darryl