OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Briggs & Stratton Engines Old B&S ID Please

Hi All,
Looking for a way to identify this old Briggs engine.(Briggs is mentioned on the aircleaner)
I'm thinking it's older than 30 years.
I need to know the oil capacity,as it has no dipstick.
There are 2 drain plugs & 2 filler lids.
Your thoughts are appreciated...

Jim





PS..While I'm at it,anyone know what the unrelated item in final pic is?Is it a performance auto item??

If it was made later than about 1960 it will have a long series of numbers stamped on the cooling air cowl, near the muffler. They will be grouped into Model, Type, and Code. If you give us those, preferably with a picture of the stamping, we should be able to tell you quite a bit about it.

Thanks Grumpy,
I'll clean it up early next week,& get back to you.
Obviously,this engine has been painted & I can't find any stampings under the thick paint.The wire brush will fix that.

Jim

Thanks Jim. By the way, those two plastic screw-in plugs are level plugs for the oil. The correct oil level is reached when you fill the sump to the top of the thread, then put the plug back in and tighten it with a screwdriver across the two lugs on the plug. There are two plugs because in some installations you can't get access to one or other of them. The oil capacity of the small Briggs engines is normally 600 ml, but when we identify yours we should be able to confirm that it applies.

Jim, the unrelated item looks like an oil catch can from the photo, I'm not 100% sure though.

I agree with rolla. If we are correct, it is intended to be connected to a tube rising from what is probably the oil filler of a machine with an oil sump. The oil in many such machines gets aerated. A vent directly on the original oil filler would be surrounded by a haze of oil mist when the machine was operating. This device would trap most of the oil vapour, and the little air filter on top would stop the remainder. Note that such a device could not legally have been used on a motor vehicle since about the 1970s, since it would defeat the positive crankcase ventilation system. It might have been intended for use on some kind of racing car, or an illegal street hotrod perhaps. Alternatively it might have been used on an industrial reciprocating air compressor, or a very old stationary engine that did not have PCV, to keep the machine and its surroundings from getting oily.

Thanks Grumpy & Rolla,
That oil catcher had me confused..the large hose fitting looks industrial,but all the shiny metal made me think of an automotive application.The logo "DRIFT" is on the top.

Regarding the B&S..............
MODEL: 131232 ; TYPE: 0218 01 ; CODE:82080207.

I will do an oil change & filter check after I hear back from you.
What grade of oil is required?
Thanks for the useful advice.

Jim

Hi Jim, grumpy will give you plenty of info on this engine, but I can tell you it was manufactured on the 2nd August 1982.

Hi Jim, that engine has a displacement of 13 cubic inches (215 cc), is of the second design generation, has a horizontal crankshaft and a Pulsa-Jet carburetor, with a flange mounting for the driven device (a centrifugal fire pump is currently fitted to yours), ball main bearings, and a rewind starter. It was manufactured on 2 August 1982 in Briggs' Plant 7, which has been closed for some time so it is not on my list of plants and hence I can't tell you its location. Note that 1982 was the year Briggs converted from breaker points ignition to electronic ignition, and consequently your parts list shows both systems. You would have to pull off the engine's cooling air cowl to find out which system your engine has - if you post a picture of the ignition coil/ignition module we can tell you.

Here is the Illustrated Parts List for that engine:
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/Z6mkyEVJ1DajI.pdf

Briggs does not list an Operator's Manual for that engine.

All of the Briggs side valve engines should be run on SAE30 automotive-rated engine oil, not multigrade. Multigrade will lubricate the engine, but will be consumed much faster.

Thanks again for the advice.I'll keep a file on it & include all your info.I am just about to buy some monograde 30 oil for a cheap ,reliable Chinese pump I own...I'll buy a gallon instead of a litre.
I'm getting a few pumps in place on my property,as it feels like a long,dry Summer coming up.

On another topic,I have a Deutscher 360 mower with a B&S 400CC engine.
I bought it as a non going mower,as someone left the air-cleaner cover off & water got in.
As a start point,what do i need to check to assess any damage??

Jim

Jim, it is easier if you post the details (Model, Type and Code) so we can see what kind of carburetor it has from the Illustrated Parts List.

Essentially, the water will have entered the carburetor so it will have to be stripped and cleaned, which is no big deal if it is a One or Two Piece Flo-Jet but a bit harder if it's a Walbro LMS or LMT. However depending on carburetor type the water may have gone into the cylinder and rusted everything into a single lump. If that has happened it will be a fair amount of work. There may be water in the sump as well, so that will need attention.

Once the engine type is identified, we can go through it step by step.

Grumpy,
Details for this yellow coloured engine :

MODEL: 253702.
TYPE: 0165-01.
CODE: 84032910.

Thanks,
Jim.

The engine was made on 29 March, 1984, so it should have electronic ignition.

Here is the Illustrated Parts List:
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/Z6nlyHVJ1DajI.pdf

Here is the Operator's Manual:
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/msoBGL-K_ny7tH217FzoPu.pdf

The carburetor is a Large One-Piece Flo-Jet, which is probably the most reliable and durable of them all, as well as the easiest to clean.

I suggest you begin by removing the carburetor, and looking in the engine's intake port to see if it has water in it. Then remove the spark plug and see if you can rock the engine by moving the flywheel slightly in both directions. Next, drain the oil and see if there is water in it. Tell us what you find, and we can move forward from there.

Hey Grumpy,
Found some time to remove the carb today.No water in the oil,but the fuel line was blocked.I was impressed by a wasp nest!
After a light brushing & clean,I have the whole lot soaking in a mix of oil/diesel.Nothing too rusty or bad,..but bits & pieces of blockages,light rust & age to be found.
My first concern is that rubber "S" shaped pipe that had the wasp nest.Possibly need to replace it,as it's quite decomposed

I'm thinking I might clean everything & replace odd parts & see if she'll start.
I shall return...
Thanks again,
Jim

1 more pic

1 more..

That wasp nest rubber hose is coming out of the Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve: it is the breather hose, which should go to the clean side of the air cleaner or entry to the carburetor.

Old Large One Piece Flo-Jets seldom die, but in any case they were very common and the large parts should be easily obtained second-hand. The small parts seem to be readily available new.

The key question is whether the engine will rotate freely. If it will, it may not be a big job to get it back into shape.

Hi Grumpy,
In my last picture,you can see the wasp nest mud near the bowl,where the hose connects.
It all cleaned up Ok,but I'll source a new vent hose.
Does that bowl need a top ring/gasket to seat properly,or is it metal-to-metal?There was no ring when I removed it,but there was sealant in that area.
The pull start works Ok,but I'll investigate the engine further.

Initially,I was told the air filter cover was left off & water got in..however,with the cover off,there is a vacant screw hole down below ,which would let water out before entering the engine..??



Thanks,
Jim

The one-piece flo-jets have a rubber ring set into a groove in the carburetor body. The top of the float bowl bears against the ring. Here is what it looks like:
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/gasketfloat-bowl-p-358912.html

Whether a hole works as a drain depends on factors such as whether it is clear, and whether it is at the low point. The latter aspect may depend on whether the engine is tilted, for example. If the engine turns over freely, the piston rings have not rusted onto the cylinder bore. This is very good news.

Hi Grumpy,
Thanks for your advice thus far.
For the past week,I've been trying to locate a replacement rubber ventilation tube.
I've sent several emails to B&S agents,but not one reply.
Would you know of a good dealer,or anyone with a used hose to sell?

Thanks,
Jim