OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Finding and Swapping Wanted G3 carby

Rings are designed either to use expanders, or not use them. If they require an expander, in my experience they are sold with one. You should never use an expander with a ring that was not designed to use one. Hence my system is, if the ring is sold with an expander, always use it. If it is sold without an expander, never use one with it.

Thanks Grumpy, I'll take the expander off as the rings I'm getting don't have an expander.

Thanks Tomo for the rings etc. I've put the rings onto the piston but cant get it into the cylinder because there's not enough room for the piston ring compressor. The connecting rod/piston is still connected to the crankcase. Would i be correct in saying that i have to put the piston into the cylinder and then connect the piston into the connecting rod or is there an easier way?
This operation is much easier on the powertorque!

tiger, with a bit of patience and perseverence you can compress the rings with your figers(top one first, then bottom one after you've pushed the top one through) and get the piston assembly in the bore. It helps to have the crank turned to a position where it allows the piston skirt to rest on top of the crankcase.
Alternately you can remove the gudgeon pin to remove the piston from the rod and do it that way.
Either way works, i've never used a ring compressor coz i never had one that small. Just make sure you size up your rings in the bore prior to assembly to make sure you have enough end gap; I've had a situation in the past where the rings were too tight in the bore(no end gap)and had to file the ends down a touch.

Thanks Ted, not sure my ring compressor is small enough either, forgot that these are the small rings. Did try with the fingers but didnt get anywhere.

Had to take the piston out and once I did that I got the rings and piston into the cylinder. Re-assembled it all and put a little petrol in but it didn't start, yanked the starter cord a few more times but no start
So I can rule out compression. It now leaves fuel and spark. I put a tablespoon of fuel into the spark plug hole and it still didn't start so I guess it must be spark. I tested the spark and I noticed that sometimes it sparked but at other times there was no spark. It was inconsistent and these results were outside of the cylinder so under compression I guess the results would be even worse. Bruce mentioned the condenser, I notice that the condenser has 2 wires attached, one goes to the kill wire. There is a electronic terminal at the end, question is how do I replace the condenser ie what do I do with the wires? The photo shows the terminal, looks like the wires are crimped and soldered.

hey tiger ,
least we know the rings are good now , when you buy a new condenser it normally comes with the wiring attached just make sure you get the one to suit g3 carby. if your going to do condenser do points also they may be floppy.

Rings are definitley good, I can feel a little extra effort when I pull on the starter cord. I'm yet to get the condensor and I read a previous entry on this forum about no spark with points/condenser where the user said that the key in the keyway of the starter mechanism was not engaging the cam, I looked at mine and exactly the same situation so I made sure it was engaged, also adjusted the points (yet again) and got a better spark. As soon as I got the better spark I knew it would fire up and it did, but the tickler on the carby is not releasing any fluid so I've gone full circle on this mower. I assume that the needle is stuck in its seat so I'll look at that later. I am also noticing that there is a spark coming from the bottom right corner of the mower chassis, it's not everytime that I pull on the cord but approx 50% of the time. I have insulated the kill wire and still this mystery spark is there, what is causing it and why is it only happening on some of the pulls?

Strange man , voltage leaking from some where .
check your plug lead and kill wire for broken insulation

Thanks Tomo i looked at these first, there is no broken insulation, havent seen this before.

Okay so now it's running but I need to address the governor/kill switch. The mower starts but it doesn't reach full revs although it does get close to it. The throttle plate does open and close when you activate the throttle lever but the governor is not moving of its own accord so when you try and move the governor vane it has no effect on the throttle plate. I can't get the kill switch to work I can see the 2 pieces that need to touch but I can't get the cable in the right position for this to happen.