OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Walk Behind Lawn Mower Frames Question On Scott Bonnar Cylinder Mowers Hi I'm Restoring Scott Bonnar Lawn King

This is the bearing that I am talking about it is inside the clutch housing which is located HERE on the online store.

ok the bearing is fine.

heres the pics of the stripped down frame parts, need to strip all the paint of the frame and do some rust prevention a then undercoat then a metallic blue finish

looks like im only going to have to replace 1 nut for the blade adjuster and the screws that hold on the chain cover.

no turning back now looks like u have it sorted going great mate...

Hi Tezza, I agree with Steve there, you're definately on your way now, mate, and now the fun begins.
Tezza, I was browsing some posts the other day and came across one by Mark_x11, who is restoring an early Scott Bonnar "Bonmow" which was also painted originally in a hammertone blue, it is manufactured by Septone and may be suitable for your Scotty.

Mark purchased it from Supercheap Auto....Here is a pic of his during restoration:Click HERE
What do you think?

just got a quote on sharpening the reel and bottom blade assembly, should be no more the $75 bucks, but will take a couple of weeks.

In the mean time ive stripped off all the paint from the frame and am gonna prime it this week for painting on the weekend.

To stop the frame rusting in the meantime, ive got a small piece of magnesium from and old pencil sharpener and taped that to the frame, the idea being that the magnesium will rust instead of the metal. apparently this works, and im gonna find out soon wenough if it doesnt

thats the exact paint im gonna get, i saw it in SuperCheap on Saturday.

No worries. Tezza, it should look brilliant!!
I'm glad that you're getting the reel and bottom blade professionally sharpened, providing that the cylinder reel bearings are serviceable, it should give your lawn a beautiful finish and the classic stripes.
Best of luck with the rest of the restoration.

well i finally got around to painting the frame and frame parts today, everything is painted except the deflector, the catcher, and the chain guard.

it does really look a treat too, next week getting the blade sharpened and a new bottom blade fitted.

Pics to follow

Hi Tezza, Looking forward to seeing the pics, mate. It should look brilliant!

so here are the pics of my painted frame parts and frame. I used a single coat of Septone Hammertone Blue, which is the closest of the shelf colour match that i could get.

I only used a single coat with no undercoat, as having a thin layer of paint is easier to repair since ill be using this mower.

the frame

the individual parts

Dropped of my reel and bed knife to get ground today. They said it should be ready on friday, and would cost about 40-50 bucks, they are even gonna straighten the few bends that the reel has.

They also told me that I need new bearings and I shouldn't even put the reel back on the lawnmower with the old ones, so new bearings it is then. If someone knows the part number for the reel bearings could you please tell me.

Now I have run into a little dilemma... As I was painting all my nuts and bolts etc. silver; I was regreasing the roller bearings and I noticed this spring. I have no idea where it comes from, or where it goes. I think that it sat inside the roller housing behind the bearing, but I'm not sure, does anybody know where its meant to go??
And is there meant to be two of them??

When you stripped it you should have been able to see whether it had been primed when new. Hammertone has some corrosion resistance - the Rustguard Hammer finish instructions say you only need to prime it if it has been rather rusty, and my Alroh certainly wasn't primed when new.

Yeah, my can said spray it straight onto the bare metal, no primer needed, and I did get ALL the rust off, it was a shiny steel skeleton before I painted it...

Hey Tezza, have you downloaded the illustrated parts list for your machine? This will tell you, in an instant, where the spring (or perhaps 2 springs) should be located. It appears to be a locking spring to keep something in place...so it is probably important.
The parts list will also give you the part numbers for the reel bearings....just go to the online store and see if Bruce has them in stock.

so now that im waiting for the reel and bed knife to return, i am working on the engine and have ran into a problem.

I cant remove the Crank Case from the engine.

Is there some kind of trick to it, or do i have to use brute force to get this engine apart.

have just paid for my parts manual subscription, so when the funds clear hopefully they will know the answers if you people dont know.

Are you sure the cylinder and crankcase are separate pieces? I just had a look at my 60102, and I can't find a joint line between them. Bruce will know for sure.

its probably not called the crank case, but it the the large metal panel on the side of the engine opposite the starter, held on by half a dozen odd bolts and the metal rod that attached to the clutch housing.

OK, that is what I call the timing cover (because the timing gears are behind it), but Briggs & Stratton call it the crankcase cover. Once you take out all of the screws, it will come off but usually the gasket tends to hang on to both parts. Removing the cover without damaging the gasket may not be possible: it is likely to split, or part of it sticks to each part of the engine and tears when the parts are separated.
My method is to tap around the outside of the cover gently with a soft-faced hammer. If it doesn't come loose (and it may not) I apply the sharp edge of a knife blade to the joint line, and gently tap the back of the knife with a hammer. Be gentle with either approach: you want to end up with the mating metal faces undamaged, and they are only cast aluminium.

ive got the two parts seperated fine, its the metal rod that is stuck and not budging, do i have to do something to the seals around this, or is it just seized on?