The engine had excellent compression so it was no surprise she started second pull after doing the usual pre start checks on something that's been sitting for a long period, she runs perfectly. I'll check the rest of the running gear operation once i get tyres on the rear.
A double oil change on both engine and gearbox is a good idea.
Empty both of oil allowing them to drain thoroughly. Then refill will new clean oil in both.
Run the machine for long enough to warm up the gearbox and then do a second change.
The right grades of oil are in the manuals section on this site.
I do this when I’ve let something sit longer than I should have.
I’m told oil for equipment without forced lubrication and filtration like most mowers shouldn’t contain surfactants so junk collects in the bottom of the engine and/or gearbox. When used oil sits around it can break down and water from the atmosphere condenses inside the casings while the machine sits. Starting and using machines with unknown service history can churn all this stuff up making a mix perfect for destroying bearing surfaces.
Nice find wce, how did you get it into the ute? I had a decent accident with a big generator on the curbside the other month loading it
Ironbark, running a modern (or really any) small engine on Non detergent oil is a bad idea
While it was recommended in the 50's, we have come a long way in oil technology since.
Aside air compressor oil, I can't think of any readily available Non-detergent oil on the market, except maybe some products made for historic cars.
Detergent oil contains a multitude of anti wear additives, acid control agents and other things that make for long oil and machine life. The dirtier running the engine, the more detergency required. Hence diesels oil is chock full of it - they have blowby causing acid buildup, soot buildup, etc.
While it is said detergent oils will not 'scrub' away the grime as well as a bottle of engine flush, it does a very good job.
Back when non detergent oils were recommended, the manual said do a flush after dropping the old oil, run 15 minutes, and drain then refill with ND oil. Probably was just kero oil mix back then.
What I do agree on is many rapid oil changes. My personal record is about 5 in an hour on an old 3.5hp briggs. The original oil came out like tar and despite a long drain, only 400ml came out (despite full on dipstick - hence 150ml of sludge in there. Changed the oil every 15 minutes until it wasn't disgusting and then ran longer intervals.
So long as I can get motor oil for between 95c and $2 per L, several flushes are cheap insurance
Had some help to load her up, new rear tyres fitted today, they are split rims so had to go tubes as well. Had to use a big 3 legged puller to get the wheels off, transmission oil changed, a few adjustments to be made, then looking forward to a road test.
I did not say, at any point, “use non detergent oil” I am saying, I thought very clearly but I’m perhaps getting decrepit, use what they recommend in the manual.
I think I said that? I’ll reread my post.
Yeah I did: “the right oils are listed in the manual on this site”
I think the bit you’ve grabbed hold of is where I said that non surfactant oils were and are used and that they can make the situation a lot worse when you pick up an older machine with unknown maintenance history.
I also considered relating some personal stories about old tractors and machinery on our farm to illustrate my point but I thought that’d bore people and in my field, personal experiences aren’t reliable data.
Yes I see now, sorry it didn't help that I had a guy jump down my neck the other morning that I put detergent oil in his mower. Was 100% adamant it was now going to blow up for those reasons outlined.
Havent pulled down any small motors that I know were run on ND or not, so it would be an interesting test. Though since an old briggs will run all day on 2 tablespoons of oil sludge, it may be a moot point
A mate of mine is going to sell his Deutscher self propelled because he has sold his property up in the Mallee. He is bringing it back to Melb so when he gets it back here I will post the details if anybody is interested
