If there's any doubt about it starting, roebuck, it sounds as if there is more work to do after the oil seal is sorted out. A side-valve Honda should start within two pulls, even if it has been standing for quite a while. (An OHV Honda should start first pull.) Anyway, let's get to the bottom of the oil seal issue first.

You posted a picture of a used oil seal laying on part of your engine. I doubt it is one of the an actual seals you had fitted to that engine, but we can use it to discuss one possible explanation of why your seals have been leaking. Here is the picture:
[Linked Image]

That seal seems to have had some spectacularly bad experiences. The red oval shows mangling of the garter spring, and heavy damage to the main seal lip. The yellow oval shows the imprint where the garter spring has been stretched out of position and pressed very hard against the web of the rubber part of the seal. All that probably happened when the seal was extracted from whatever engine it was in. However it illustrates what can happen under some circumstances, if you press a seal way too deeply into the bore it mounts in, so the inner ring of the ball race contacts the rubber part of the seal and then deforms it, so its sealing lip is not in contact with the shaft.

That malfunction is only possible in cases where two conditions apply. Firstly, the seal must be open on the oil side, like your GV150 seals, instead of having a double steel housing, like the one I showed in section in the diagram with the green arrow. Secondly, the seal has to be pressed into a smaller bore than the ball race.

Often an oil seal is in the same bore as the ball race. There is then not much of a problem with even an open-sided seal being pressed in too far, because the steel housing of the seal will hit the outer ring of the ball race, limiting how far you can press it in and preventing lip contact with the inner ring of the ball race. However when the bore the oil seal is pressed into is smaller, an open-sided seal can be pressed in considerably further, because its steel housing will miss the outer ring of the ball race and continue moving until the steel housing hits the ball cage. By the time the housing hits the ball cage, the inner ring of the ball race may be forced a long way into the rubber part of the seal, perhaps deforming and expanding the sealing lip.

In summary, the above is one possible explanation of what went wrong with your seal installations. If that is what happened, it seems to have been caused by the wrong instructions you got from the counter jockey at your Honda dealer, when he told you to press it in to 5 mm below flush. As you know, Honda specifies 2 mm below flush, and this may have been for a very good reason.