Perhaps I should go and take a couple of extra pictures. Theres details that the diagram does not show up.
21 and 22 are the different cutout/stop switches. This motor has 21 with the spring. Perhaps the other has 22 without spring.
17 is fixed, 16 piviots. Right above the 7 in 17 there is a downward indentation.
18 trips the choke.
Below the - before the 16 there are 3 holes in the front edge of the throttle arm for the govenor spring. High med and low goverened high speeds. The other end of the spring goes over the pin on the butterfly arm on the carb. Then wire link to the vane.
In the high RPM position the govenor spring is in tension and the indent in the slot. Below a certain spot there is no govenor tension due to the oval hole/wrap on the butterfly end of the spring. So it is spring/vane goverend at high RPM setting and perhaps the top 60-80%, below that you only have idle set by the stop screw. So to me that would say that the motor is designed to run at either idle or full speed nothing in between.
Choke position is above high speed. Quite a few degrees, when the engine is running you can move the lever up past the high speed detent over revving the engine and leave it set there without the choke coming on. The choke does come on as it should at the end of the levers movement.
Perhaps the movement so far past the high speed detent before full choke engagement is to put extra tension on the govenor spring to ensure that the throttle butterfly stays open for more reliable starting. At high speed perhaps the spring tension is not high enough to stop the butterfly 'flapping' with the air pulses.
What I was getting at is that with probably almost any type of control cable used on a mower it is not possible to 'feel' for the correct spot for the engines high speed throttle setting without looking at the side of the air cleaner and using the sticker on the lid and the lever as a refference.
