Contact me If you needs a handful quantity of needle supply and I will give you 20% less than anyone or any parts you need. You knew my number.
Hi NormK, Speedy Mower freak,
The love of these Victa 2-Stroke for me to develop a solution to keep these remaining masterpiece going for years not only for me but for everyone who loves the Victa 2-Stroke. NormK, this year the number of units drops in your area maybe because you fixed lots of them properly and didn't come back. You can only see in your area but in our sales record, surprisingly we have customers buying these Victa parts from UK, NZ and all over Australia and even some mower shops. I really thanks them and you guys for accepting the design. There are still lots of these units around. In sales point of view, sometimes you don't mind about profit margin and even break even is acceptable just in order to cater more product range for the convenience of the customers to shop in one store. Some. Seller they don't care selling doggy products like the black/yellow aftermarket plastic needle as long as they make profits and don't care about after sales. When I sell something, I don't feel comfortable when I knew that the part I sold will likely to have some issue especially the needle. I don't hold the patent nor violating a patent because it's totally new design or changes to the existing design. It won't cost me for the tooling and final CAD design because I don't hold the parent and the manufacturer is free to sell and distribute the products but I have to initially make the volume order of 1000 to 5000 quantity. I'm happy to keep the parts on stock for a long term supply and fix. I'm not only designing, selling parts but also fix some mowers for customers outside of my full time job. When I started selling parts and fix mower, It's very frustrating when you can't buy directly from big distributor in Morebank (You knew what I mean) because you need a shop front to qualify. I don't have and only have backyard repair. Because of this, I design, modify and improve my own parts and manufacture so I can fix my Victa 2-Stroke and sell the parts.
I’ll probably buy some just to try them, even though the 4 machines I use regularly all have metal needles in them and start and run well. I have had an issue or two with the metal needle, but since then I have tried paying attention to how the needle goes in to the primer face in relation to the 3 ribs running down the side of it. It’s hard to explain, but if I had them installed with one of the ribs pressing directly against the side of the primer face, it would stay straighter and slide up and down easier. It seemed the action of the float could make the needle go up and down on a slight angle in the primer face if it was oriented without a rib facing as I described above. This was with the primer cap off the machine, having a look at the cap, needle and float moving. I’m sure it would move when is use anyway. Not sure if that makes sense to anyone.
I had another one stick this morning in the Powertorque 24 I set up a few weeks ago. No way could I shake the needle loose with tapping on the carby. Pulled the primer cap off , took the needle out and put it back together and it started straight up, so I am waiting on giving these needle springs a try, if they work as they should it is going to make a lot of Victa owners happy again
As promised, this design will go on production. The unit selling price I expect to be less than half of the Viton Tip needle price. I can even include 1 free for complete rebuild kit. I will keep the Viton Tip needle design to maintain the sealing quality that you can even leave the tap open as long as you like without flooding. Obviously we need this new lever design to pull the needle out when float drops. Without the lever, there's a high chances that the needle will sticked in when the mower will sit in the shed for months with less or no fuel or even with fuel where the lower part of the valve will dry up and the Viton Tip will bind to the seat. We can't tell customer to keep banging the primer cap when mower doesn't starts. We want the mower starts all the time we need they need it even sitting in the shed for months. When the carby venturi and spark plug are always dry with enough fuel in the reservoir, the mower will always starts all the time.
Something I don't normally do is turn the fuel off to run the mower out, maybe this can be part of the problem by having fuel in the float bowl holding the needle in the up position and then it sticks in the seat
I have a Victa leaflet from the 70s saying not to do this. Yet some people say it's the best thing to do before putting it away. I have always gotten by not doing it.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
I do a mix of the two methods. I put it at idle for a minute after mowing to cool things off a bit, then turn the fuel tap off with the engine running. After 20-30 seconds, it will begin to gain revs - I immediately shut it down. As can be expected, after that it would rev up and down for another 15 seconds and rev its head off at the end.
I got into this habit because my grey Standard 2 is picky with shut down procedure. If I leave the carby full, it will take at least 6 pulls in 2 weeks time when its next started. It will go first or second with either running completely or mostly out of fuel.
You have the point here. Sticking needle likely to happen when mower is left sitting for a while the reservoir or bowl is full with fuel prior for storage which always keep the float up and putting sligh pressure to the valve. When the lower part or the Viton Tip dried up, it may likely to stick to the seat. If this is the case, this can be prevented by closing the fuel tap and running the engine until it stop prior for storage. Means the needle will drops.
I haven't seen and read the leaflet or user instruction guide but it make sense with plastic needle that it's a good practice to turn off the fuel tap and run the engine until it stops since the plastic needle can't completely shut off the valve unlike the viton tip needle. When this happens during the storage, it will floods the chamber before overflow depends on horizontal alignment whether the overflow is higher than the jet. This is not the case with viton tip since viton tip can completely shut off the valve but NormK has point out with sticking needle when reservoir or bowl is full prior for storage. With the newly design needle spring lever, it will address all this issue and closing the fuel tap or leaving it open is not applicable anymore means you can do either way.
G-day Carbymaster, Tyler, speedie & NormK, I hope this finally addresses the needle once and for all and results in the holy grail of a trouble free G4-LM series plastic carburettor. Hoard those bits as even 40 years of production can deplete if people keep disposing of their two strokes en masse. We need to spread the gospel that the Victa two stroke need not be marred by a 1cm component!
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Some of you appear to have touched on some of what I'm going to say, but some may be missing.
My thoughts, and they're just my thoughts, are that if you turn off the fuel tap while the mower is still running, the fuel in the carby may be sucked through still, however, it's possible you can get a small vacuum between the tap and the inlet in the float chamber cover. This would be more prominent with the viton tipped needles, they would form a better seal.
Further to all of this, when 2-stroke mix is left to sit idle, the fuel and oil separate. I believe this would be much worse if the fuel tap is left on, but even if it's off, as the 2-stroke oil separates either in the tank and then into the hose, or just the small amount in the hose, that thicker oil could cause the seat or tip of the needle to gum up and stick.
I believe that the solution is to simply turn off the fuel tap, possibly just a few seconds before turning off the mower, not leaving the mower with much fuel in the tank, and before using the mower again, topping the tank up with some fresh 2-stroke mix, and giving the mower a shake/roll back and forth (Front to back), a little passionately but not too harsh, to re-mix the fuel/2-stroke mix which has separated, mix the new 2-stroke mix and old fuel, and to also knock loose the needle if it's become stuck.
Finally, when starting the mower again (On top of adding fuel and shaking/rolling the mower as above), turn on the tap, prime up to 5-7 time (Depending on how long it's been idle, and make sure you do it slowly), shift the throttle between cold to run and back 2-3 times, then pull the starter nice and gently (You don't need to pull it violently, if you do, something's wrong).
Hi Paul if people had to go through this rigmerole every time they wanted to use their 2 stroke you can understand why people flock to buy 4 stroke motors. I can't imagine trying to explain all this to anybody getting a mower, I have enough trouble with some trying to explain how to mix the fuel. I always provide them with a 150mm measuring jug and tell them to mix that much oil in 4 liters of petrol. Only had one person who still couldn't understand that
I have enough trouble with some trying to explain how to mix the fuel.
It's funny, because it's true, but at the same time it's so depressing that it's true lol.
But, the steps are rather simple, and you don't really need to follow all of them religiously, it just depends on how long ago you used the mower, but basically:
1. Turn off the fuel tap when you're done ------------------------------ 2. Top up with some fresh 2-stroke mix before you use the mower next 3. Roll the mower back and forth on the spot passionately, to mix any fuel and oil in the carby/tank/hose that may have separated while idle ------------------------------ 4. Turn on the tap 5. Pump the primer anywhere from 3-7 times slowly, depending on how long ago you previously used it (If it was only a day ago you can often get away with just one pump) 6. Move the throttle back and forth from the cold to run position 2-3 times 7. Pull the starter slowly NOTE - Everything above is standard procedure and should be followed according to Victa, with the exception of the two bolded points
Paul, I really appreciate for your methods. If I printout your instruction and give it to my wife to read, follow and operate our VICTA 2-stroke utility mower, she will diffinitely tell me, "Why don't you do it?". If we can simplify the operation of these G4/LM series mowers, it will encourage people to keep their 2-stroke and also to encourage mower shops to fix them. There are still plenty of these units around. NormK, I agree with you even a simple mixing of oil and petrol they found it confusing. How much more to follow an instruction and rules. Now I have emailed to the manufacturer regarding my float needle lever design and they're looking into it. With your help and support, these viton tip needle and spring lever will rewrite the rules of G4/LM Victa series. No more rules to follow, no more paying attention with needle ribs orientation (as mentioned by John), easy to fix, minimal repair return, no more floodings or needle sticking, less smoke during starting, minimal fuel consumption and will always starts when you need it.
Another problem with the diminishing use of 2 stroke mowers is the disappearance of the once ubiquitous correctly dosed 200ml bottles or sachets of two stroke oil you simply add to the fuel can before filling up, and away you go. I reckon a lot of the population who used to have two stroke mowers would not have chosen them if not for these bottles or the old BP Zoom fuel bowsers.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
I was in bunnings on sunday (in the mower aisle seeing if there were any clearance items) and the guy next to me (3 kids in tow) picked up this valvoline 200ml bottle, and had a heart attack when he saw the price. $10 for 200mL oil bottle.
The BP Zoom was certainly the best, but times have moved on I have always said is the reason they sell 2 stroke oil in small bottles is because they can charge pretty much what they want for it. I can't wait for the Carbymaster designed spring lever to be available, I have another mower coming back with a broken pull cord, obviously float needle stuck and they just keep pulling till the cord breaks
Has anyone tried the ethanol shield 2 stroke oil with fuel stabiliser from Bunnings? $3 per 100ml, semi synthetic. At the rate the average user would go through fuel, I imagine it would last a while. I’m still using full synthetic 2 stroke oil and stabil, and my Powertorque mower and edger start with 1 prime and 1 easy pull 99% of the time. My full crank starts at about a quarter pull pretty much regardless of what I do. I guess it’s just a matter of finding the method that works for each machine, but I don’t have a problem experimenting with them - others may just want to push/pull a lever and pull the starter. I still think fuel stabiliser has a lot to do with how easy my machines start.
I got the 1l bottle of full synth 2 stroke oil at Aldi for $13 about four months ago and have yet to mix my first dose. I'm about to finish the last of my mineral based 2 stroke mix before turning to this. I got the Caltex brand 200ml bottle at my local IGA for the already reduced amount of $6.00. I won't be doing that again. I will use 95 premium fuel on my next fill instead of 91.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Hi Carbymaster, have you actually tried your latest design in a working situation. I will see if I can make one up tomorrow using your measurements and see how it goes. Not sure how well my snips will cut it as it is very small, might need to use my die grinder
You are welcome to make one or more. This is very time consuming when when manually made. The worst case to test it when it's outside the carby and dry. Without the lever, I can push the float with my thumb and stick the needle in and there's no chance the needle will fall off by itself unless you knock the primer cap but with the needle lever installed, no matter how hard you push the float before breakage point, the needle will always drops when you release the float. Sometimes real situation can be proven with experimental testing and justification with all possible factors taken into account. Please see attached photo of the tools I used to make it. 0.2mm of brass shim, scissor, side cutter, vernier calliper for measurement and scribing, fishing long nose plier, 2.5mm drill bit for forming with the round grip of the plier at the same time bending the fork. Final trimming of the fork and lever required to practical lenght. To install the lever, install the lever with the needle first. Tilt the lever with needle enough to insert the float hook pivots. All the best.
I used to get the little bottles of semi-synth Ryobi oil at bunnings for $5 each, then eventually decided to get a litre bottle of Penrite Greenskeeper for $14. I went the next time, and semi-synth was on special for $14.50, so I took back the unopened greenskeeper and have been using the semi ever since.
Has taken a year, but I am just about finished it, and have bought the top line Penrite full ester synthetic Motorcycle oil - $24 on special. Thats $4.8 for 200ml - cheaper than most of the 200ml bottles
Just about every drop of the fuel gets used around here - I drain the tanks after use, so I don't end up with tanks with off fuel in (although I did yesterday in a quantum engined masport )
I use Caltex 98 - because I don't want any of those pesky little BP ravenous piranhas in my tank But I notice no difference between 95 and 98
Hi Carbymaster, first one I made didn't work, second one seems to work ok I will make another one a bit longer in the needle slot so that I can get enough length to offset the slotted sections to sit at 90 degrees to the needle and level with the top of the formed ring in it, this seems to be where it works the best and it is very positive in its action. Bit fiddly on installation but if this solves the problem then that is all we can ask for. I now need to find some grass to cut to see if it is going to function in a working situation
How good is the smell of the full ester synthetic oil. Why do you choose the Caltex 98 over BP ultimate? Are these the dirt busters on the TV ad? I’ve just finished the 2nd 1 litre bottle of rover full synthetic, got them from masters for $10 each or something when they were closing down a few years back. Going to look at a penrite oil now since that’s what I use for most other oils.
No idea jds303 - I haven't even opened the bottle yet. I have about 120ml left in the semi synthetic bottle. The semi smells fine, bit of smoke on start up, but then no more. My nose doesn't work well, but I am told (when I am brought out a cup of tea) that the mower doesn't smell too bad. But on mineral oil, it apparently did (shell little 200ml bottle I had to grab from coles when I ran out a few years ago).
With regard to the petrol, I was only joking with the BP ad of how the fuel is filled with 'thousands of ravenous piranhas'. All the muck they supposedly scrub out of the car fuel lines just end up in the filter.
I pick Caltex because it is right at the shopping centre; Shell is down the road a couple km, and BP is in a whole other direction. car runs fine on it, mower run great, so I stick with it. I don't trust the little independent ones since I bought 5l and the mower kept stopping. Pulled the plug and it was fouled with a weird burnt orange colour.
And I have heard bad things about shells v-power causing more gum to form than other 98's. Over here, it all comes from the BP Kwinana anyway - just a different additive packs added.
I certainly agree about the Aldi Gardenline synthetic 2 stroke oil being a steal, especially compared to that! 2 Stroke for motorcycles seems a bit overkill for a Victa mower. I actually put the Aldi oil back on the shelf the first time around as I wasn't sure what true value it was, and consequently missed out when they all sold and I learnt how much cheaper it was over competitors. Needless to say, I jumped on the next chance to get some. I have taken to nicknaming Super cheap as Super costly auto. They should be banned by state consumer agencies from using that name!
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
) 
But I notice no difference between 95 and 98
