How's things mate? So I have finally been able to put the cross brackets on for the cutter deck. I still need to put on the other 'u' shaped brackets on yet. But I noticed that the belt is very loose. Is there supposed to be a tensioner there somewhere to take the slack out of the belt? I still have to cut the chain as well. Just wondering bout the tension on the belt?
I think you've just got the clutch in the disengaged position. In this position the belts do go very slack. Below are photos of the clutch in both the engaged and disengaged positions. Note there is a lot of travel.
We haven't discussed connecting the clutch lever mechanism. It's just an over-centre arreangement with a spring to apply pressure. I'm not sure if I saw the spring in your collection- I don't think so. Any firm spring of the right dimensions. Bunnings has a good range. Note my v bodgy 'spacers' behind my spring. I think I put them there as a teenager when I was struggling with belt slippage. There are twohole positions for the eyebolt on your machine and three on mine. I've never seen any use for the other holes on mine. Yours is on the bottom one too. The bottom one gives maximum travel. Conversely the top one will give least travel but best mechanical advantage. It also allows the arm to overcentre more but excess over centreing just reduces belt tension. Leave it in the bottom hole and see how you go.
You need to hook up the cutter brake wire at this point . The wire is still on your cutter clutch assembly. There should be a bolt with couple of links of chain (same as the height adjust) on the brake arm on the deck. Connect this to the wire. Probably best to get another piece of wire. It's just wire . I'll take a photo tonight. Also, did you end up putting the bushes in the cutter clutch pivot points that we were talking about?
Yes I put the bushes in. The nuts are tight and there�s still movement in the brackets that allow it to pivot. With regards to the engaging lever. Is there supposed to be another bush in the arm in front of the spring? The hole seems quite big and sloppy for the arm and spring. If not I�ll get a spring and some big washers as well.
Another thing I was going to ask. A little of topic from where we are up to but I noticed the rear wheel has major cracking where the key goes on the drive wheel. And the tyres are in pretty bad shape. Are they standard tyres that I can get from a mower shop and is the wheel standard or a specific make due to the taper on the rear axle?
Also the small drive sprocket. Is it a standard 10 or 9 tooth sprocket?
These last bits I�m not overalls worried about at the moment. However when the rest of it goes together I won�t be able to properly test until I fix it. So mainly for future reference when the rest of it is sorted
Well, we are all learning in this world. On the strength of your question about the size of the hole in the eyebolt I just had a stooge round my collection and a look-see at the parts dogalogue and discovered there was an earlier clutch arrangement with the spring above the over-centre rod. The spring picked up the top hole in the clutch arm so that accounts for at least one of the extra holes. Also, the eyebolt in the earlier version had a nylon bush in the eyebolt. On the later one ( which is the one we are talking about), the eyebolt hole appears to remain the same large diameter but without the nylon bush. Illustration 1 and Illusration 9 of the parts list shows this. In short, rock on! .
Make sure the eyebolt can pivot in the arm.
My own machine has a sprocket that was bought at an engineering supplier. If I recall it's standard sprocket but they couldn't get one with the keyway so cut one for me. It was a long time ago and way before I started my collection of parts donors. It's a 10 tooth sprocket. If you can't get one I can have a dig around but in my wander 'round the shed just now I didn't notice any- which is surprising.
Wheel and axle hassles are a common theme unfortunately. I am a bit curious as the photo of the wheel doesn't look like any Greenfield wheel I've seen. Can we have a photo of the other side please?
I can help with a wheel.
The early wheels with the taper seem to have been a hassle and can certainly present challenges when trying to remove the wheel. That said, my own daily drive has this style of wheel and has never given an ounce of trouble. Later on they went to the wheel with the three bolt mounting which is much easier to remove but the mounting adapters do crack.
Tyres and tubes are standard items and can be procured from many places including the good folks at the ODK shop.
Ok that�s interesting about the wheel here is the other side.
With regards to the rest of it I think I have it right. I�ll leave the bush out for the moment and put a spring in the cutter clutch arm and see how it goes. I think I have the rest of it ok. I couldn�t work out the wire that you were talking about though. I think I worked out the bracket on the cutter deck it attaches to but I could work out where the other end attaches to. Hopefully the photos show ok
Go back through have a look at the photos that you posted in the very beginning of your parts collection. They show the cutter clutch frame with a piece of wire attached to the centre arm. Note the attachment is via a couple of chain links. Attach this wire (or a fresh piece of the correct size to the arm on the cutter brake in the photo above. Again this is attached via a couple of chain links. Just copy the other end.
Can I get you to tell me the rear tyre size please?
I noticed a couple of things in the last batch of photos:
You need a bolt through the front of the height adjust ratchet
There is a nylon bush missing from the steering arm. These are supposed to be a press fit into the frame think but they come loose and do fall out.
Your attachment of the chain links is slightly different. The photos below show how it was originally fitted. This allows the top and bottom chain links to pivot freely
The rest of the adjustments I will work on tomorrow cos I ran out of time today. The other thing is this the steering arm with the bush you were talking about? If so there is a nylon bush in it that I machined up. Looking at it now I do believe I put it in back to front
Mmmm, so it is a 6" rim. It looked like it in the photo and that's why I asked. The Tractor 11 ran an 8" rim (6.50x8 tyre). It was the Tractor 8's like my old girl that ran the 6" rim.
To try and shed some light on this puzzle, can you tell me what the front tyre size is?
It is a Tractor 11 and not a Tractor 8?
If you've got the nylon bush in there, happy days! I don't think it matters a great deal which way round it goes. Perhaps just keep an eye on them as they do want to migrate out. If they do something as simple as a worm drive clamp or a split pin solves the problem.
The front tyres are 11x5.00-5. I do believe it is a tractor 11 however not 100% sure I got it given to me in pieces. Now that I think of it I actually spoke to someone from green field themselves in Brisbane that I emailed a picture of it to and they told me it was an 11. But there is nothing that says on it which one it is. The only stickers is what is in the photo
It's got 5" front wheels like my Tractor 8. The Tractor 11's had a 6" front wheel. Something else I noticed is that your frame doesn't have the 'running boards' behind the pedals. These were on the 11's but not on the 8's, I think. Photos below of two of my Tractor 11 donors showing this. In short it appears to be a Tractor 8 frame. However, the engine is 11HP (400cc). Possibly it has been re- engined? Might be interesting to get the model,type and code off the engine one day.
All this is just a distraction really. It doesn't really matter. The only way it's of any importance is that you need a 6" rear wheel and not the 8". I'll have a dig around. Not sure if I have one as I haven't parted out any Tractor 8's
Ok that�s interesting about the model. Does that mean it�s an earlier model?
I have had a few distractions this weekend but I think I�m on par to start the next bit. See what you think. I think I may need to put a spacer behind the cutter engagement spring to tension the belt a bit more but I�ll see how it goes
Ok no worries. Yes the brake lever come of the pulley a fair amount. Now when it comes to the motor and starter I will get you the photos this arvo when I get home. However do you by chance have a wiring diagram for it. I have noticed I have a started motor and batteries but there is no wiring at all so I am going to have to make a wiring harness for it
Ok here are the remaining parts I have. I�m not to sure how the carby is yet. When I get the chance will have to pull it apart and have a look. Also not sure if there is anything missing yet
Yesterday was a pretty good day. Hope yours was too.
Another series of questions:
Do you know the history of why the engine was dismantled by the previous owner? It's just handy to know the history.
Do you have any or all of the little bits - e.g. The bolts for the cowl, carb, etc. and the springs and link for the carb?
And a bit off topic, can you photograph the start solenoid and ignition switch please (especially the back) so we can draw you up a wiring diagram for the loom.
It's been a while since I last played with a Briggs but �m sure it'll come back to me . And if I stumble the folks on this forum with proper Briggs knowledge will help out I'm sure.
prd, I am always nervous when I see a project like this in a million bits and then you look at the motor and that has also been apart.Why? what then makes me nervous is the fact you have no idea as to the skill level of who had it apart. I would bench run it before going to the trouble of fitting it back into the mower
Not overly sure of the history. I know the original owner had it running perfectly and used to mow his lawn constantly with it. One day he had come home and another guy that was living with him had it pulled to pieces. He wasn�t impressed. After that he was going to dump it cos it had been sitting there for so long in pieces and the guy who pulled it apart took of with a lot of it and he never saw him again. Poor guy wasn�t happy. Unfortunately that�s the only history I know of it.
I have had the end cover off the engine to have a look at the pistons and it still looks brand new like it has never ran a day in its life just sitting in the weather.
The pictures below are of the ignition I assume and there is no key for it either which might pose a little problem especially trying to keep it genuine.
With regards to your other questions. I have a feeling this might be a slow haul. I only have a few of the bolts. The springs are the only ones in the pictures above. I have checked the starter motor by dead shorting it and it kicked straight away. So I know that will start. Just not to sure what parts are still missing. Sorry a bit of a tough one with an engine
The bloke who pulled it apart broke the cardinal rule! If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
Norm is right, it's a bit disconcerting when part of a restoration or rebuild is partly finished by persons unknown and that's why I was asking about the history. But it's what we have to work with and for a few dollars to sort out the missing bits it's well worth the effort to give this a shot. The only other option is to tear the bottom end down again! Not really an option.
You're right, this could be a bit of a long haul but I'm well up for it!
I think we take this in stages:
First let's get the pull start and cowl mounted and confirm it turns over freely and shows signs of compression. Also, we'll confirm it is giving spark. Then we move onto the carb and other stuff.
Wadda reckon
I'll post more before the weekend.
Cheers,
P.S. If AVB and other folks with good Briggs knowledge would like to help here, please do.
P.P.S Norm, the engine is already on the ship. That horse is gone!
I�m in agreeable with you both. I don�t see why he pulled it apart in the first place. I do believe the motor is in good enough condition to get going again. When I checked the inside of the engine when I first received it I also checked the pistons and bore. They are all in good condition. I�m keen to give it a go maybe one step at a time. When I get the chance I�ll put the pull start on and check the spark plug. And we can go from there if all good. I will let you know when I have had the chance to do this and see where we go from there.
Fingers crossed 🤞 it won�t be to much trouble
So at a glance, it looks like the sump and head have been off judging by the red gasket goo, that is fine on the sump/crankcase cover but I hate seeing it on a head gasket. If it was mine i would see if it has compression, if it is good i would be pulling it off and cleaning it up with a new gasket. they are easy and cheap from you're nearest mower store.
I would also just check the Cam timing, just to be sure, otherwise these engines are very simple. i would recommend a new gasket between carburettor &block. It appears you have the governor spring (very important), and before you try and start it make sure to adjust the governor. I cant see the throttle & choke linkages. if you dont have them you should be able to find them at you're local briggs dealer 2nd hand.
otherwise it has electronic ignition, just make sure you have the kill wire on it
Cheers nath!, we might need your help as we go along here. Stick around .
Jared, because we're doing this via remote control we'll start out slow and ramp up as we both find our feet here. Please forgive me if I'm going too slow.
Firstly, when trying to buy bits always take the Model,type,code number with you. The Briggs computerised parts system is entirely based on it.
If you're going to replace the head gasket, now is the time to do it. Clean off all old gasket material first. I'm keen on the idea of torquing down the head if you have an INCH- pound torque wrench (NOT foot-pounds). That is, of course unless you have a 'calibrated' elbow
I'll look up the torque figure for you.
Something else I'd also do at this time is try and work a little engine oil (just a few drop into the 'square' shaft on the top the flywheel. There is a tiny hole in the top of it. The oil is needed in there. A syringe with a needle is ideal if you have one. They can be obtained from animal feed and produce outlets. If you don't have one, just work a few drops in as best you can. The back story is there is a bush in there and an oiler felt. If this dries out the engine squeals like a kid that's dropped its ice block.
From there the gauze goes on the top of the flywheel. It's secured to the free-wheel device by 4 screws/bolts. If you can get these new when you get the head gasket, all the better. If not I'll get back to you with details on what you need. Something tells me they are a pk style screw but something else tells me it's an 8/32 screw or the like. I can remember! Long time, no Briggs
From there pop the cowl on. We'll assume the pull start is assembled and working unless you want to flip it over and photograph the underneath. It's secured with little 1/4 or 3/16 unc bolts. Again, buy new if you can otherwise I can confirm it for you.
Make sure the HT lead I'd positioned correctly and also the cut-off wire ('p' lead). Ensure the 'p' lead can't chaffe or foul.
From here we can check for spark and compression.
Please let me know if we need to speed this up. Also, the way we are doing this step by step there is going to be several trips to the shop to get bits. I still,think it's the best way.
Having said that you can get a carb gasket and the attach bolts now so you have them ready..
Cheers,
P.S. Just to confirm, I could speak with some confidence when it came to building up the frame. Now that we are at the engine stage I'm working from more distant recollections and somewhat less experience though I've had a few part in my time. That said, if we take this one step at a time we'll get there . And if I stumble there are good folks out there who can help.
Ok all good. Slow steps are good. I managed to score the day of work today so was hoping I would do what I could today. Unfortunately I�m waiting for my pay to come in so I can go down to the Briggs distributor near home to get what I need. I have managed to sort out the head gasket and get the gauze in place. I have checked compression which is good and I have checked spark but have none. So I will get a spark plug on my travels when I get the carby gasket and such. Forgive my innocence or ignorance which ever you prefer 😁 the HT lead and p lead. Are these the ones your talking about that in the photo? The spark plug lead and the single wire that comes of the solenoid?
Also the solenoid I�ve shown in the picture doesn�t look to healthy. Is it ok or needs changing? Or is there a way of testing it?
Hi Jared, I think you are talking about the coil, the single wire is the kill switch wire. If you can spin the motor over while holding the plug steel section onto the motor and see if you get any spark. If not try a bit if rod inside the plug cap and repeat the spinning procedure and see if you get a spark jump onto the head, if no spark you then have to look at the coil. You will need to undo it and make sure the surfaces where it bolts on are clean, then reset the air gap on it with the flywheel turned around so that the magnets on the flywheel grab the legs on the coil, pull one leg away from the magnet and put a feeler gauge (stanley knife blade will be good enough for this test) then do the same with the other leg and then you can tighten the coil holding studs up. remove the feeler gauges and then you can repeat the earlier tests regarding the spinning the motor with a bit of rod sticking out of the plug cap. Make sure the kill switch wire is not touching the motor as this will kill the spark.After spinning it with the rod out of the plug cap and you have no sign of spark you will need to find another coil. You may find this was the reason this whole mower was pulled apart in the first place because it wouldn't run. People do strange things at times
The 'p' lead is the small kill wire. Its end needs to be well clear of the engine (ground) for testing and the insulation needs to be in good condition. This wire is grounded to 'kill' the engine.
A thin card (business card is another common suggestion for setting up the air gap between the coil frame and the flywheel magnet. Basically it needs to be as close as is sensibly possible to the flywheel without touching.
You're right, the coil doesn't look flash but that's not really an indicatior. It would definitely be worth making sure the earth of the coil to the engine and the wiring terminal under the bolt head is sound. A rub with sandpaper in the usual fashion
. I'll take a photo tonight.
