So I went down to the local Briggs distributer today to see if I can get a list of parts for the engine. He told me that due to the age of the engine there might be a good chance I can�t get the parts I�m chasing. Not sure if it�s true or he wasn�t willing to help in that department. However he did sell me this engine instead which I can either get going or Ye parts of it. My engine being 8hp this one is actually 12 hp but the carby and setup and very similar either way it should be a big help with regards to getting my mower back running again. He did say that it runs but sounds a bit clunky
Being only an 84 vintage, short of something serious like a block, everything you might need will be available. I have sourced new parts for 70's models recently through my local dealer. Here is a link to the parts manual, direct from briggs australia
If you dont have spark I would suspect coil, as it is not the original one anyway. Being 84 briggs were long finished with points, and you're coil is an old points coil with a briggs Magnetron kit retrofitted. The one on youre 12hp should bolt straight on.
Just be aware the 12 is more different to you're 8 that it would seem. They are physically bigger, the carb i'm pretty sure is a bit different too. So things like the air filter housing probably wont just bolt on, unfortunately.
If it sounds clunky it could just be rings, or it may be more serious like a big end or (typically due to a lack of service) play in the synchros, which make the engine a write off.
Ok thanks for the link and info. I�ll strip the red one down and see how it bolts together. If not I�ll see how the red one is mechanically and go from there. I�m hoping to keep the mower as original as possible however I know that the engine is not the original anyway but will see how it goes when I strip the parts of it
I can't say for absolute certain that that is not the original engine for that machine. It is of the correct vintage for your machine (I.e. Early to mid eighties). The point of confusion is that the frame appears to be a Tractor 8 frame. That said, the parts data I have (which is the same as that held by ODK) doesn't cover some of the mod status that is on your machine because your machine was produced after the catalogue I have was printed. A newer catalogue would be handy. Point is, Greenfield made changes all the time and I can't say for certain that this engine wasn't original on this machine....but if you asked me to bet a 50 dollar note on it I'd say it's not the original.
It's always difficult trying to figure out an approach when in a situation like this - two engines and both an unknown quantity. Perhaps a suggestion is to spend a few more hours working out if the black one might be a goer. If the coil is no good on the black one then check if the red one has spark. If it does, pop the coil from it into the black one and take it from there and build up the black one from the bits you have from it and the red one. What's the worst that can happen?
Whichever you decide to try to get going first, you need to have a plan and stick to it.
Ok thank you. I�ll take it all one step at a time. I don�t have spark at the moment and the spark plug looks pretty bad so I�ll get a new spark plug and the check the spark and coil and go from there. I will take photos with each step and try to replicate how the motor is put together by copying the red one. Thanks for the help
Hey people sorry it's been a while since I've posted an update as to how things are going. Thanks for everyone's help once again. So I changed the spark plug still had no spark. So I have changed the coil as well and now I have spark. The coil did bolt straight on but the kill wire coming from the old black one was a bit different to the red one so I have had to use the governor plate I think it's called as well. I'm also using the carby from the re one as it seems to be in better condition. Just in the process of working out the situation of the governing arms and spring as I had none of these in my collection. It's deinately a job where you seem to need more then 2 hands hopefully it's works out. If anyone has any tricks of the trade to make it easier to handle or see anything wrong. Other then that I'm getting there slowly.
The only trick there really is probably to just make sure the control plate is bolted on before you put the carb on, these are probably one of the simpler engines; believe me, there are worse!
To set the govenor arm on the shaft, you will need everything bolted on, but loosen the little bolt that clamps the arm. then hold the arm to wide open throttle and twist the govenor shaft (that goes inside the block) the same way until it stops. then simply tighten the little bolt. It can be a bit fiddly, and when you first start it have the kill wire at the ready in case something went wrong.
Ok no worries just curious as well. The new coil I have put on has a different type of kill wire hence I have had to use the red engines control plate. How does the kill wire work in conjunction with the throttle controls? Hopefully the photos show enough if not let me know
So you can set them up depending on what they are going in. The kill wire just needs to go to ground. In older ride ons this was done through the throttle control, so you have choke-fast-slow-stop all in one.
Most modern rideons have stop through the ignition key, so instead of the kill wire going to the throttle control it will wire to a key or switch on the machine.
Ok that makes sense. So when I go to test the engine is it safe to say that if I take the wire out of the control plate and touch it against an earth it will cut the motor out. But having it the way it is at the moment requires a arch effectively? Sorry if I sound new at this. I haven't had much to do with Briggs motors. So far is this looking reasonably ok? I have adjuste the governor arm the way you said earlier.
Regards
Ps. Sorry it's dragging on a bit I haven't had much of a chance to do anything on it lately. Typical interruptions
Hey happy Christmas everyone. Had a bit of time to spare todo some more work on my greenfield tractor 11. Hav become a bit stuck. Was wondering if anyone know where this wire from the engine is supposed to connect to?
Also when I went to test the engine the starter motor goes to engage then stalls. Does anyone know what might be the reason?
Hi Jared, the wire is probably the alternator wire, don't worry about it at the moment, probably doesn't work anyway. As for the starter stalling, does the motor turn over by hand ? are the wires on the battery and to the starter motor and the earth wire to the frame good and tight so they have a good connection? are you testing it through the solonoid is this working ok? Are you trying to start it with the cutter deck engaged?
Ok. I haven't got a solenoid at the moment. Still trying to work out extra bits that I need. The only thing I did at the moment was connect the wires to the ignition switch and straight to the starter motor. With the starter motor on its own it seems to work fine. It only seems to be when it goes to engage with the motor. Yes the engine is very easy to turn by hand. I thought theee might be too much compression so took the spark plug out as well but still did the same thing.
Also is there supposed to be an alternator and a solenoid connected? If so is this easy enough to get for this model from a local mower shop?
Jared, don't worry about the alternator, too difficult to bother with. Why is there no solonoid, you won't start it without one using the ignition switch wires. Do you have the heavy negative wire from the battery to the motor or to the chassis somewhere or are you doing this with jumper leads? So you can test the starter motor you then need the heavy positive wire connected to the battery and with care you put the other end onto the starter motor bolt with the nut on it so you don't damage the thread. It will spark but this will tell you if the starter will crank the motor over. If you hold the wire on tight with a pair of pliers , if everything else is correct with the motor it should start, then release the wire from the starter, but be aware that the end of the wire is live so make sure it doesn't touch the body of the motor. Starter solonoids easy to pick up off ebay, I will have a look around for you.Scrolling back another thing I have just noticed in post number 93660 your coil is on upside down and will not work like that. Kill switch wire goes on the bottom side There you go easy peasey I'm sure you are not in a hurry for it www.ebay.com.au/itm/Solonoid-Soleno...iner-40-HP-Outboard-Engine/153007688909?
Ok thanks heaps for that I'll see how I go and will turn the coil up the right way. I'll get on now and get the solenoid. Thanks heaps for your help I will see how I go
No the mover was given to me in pieces. I have looked through everything and haven't got one in the parts. I believe the guy who pulled it apart must have taken it of
Ok so the next issue will be the battery leads, you will need 3. one from the negative on the battery to the chassis or the motor somewhere. second one from the battery positive to one side of the solonoid. Third one goes from the other side of the solonoid to the starter motor. I think you need to establish that this motor will crank over and start before going too far with these other bits. I'm not sure what you have but a set of jumper leads is the best way to get it running if it will
Ok thank you. I have ordered the solenoid. But it says it won't be delivered till mid January to mid feb unfortunately I also need to shop around for some heavy duty cable. Other then the motor I need a 10 tooth sprocket and rear wheel. Do you have any idea where I might be able to locate them from? Especially the rear wheel since it locates on a taper on the rear axle?
What is wrong with the wheel, they can be very difficult to remove. As for the solonoid that won't stop you from getting the motor running, it just means that you will be able to start it with the key later. I'm not sure about the 10 tooth sprocket, it has probably been used on all the Greenies for many years so is probably available from any Greenfield dealer, just check that they are the same, I see no reason why they would have changed it on different models
Ok then the wheel is chopped out where where the key sit as shown in the photo. If I can't get a replacement I will have to find someone to can weld alloy to repair it
Congratulations, both wheels are off, on one I had to cut the axle out of the chassis so I could get it in the press to get it off, ended up taking me a couple of days. Next question is how are the threads on each end of the axle? I find most are usually damaged by people hammering them trying to get the wheel off. Wheels come up from time to time on ebay but not that often. You have a couple of options, depending on how much slop there is in the hub to the shaft, you could cut some strips from a coke can and wrap it around the shaft, then hammer in the key and force the wheel back on. As long as it is tight and there is no movement then it should be ok. The second idea is one I have never tried but wanted to and that is grease the hub up and let the wheel float on the axle giving you a single wheel drive which will vastly improve the steering. This would only be suitable if you are using it on flat ground as a single wheel drive may not get enough traction or braking on hilly ground but the braking on these is near useless anyway. The advantage is with the heel and toe you can use that for braking, but once again you would only be using one wheel for braking. Just thoughts throwing it out there
The threads are a little damaged but I believe they should be ok to use still. I will try both suggestions and see which one seems to work the best. Either way I can't test either idea till I get the solenoid so I can crank the engine over and see how the drive train etc. goes. Just the thought of what options I have for the future. Thanks for your help
Jared you don't have to wait for the solonoid, a set of jumper leads or one of those jump starter pack is all you need to get it fired up. Once the motor is running you can disconnect the leads, battery is only needed for starting. The threads are important because even though they don't take a lot of load they are needed to keep the hub tight on the taper, this is why you have one wheel flogged out, it was not held tight on the taper and was relying on the keyway to hold it and as it rocks back and forth, this is what causes the damage. You may need to get a die nut to clean the threads up again.
. Learn something new every day!
