OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions On Ride On Mowers Questions On Victa Ride On Mower Frames Deck Bearings

Hi LRT, I would assume if it was from Deutscher it would be a genuine one. Looks to me to be veed both sides. The machine is a 40/16 but as for what year no idea, but it is a dark green one, not sure if this identifies the model but all the ones I have seen are this dark green. It is the same as the second one on this page the 4016TRX
http://rideonmowershop.com.au/brands/victa

It's interesting it is V'd both sides.

I've got a Stihl/Viking 42" ride-on sitting here with a dead motor and it's deck is really simple. I'd take it any day over a modern John Deere/Sabre mower. The only issue I've had with it when I was doing heavy duty mowing and landscaping work was the wheel slip as it didn't have a locking diff.

The Tecumseh/Peerless 6 speed hydro transmission has handled towing a loaded 300kg trailer up rocky slopes and carting 50kg+ bluestone blocks on a custom built bolt on carrier.

By the way, the chassis is still in good condition without any cracks after having weights on the front and frequently driving on only the rear wheels when carting the bluestone.

The only reason I stopped using it was when the Briggs was blowing all the oil out the breather ever 15 minutes. (This motor had significant blow-by since new by the way with no assistance from the dealer)

Then I bought a second hand Greenfield to use for the heavy duty mowing & hired with the intent to purchase a Vermeer mini skid steer for the landscaping work until the customer lost all their money in the collapse of the Banksia Financial Group.

NormK, Provide the crossing of the 4016TRX is correct then it is a Murray 40379x88 with what hey call a double deck design. Haven't any here of this but the following site's IPL might help figuring what you need on the hangers.

Murray 40379x88 IPL - 1999

Thanks AVB, that is the deck alright but the exploded diagram doesn't show me the front section of how it raises and lowers. Anyway my mate has fitted a turnbuckle up the front so he could set the height in a fixed position so I believe it is working satisfactorily at the moment. It is just used to run over a few acres to keep the grass down to about 4" to keep the council off his back.
Thanks again for your help

Ah I see what you're referring to. It is rearward tension of the deck set by the rear adjusters sets front tilt. It is not a very good lift system at all as only lift in front can be set by adjusting the rear. The interconnect bars forces at the rear are use to force to tilt the deck up as the height is set higher.

As I said a very poor design. I have not seen that lift used much any more but still have some Husqvarna mowers that uses a similar system with the same problems.

Thinking overnight this is suspended deck design. Many of the suspended deck design have replace that stiff plate with a simple adjustable rod where you can change the amount of pull that applied to the deck. I thinking more like suspension bridge where the deck finds a happy place and floats around this point. Think of it like rope being held both ends with board in the middle. Shorten the rope one end and the board changes it angle as more weight is at the short side allowing the long side of the rope to raise up as it has less weight to support.

These decks tends to scalp the high points between wheel base and skip over low spots. It takes gauge wheels to prevent some of the scalping. This design works best on fairly level lawns and not ones with lots dips and bumps.

One good thing about the design though is not as prone to deck damage from hitting tree roots where floating design tends to get a lot impact damage. I know because this because I have own both designs. I spend a lot time repairing the floating front wheel brackets because tree roots.