What is the best way to make a freshly painted mower deck resistant to petrol, oil etc.
If I just paint it with normal aerosol paint, I assume petrol will destroy the finish quite quickly. Or are most acrylic spray cans petrol resistant when dry?
If I use something like a Septone Clear Coat Acrylic, will that help matters?
Hi, I use auto lacquer paint on the petrol tanks. I tried enamel paint but the petrol just blistered the paint if you don't want to be bothered buying and mixing the paint with the hardener it can be cheaper the take the deck to a auto paint shop and get done Cheers ken
This is handy to know. I have been plagued by problems associated with fuel coming into contact with enamel paint. I find that once standard automotive enamel paint is completely cured it is pretty well resistant. Problem is it takes a LONG time to cure fully and even one drop of fuel can cause a lot of damage.
I need to know more about this sort of stuff - I really like getting the mechanicals spot on, but the aesthetics can can make such a huge difference to a restoration.
I have signed up to a Prepping/Painting/Finishing course for next week-end - should answer a lot of questions
I was going to suggest some sort of pre-packaged 2K aerosol mixed for the purpose at a good paint shop but doing the course first seems a better idea.
Where are you doing the course, may I ask? Local TAFE? I used to do quite a few night and short courses through the TAFE system once but the collapse of the state based vocational sector in these parts (QLD) has put paid to that.......sigh.......
Here is a link to a page about the course I'm planning on doing. Its run by a mob not far from my place called VG Auto Paints - who, as their name implies is a supplier of all things for Auto Painting.,
I had my introduction to car panel prep under the tutelage of a tradie panel beater, who was a partner in the car repair business next door to our family OPE shop.
My first car - EH Holden 179ci Special; minor bingles resulted in crunched front guards - and they had extensive rust anyway; impecunious tertiary student me couldn't afford either comp insurance [had third party property, though] or pro repairs, even as a 'cashie job'.
Picked up a pair of very good SH guards for cheap from a local cockie, who had a 'car graveyard' on his farm.
Then I had to prep them by hand, with periodic inspections by the panelbeater; sanding back with different grits of wet and dry abrasive paper, with a cork block for backing.
I learned a lot from that job!
Cheers, Gadge
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