OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Engines J.A.P. Model 2a Restoration

I've used Molasses quite a bit back in Sydney - I originally read about it on the web and thought "How much good will that do"? and tried it for myself just because it was cheap.

But just as you say, if you leave it in there long enough it comes out really well - some of the bits off my Victa 18 Triplets got a soaking for over 2 months, but they were like new metal when I took them out and washed them off.

Over at my mates place - he had an electrolysis gizmo going - and it seemed to be doing overnight what it took me two months to do with molasses - so I wouldn't mind trying that, but I'm really stuck for space.

I think I'll be forced to just soda blast them - and make sure I really clean them out well.

As for paint - I'd like to stick with the original iridescent blue type colour - if I can't use the Galmet Hmmertone Reef Blue because of the engine temp - maybe I'll give VHT Anodised Blue a go - it probably looks closer to the original blue the the Galmet Hammer tone anyway....

Has anyone used the VHT Anodised paints?? Comments?

Polybus

Electous spelling not right .is the way with Molasses . Use a welder . you will find on you tube.

I have considerable reservations about using electrolysis, at least in the crude way that a lot of YouTubers seem to go about it.

No accurate, if any, control of voltage or current; which can lead to unwanted effects, like hydrogen embrittlement of some types of steels.
And no grasp of the concept of 'current density' i.e. the total current divided by the surface area of the workpiece, to yield a figure in A/m^2.

Any electroplater will tell you that these are the critical control parameters, for this sort of work.

I think I'm going to stick with some soda/sand/bead blasting - I just don't have the room for electrolysis, or the time for Molasses.

I made a flying visit down to Sydney last week-end and while I was there I picked up a couple of sets of crankshaft bearings - and was quite surprised by the price.

The bearings are:
1: 6203
2: RLS6 (which I am told is a modern version of the LS8)

Six bucks each!!! Cheap as chips! I was expecting about $20 or $30 each based on the UK spares websites.

So I bought two lots one for my current restoration, the Model 2a, and another lot for my Model 2s - which is next on the list.

So next job is - Clean/Blast/Undercoat/Paint the crankcase.


Polybus

A great alternative to glass/sand/soda blasting, electrolysis and molasses is ultrasonic cleaning. It's not abrasive, cleans inside and out (as it's immersed in a tank), removes rust and paint with the right solution and is quick and cheap. Admittedly I have a large commercial machine in my workshop but it would clean up everything you have there in around 30 mins and wouldn't cost a great deal. Might be worth considering if someone does it close by

Good point, rolla16v. We do tend to focus exclusively on DIY techniques at times, without considering industrial services.

For sure, and DIY is usually cheaper and far more satisfying. I wouldn't suggest it ordinarily, but if Polybus is going to have the blasting done professionally, ultrasonics may be worth considering.

I've got a couple of little (1 x 3 litre and 1 x 1 litre) ultrasonic cleaners - but I've never tried them for rust.

You say "removes rust and paint with the right solution" - what is the right solution for removing rust??

I just use a bit of water and detergent - and that's pretty good for dirty, but not rusty parts.

Polybus

I buy my chemicals from the supplier of my ultrasonic machine, they have one called ferrocarb for removing paint and rust from steel & cast iron and another chemical for alloy, but it's industrial grade stuff.

There's also quite a bit of difference in power output between smaller home machines and the larger industrial types. Our larger unit is 150L and has some pretty serious power (and makes a hell of a noise) but I don't know if smaller 3L / 1L would do it or not - I suppose there's no harm in trying.

I can chase down the SDS for the ferrocarb solution if you'd like to see what's in it.

Thanks for the offer - but the ones I have are far from Industrial grade machines - they are great for carbys and various little bits and pieces, cleaning yuk and muk off - but I think they would well and truly sh!t themselves if any serious work came near them.

I just priced a soda blaster on eBay - $150 - might be worth buying - I'm sure all the blasting I want to do will come to more than that - add another $50 for the soda - all I need now is a mate with a decent compressor

Anyone had any experience with these - are they the type of junk eBay is infamous for??? Bearing in mind it won't get a great deal of use....but when I do use it - I want it to work.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40LB-Por...DefaultDomain_15&hash=item51bf6610f5


Polybus

Trying to add PDF, see how it goes.
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Thanks to Jonesy for posting these manuals on JAP engines.
ODK is most grateful for these historical records.

They have now been transferred to the History > Models > Engines forum.



The History Engine Model Forum is HERE.

Re your eBay link. I don't know if the soda blaster will do all you want but I can vouch for ozplazaliving as a supplier as I have purchased several things from them and they have always been of high quality and given good service. And at the price, it seems like a great deal. Might even give some thought to one myself.

Hey Jonesy!! Thanks for posting the JAP Manuals!!

And AussieTrev thanks for the tip given that you said good things, and no-one said bad things - I just might have to buy it - didn't need a lot of encouragement did I?

Just thought I'd give a quick update on the JAP 2a.

I've got it fully apart now - and starting to paint it.

I have used a Dupli-Color called Polaris Blue - from the old paint I found on the engine itself, and from some pictures across various Web-sites - I think this is pretty close to the original - pretty uninspiring colour though - when I do the 2s I think I'm going to do it in Army Olive Drab - I like the military look.

Didn't get it sandblasted - or bead blasted, just got stuck in with degreaser and hard work and it came up quite well.

I've got a new set of bearing for it - cheap as chips!! $6.50 and $4.50 from a decent bearing wholesaler in Sydney, so they should be OK.

Here are a few pictures before and after shots of how things have come along.

Crankcase:






Fuel Tank:






Mini-Cowl:






It looks good so far - but I'm a bit worried - I've used White Knight Rust Guard Red Oxide spray cans for all the primer - even on the cooling fins - and on top of that I've got a flat black, which may or may not be heat proof - its not a specific heat proof pain, but it's supposed to withstand up to about 250 deg C - being a little 98cc engine - and the fact that it won;t be working really hard in its new role as a show pony - I'm hoping I'll get away with it....



Oh well - time will tell....

Next job is now getting the bearings back in - without a press.

Well - just have to see how that goes - and it will have to wait till I get back to Port Douglas - I'm working on The Triplets at the moment.

Anyone who wants to see how the JAP is going can check out my Website - My Shed

Check out the J.A.P. 2a Restoration here.


Polybus

Hello Polybus

Thank you for the updates.
I really like the studio-look photos: brilliant!
This should look a treat when finished.

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JACK