OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions On Ride On Mowers Questions on Greenfield Ride On Mower Frames Greenfield Blade Carrier Bent . . .

Hi All,

First of all, thanks for running and participating in this site. I have a Greenfield 14.5/32 Evo Fastcut that needs some TLC and I couldn't have done half of what I have so far except for the info that I found on the Outdoor King site to guide me . . . an amazing resource, Thanks!!!

My problem is that I accidently ran over a kerb while mowing and bent not only one of the blades but also bent the carrier plate pretty good so I need to straighten it. Pictures at bottom. Using info I found here I now know how the deck assembly goes together and comes apart. I have the blade belt pulley removed but I'm looking for the easiest way to remove the blade carrier so I can put it in a press and straighten it.

So . . . does anyone know of a way to drop the blade carrier/spindle from the deck without removing the deck from the mower? I could remove the deck but it would be a lot simpler if I can do it with the deck in place.

How much force is required to press the spindle/plate out of the bearing assembly? Will it help if I undo the 4 bolts holding the spindle housing to the deck? Is there a better way to do this?

Any suggestions would be appreciated as this happened when I had just started to mow so I still have an acre of shaggy lawn getting shaggier until I can get this fixed!

As a contribution I can offer up a good quality PDF of the owner's manual for Greenfield Fastcut 34 (15.5 to 25hp) and Fastcut 32 (13 to 18hp) if it will help anyone. Does the site have a reference library? (I'm still looking around and haven't found everything yet . . . need to cut my grass first! 8-( )

Thanks in advance . . .

Larry@Witzend!

The offender . . .

Hi Witzend, welcome to Outdoorking.

Until one of the serious Greenfield guys chips in, this is the blind leading the blind, but here is an extract from the Illustrated Parts List for the Evolution 14-32 (which may be much the same as the 14.5-32 - if it's not, say so):


This is telling us that Item 19, the Disk and Spindle, drops out from Item 23, the Spindle Housing Unit, after you remove the hardware from the top that is holding them together (nut, pulley, assorted washers and key). In other words, it seems to be currently only held in by the normal transition-fit of the bearing inner rings on the spindle. If you were to put a suitable block of brass on top of the spindle, and smite the brass downward with moderate force, you should see evidence of movement. If you don't, let's contemplate this further.

I agree with Grumpy on this. As you have removed all the hardware from the top of the shaft, the only thing holding it in place is the bearings on the shaft.
Downward pressure on the shaft should see it move in the right direction to get it out.
Of course, this would be much easier to do if you remove the cutting deck from the mower.
I always remove the cutting deck on the Greenfields I work on.
For the sake of half an hour of work, it saves a lot of grief.
Then again, I don't have one of those good looking hoists that you seem to have available.

I support Murray's recommendation, that the best way to do this is to take the deck off. Remember if you try to do it without removing the deck you must support the deck from underneath when you thump the top of the shaft, or you'll damage the height adjusting system.

You've had the advice of somebody who does this frequently (Murray). Any time you reject the advice of an expert, you've got your neck out a long way.

Hey Grumpy, Murray,

You guys are quick! Many could take a lesson from you guys! Thanks very much for the info.

I'll have a look and see what's involved in dropping the deck, I was hoping to avoid that but as you both said, my neck may feel the draft. Below is the parts diagram for the 14.5/32 which is similar to the one above, but not quite the same.

I thought, like you guys suggest, that once the hardware above including the pulley was removed it would be a simple matter to drop the blade carrier but it sits very firmly in the bearings and there is not a good deal of space to swing while the deck is in place (I had to buy a 3" puller to get the belt pulley off, the 4" I already had was too tall). This mower is 8 years old but has been well looked after so bearings are in good shape. I did tap it (with timber in-between) but it seems very solid so I didn't want to hit harder until I checked, do you guys think it will take much force to move it? Probably another argument for dropping the deck out I guess. If it's hard to remove with deck in place it may be worse trying to get it back in that way.

My thought was to remove the carrier and use a press to straighten it . . . I don't suppose I'm missing the obvious and there is a way to straighten it in place is there?

The lift the mower is on is a motorcycle/ATV lift table which comes in really handy for mower work I've found. I'm restoring an old bike at the moment as well so I use the table for that mostly. The business I manage sells workshop equipment including bike lift tables and it is one that came back with a warranty issue on the hydraulics so I found a porta-power doing nothing and mated the two together. Best part is it was free! Even the little bike jack holding up the front comes in handy for mowers.

Thanks again . . .

Larry@Witzend!

Unfortunately, there aren't any shortcuts I can suggest here.
Removing the deck may sound like a bit of an effort, but it's pretty straight forward and I think it will save you a world of pain in the end.
As for trying to straighten the blade holder in place, well again, I believe the only way to do this properly is to remove it.
Then you can put it in a press and use a straight edge to make sure it is going to run true.
This is the way that I would do it. Hope it helps.

Hi Murray,
That is good quality sound advice mate and this removal process will make an excellent archive for future Greenfield owners, that may have to remove the deck.

Hey Murray,

The more I think about it (and listen to you guys) the more I think you're right. I'll have a look and see about dropping the deck.

And DeeJay, I'll pay attention as I go and try to post the process with pictures, especially any pitfalls.

Thanks . . .

OK . . . Now that I am going to drop the deck, what is the best set of bolts to use to do this as simply as possible? To me it looks like the 4 bolts (2 either side) where the deck hangers bolt onto the deck itself. Am I on the right track here?

It looks like that would leave all of the deck height adjustment etc out of the equation and make it simple to remove/replace the deck. See the circled bolts in the 2 pictures, looks like those are the ones to undo to remove it. Can any of the Greenfield guys confirm this?

Anything else I should watch out for?

Thanks . . . Larry@Witzend!

I usually undo the bolts that hold the two arms to the bracket that is held by the bolts you circled.
I jack the mower up at the front to give myself plenty of clearance to then slide the deck out.
I use a bit of wire to hold the arms up out of the way to get the deck out.
By unbolting the arms, it won't interfere with the deck adjustment.

If you can undo the bolts you have circled easy enough, that should also work.
Again, you may need to use some wire or such to hold the arms and brackets up to assist in getting the deck out.

You are certainly on the right track. Good luck.

OK . . . Removed the deck by undoing the 4 circled bolts from the previous picture. Works a treat, and no need to wire anything as leaving the hanger brackets in place keeps the deck lifting gear rigid and stable. You can still operate the deck height adjustment after removing the deck so once the deck is unbolted it can be raised to help the deck clear the lifter for removal out the side. I blocked the deck up with timber while removing the bolts and then slipped the timber out making it an easy task for one person and not bending anything during the process.

Now just have to try and get the blade carrier spindle out of the bearing assembly. Have given it a few taps with rubber mallet but it's tighter than that so will set it up on blocks and have another go.

Now that I've made it this far I might as well do everything I can while it's accessible, lube chains, linkages, pivot points. I'll replace both drive & cutter belts as these are the originals and 8 years old now and I can see nicks & cuts going 2/3rds the way thru the belt. Would probably only last a few months more so might as well do them now while I can easily get in there.

I don't think a mallet is going to do the business, you need a real hammer and a brass or aluminium block between the hammer and the top of the shaft, so you don't bruise it. You need to support the deck solidly (onto concrete) in multiple places as close as possible to the outside of the cutter disk. I'd use my cut-down one-handed sledge. The trick is to not hit it any harder than necessary, but use a very rigid setup and lots of hammer mass. I'd start by just dropping the little sledge about 18" onto it. If it doesn't move, look for ways to support the deck closer in, nearer the shaft, don't just keep hitting it or hit it harder. Remember, the closer-in and more rigidly you support the deck, the greater the shock transmitted and the more effective it will be. Don't fall for the trap of pounding the thing repeatedly with poor support - you'll just ruin the deck without achieving anything much (except for destroying the spindle bearings).

I agree with Grumpy's comments.
I find it unusual that it is so tight. It should not take a lot of force to get the shaft to move.

Thanks Grumpy, I'm trying to avoid damaging the shaft and wasn't sure how hard I should go so that gives me a better idea. Real hammers I have. When you say a brass or aluminium block, how thick are we talking and which is preferable? Also, I see with some shaft removals they say to screw the nut back onto the shaft level or almost with the top to help protect the shaft top & threads . . . a good idea or no?

Just saw yours Murray . . . it's pretty tight but I haven't hit it 'metal to metal' as Grumpy suggests.

An inch thick or more is fine for the block, Witzend. Brass is more traditional than aluminium. If you do use aluminium be careful it is not cold-formed or it could be much harder than you expect.

Putting the nut onto the shaft is better than just hitting the end of the shaft with a hammer, but it is quite rough on the thread and in my view, is not really good enough if it looks as if you might have a slightly stuck shaft. If you need a proper hammer, you need a brass drift.

Finally got it . . . couldn't find a lump of brass without a long drive but found another way. I took the deck to work and blocked it up on 4 pieces of 50 x 75mm timber for support, carefully lined up the forklift so the tines could rest on the shaft & nut but clear all other fittings, placed 2 layers of sheepskin between then used the hydraulic forward tilt to apply pressure. I only used the last inch of travel so that when it popped the tine wouldn't hit the bearing and do damage. Still didn't pop so I grabbed a sledge and rapped the top of the tine and bingo! Out it popped! There is a fair bit of crud & surface rust on the shaft so it was never going to go easily.

I spent half an hour straightening it in a 30t shop press and got it mostly straight and then saw that the plate had bent relative to the spindle shaft and would never straighten properly and would probably vibrate regardless of what I did or maybe even break at the weld so gave up and bought a new spindle and blade disc. Originally I thought to fix the old one as parts are usually expensive but the shaft & disc were only A$132. With both belts a total all up of A$198 so if I get another 8 years it's a bargain.

The manual talks about a spring puller that should have come with the mower when new but I never received one so made my own from some 3/8" steel rod. It or similar is needed to release the belt spring tensioner.

Now all I have to do is throw new belts on and put it all back together!

I have seen several threads on here with different opinions on Greenfield chain lube (drive & steering) but there doesn't seem to be a favourite, anyone found a way that doesn't attract too much dirt?




Again . . . thanks to Grumpy & Murray for advice! Much appreciated!!

Everyone needs to keep a spring removal hook under the bench, Witzend. I made mine years ago (in 5 minutes flat) because the alternative was to risk getting hurt, then and in the future:



I think there was a crude alternative to replacing that cutter disk. I'd probably have wasted half an hour truing it up then balancing it (it would have required balancing because by the time it was straight, the center of the disk would no longer have been in line with the center of the shaft). However your method produced a better job.

I suggest you spin it up on the bench before you put it back in the mower, in case you've Brinelled one of the bearings.

While it is apart and you've gone to some expense already, I would also replace bearings as well.
At least you will know that the job is done and you will get another 8 years of mowing provided you don't hit that kerb again.

Hey Guys,

Yep, now I've made one I'll keep it at the back of the toolbox. Once I saw the bent plate/shaft easy decision . . . I'm an I.T guy, have always done my own servicing but not too much further. Just recently started attempting more so don't have the equipment to true a shaft. I have access to some equipment at work but we're not a workshop, just sell the stuff.

When popping the shaft I had a block in place so the tine could not hit the spindle carrier and no marks on top, also took a lot of time to make sure I pressed straight down (spirit level under tine) so I think all is OK but as suggested I'll check them carefully.

YeeHaw, Done!

Bearings looked great, all straight and still running smooth so have taken a chance. Put it all back together, Cleaned, lubed and adjusted everything I could find and it mows like a champ! Smooth and a lot quieter that it was (relatively speaking). Spent a bit of time adjusting trim and tilt which has paid off as well.

I did run into a mate I didn't know was lurking in what looks to be an engine oil drain channel in the chassis, I guess he was calling it 'home' while I was working under there 8-( He's been evicted now . . . look for the legs centre of picture just below the oil drain . . .






Thanks for the advice guys!