OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Reel-Type Mowers First Scott Bonnar 45 Resto

hi there

handle frame is different compared to all the other 45's i have seen
is it a Scotty 45?
bit hard to see on this shot but doesn't look like it has much meat on the reel does it?

cheers

Looks like the real deal to me, mid-late 70's SB45. I have a couple of 45's with these handles and I've seen many others. They're not as common as the traditional style handles however.

As for the reel, I can't see it well enough to comment sorry.

thanks rolla

are these able to be converted to the traditional handles?
taking a guess i would say yes??

I can't see any difference in the frames, so you shouldn't have any problems. I must admit I prefer the more common handles - I feel like I'm pushing a shopping trolley otherwise

If you have a Briggs with the large fuel tank, just make sure that the new handles clear the tank. We've noticed that some have bent lower sections to give additional clearance but others are straight.

Ended up buying this old girl for $150.

Model number is 450570

2.5 BS 80102 0233 01 7603208

Couldn't find the model number anywhere?

Hi again perthmower, and on becoming a Scott Bonnar Model 45 owner!

The handle assembly and parts list can be found... HERE

Your machine is a twin rail (Series 2) 17" cut, manufactured at the Thebarton factory in South Australia.
The Briggs and Stratton engine is an 8 cubic inch, which makes it a 3HP, with a Vacu-Jet carburettor manufactured on the 20th March 1976.
Allowing time for that engine to be freighted from the USA and fitted to your machine, we can hazard a guess at the manufacturing date as mid to late 1976, early 1977.

To allow us to assess the condition of the chains and sprockets, we need a close-up pic of the inside of the chain-case, particularly the sprockets where they are not covered by the chain.
Could you please also post a pic of the cylinder reel (close-up) so we can see how much life it has in it.

This machine will restore nicely, and if carefully maintained, will give you years of mowing pleasure.

perthmower, to clarify the information you have supplied, your Briggs engine is:
Model 80102
Type 0233 Trim 01
Code 7603208.

The first digit of the model number is the displacement in cubic inches, the second is the design generation of the engine, the third tells you it has a horizontal crankshaft and a Vacu-Jet carburetor, the fourth tells you it has plain main bearings, and the fifth tells you it has a recoil starter.

The type and trim are indecipherable to civilians, but it indicates what combination of options the engine buyer (Scott Bonnar) has specified, right down to the kind of decals on the engine.

The code specifies, in reverse order, the day, month and year it was built (20 March 1976) and that it was made in Briggs' Plant 8. Plant 8 was closed some years ago, along with quite a few other Briggs plants, and I can't even tell you where it was located now. (Briggs has moved all side valve engine production to its plant in China, and now only makes OHV and DOV engines in the US.)

With the Model and Type, we can look up the original Briggs information for the engine. Here is the Illustrated Parts List:
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/Z6jmvGVJ1DajI.pdf

Here is the Operator's Manual:
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/lrvvA-wU7eL7hAxB91ObQ.pdf

Well done on picking up a 45, perthmower

I have to agree with perthmower that the 80102 is 2.5hp rather than 3hp - all of mine are 2.5hp also. The 80202's that I have are 3hp however.

Hi Micheal,
I stand corrected mate, yes it is a 2.5HP, I used the information listed HERE as my reference, as you can see, the 2.5HP is not listed, and shows the 62000, 80000, 82000and 83000 series as 8cu.in and 3HP.
My mistake.

Hi Darryl,

Sorry mate, it's not that I meant to correct you. I have some Briggs info in the form of dealer sales brochures and price lists from the 60's and 70's coming from the U.S. soon. They appear to have detailed specs, pictures and info on the engine range of the time. I will make the info available once I have it.

Cheers, Michael

Hi Michael,
No probs mate, as I have said here many times...we all like to learn new things and tinker here...
It would be great if you can post your new info when you get it. I, for one, will enjoy reading it and learning at the same time.

Thanks all!!

Got it off an old boy which he had it passed down from his old boy haha.
So I guess I'm it's third owner , I have kept his number so I can send him some pics of her restored.

It had been in the shed for the last 3yrs and he couldn't get it going.
There was crap in the tank so I cleaned it out, cleaned the plug and put fresh fuel in her, fired 5th pull ANC ran nicely!!

The bed knife looks different to my mates 45 , mine is more of a knife edge?
The reel had been touching .

Pics time

Not sure why some are up side down

Hi again Perthmower,

(1) If your images appear upside down, just right click on the image and save it to the folder where your pics are stored on your computer.

(2) Then, click edit post, and delete the offending image.

(3) Open the image in your computer (usually My Pictures) folder and scroll until you find the image that needs to be rotated and right click on the image, a drop-down menu will appear....like this....


(4) Scroll down the list to "Rotate Clockwise" or "Rotate Counter Clockwise" whichever applies and rotate the image.

(5) Go back to 'Edit Post" and using the Inline uploader re-load your image....Easy Peasy!

Hi Perthmower,

Regarding your machine, here are my observations:

The cylinder reel has plenty of meat on it and looks like it has never been re-ground.

All sprockets and chains look in reasonable condition, but desperately in need of re-greasing with a good quality grease.

The bottom (bedknife) blade needs regrinding or replacing...the engineer/machinist who does the reel and bedknife for you will advise you and can supply and fit the new blade for you...Do not attempt to remove the bedknife from the soleplate yourself...you can damage the soleplate very easily, and, being cast iron can fracture....Very expensive to replace (ie.) $$$

Take both the reel and the soleplate with the bedknife attached to your engineer for sharpening.

Your machine looks to be a great restoration project.
If you have any questions, don't be afraid to ask...we will help you through the process.

Thanks deejay

She is completely stripped ready to be sandblasted .

Not sure about stripping the motor as she runs just fine?
If I just mask it up to paint it what would I clean it properly with?

Oh yeah forgot to take a pic but it still had the genuine air filter with the BS logo
Lol

No worries Perthmower,, and glad to see you got it stripped and everthing went OK for you...

Re re-painting the engine, before you mask it up, give everything a good cleanup first by degreasing and when hosed off and completely dry, rub all the painted surfaces down with a product called 'Prepsol' or otherwise known as 'Wax and grease remover...

You can get it from an automotive paint shop, or Super-Cheap, auto-One etc., and comes in 1 litre cans. Just be careful with it...it is extremely flammable...so no sparks or smoking around it!

I had nothing to do so instead of blasting I got to it with an abrasive disk
And emry getting it smothish lol
Guys, what primer should I use on this?
Thinking of some sort of filler first?

You'll need to match the type of primer to the paint that you're going to use (over the top of it). For example, if you're planning on using enamel, use an enamel primer. If you're going to use acrylic lacquer, use an acrylic primer.

You can usually get away with spraying enamel over an acrylic primer, but not the other way around.

If you've got access to a spray booth, you could consider 2 pack.

If you have some larger scratches or imperfections, you can use a 2 part automotive filler. There are primer fillers and spray putties as well, but unless they're 2 pack, they don't have very high builds and they tend to shrink back over time... revealing the imperfections again

Hmm, are there 2pac fillers in a can?
Pretty sure you can use 2pac fillers/primers than acrylic paints?

Which way would you?

Cheers rolla

You wont find 2 pack paint in an aerosol can I'm afraid. It's called 2 pack / 2k because it's a 2 part paint (base and catalyst) and needs to be applied with a spray gun. It also contains isocyanate which is very hazardous to your health. It's strictly the stuff of professional spray booths and the operator would normally wear a pressure spray suit with breathing gear. It's unsafe and probably illegal to apply at home.

I've heard of acrylic being applied over 2k primers but I've got no experience with it myself. You could always ask a paint rep. If you're going to use a 2 pack primer, you may as well use a 2 pack base coat and clear. It'll be more durable and less work.

If you're painting at home, stick to enamel or acrylic

Do I need to put on a rust protection? Or is that in the primer?
Will need to do some research I think haha

I will use this as a primer I think
http://www.whiteknightpaints.com.au...tal-paint/rust-guard/primer/metal-primer

Then paint with hammertone

The paint itself will be the rust protection, provided that you've prepared the surface well before priming, and that you've got good coverage.

The whiteknight paints are an enamel and really easy to apply. Just take your time and do lots of light coats, you want to avoid runs at all costs. Enamel will take a lot longer to flash off than acrylic so it's easier to get some runs if you're a little heavy fingered on the aerosol or spray gun.

The can will have guidelines on how long to leave between coats, follow that and keep em nice and light and it'll look sweet. There's no cutting and polishing with enamel, so when you're doing your very last colour coat, you can go a little heavier just to get a nice glossy appearance and you're done.

Can't seem to find hammertone in any green at all ?
Any hints as to where to get similar to original colour?

Might just paint colour as peettee has done if I can't get any

Cheers

Hi again Perthmower, and ODK members,

I have a mate who works in the automotive paint field that told me recently he could probably match the colour, starting with a hammertone deep tint base and gradually adding the tinters, to come up with the final Scotty colour.

You would need to take a part of your machine with the original colour (inside of the chain-case cover would be perfect) to your local auto paint supplier and ask him to get in some hammertone deep tint base and then do the colour match for you....