OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions On Ride On Mowers Questions on Rover Ride On Mower Rover Rancher 1755 build

I am rebuilding a rover rancher 1755 that my late father in law gave me. I pulled it all down, had it cleaned and sprayed in black two pack. It has taken a while to get to put the cutting deck on and now I have forgotten how it goes back together. I do have the manual and have gotten as far as I can with that. The area I am trying to find out about is under the main deck, the two bolts that hold the front area of the seat down also hold a L shaped bracket underneath that runs along the cutting deck arms.
Does anyone have a photo of this area, or know if it is a bolt that goes through as a guide for the cutting deck arms?

Attached is the area where I would like a photo to help me out.

Pulling one apart at the moment.
Its almost dark out, so watch this space.


Cheers, Bob.

Thanks, if you haven't pulled her down yet, could you get how all the guides are positioned, please.

I have. Pulled the motor out on monday evening.

But I can dummy them back up.
Its not too hard, theres a left and a right guide and they are held with the bolts that hold the engine on.


Is it a single deck, or the alloy twin deck???

Where the red arrow is, is there only one arm poking down??? What is it. Part of some sort of bracket. Inside or outside the deck lift frame, on the left of the right??? Might need a closer in pic.

I think I can see the height relay rod on the frame for the deck in the pic and it looks connected. So its not that on upside down. Got me stumped what the red arrow is pointing at.

Under the two bolts that hold the front of the rear guard - seat base assembly is just a belt guide type thing. Just a bit of flat strap thats got some bends on the ends to drop it down lower than the width of the belt section. Holds the wires and stuff up as well.



Should be two pins on that part of the frame on the out sides, deck slips up onto them then the bolts with the big washers through the hoops on the side hold the front.

If you undo the scissor bolt in the middle, the washers and bolts can stay on the front arms, you can just twist them 90deg to get the washer in the slot. Pins in the front, bolts in the centre, then hook the springs on. Use a block of wood to hold the front edge of the deck up. Or just drop the height control to eat dirt if you are doing it on the ground.


If you flip those springs back 90deg and sit them on the pin and put a zip tie or something on them to hold them up (saves undoing the bolts or deforming the eyes to get the springs off) you can use the mower as a tractor.
Pop the 2 pins and springs and undo two bolts. Its not exactly tool less removal but its not that difficult to take the deck off.


The one im doing now is single steel deck (and everythings as rusty as hell)
Ive got an alloy deck one here as well. I had a quick look at it and how the back of the deck mounts might be different on them (its a bit hard to get at, theres stuff in front of it).


Can you get a closer in pic of the brackets you mention.

Cheers,

Hi Bob, it is a single deck. There are two L shape brackets, No. 18 in first pic, this is what the red arrow is pointing at. The second pic shows it a bit clearer. I am not sure if they need to be on the inside or the outside of the cutting deck lifting frames?

At first I thought maybe an inner support for the rear deck hanger mounting bolt. They sorta line up in the parts list you put up. Couldnt see how it would work and neither of mine had anything other than the hole in the plate for the transaxle to mount to and a spacer/collar.
Looked on the computer for pics of any ranchers ive pulled apart. Found pics of an autodrive, its got real similar to the older ones.

Then I remembered that I had a PDF for a Rancher on my PC.

I just had a look, ive got the PDF for the 1766 & 1744. whats the one you put up, the pics were slightly different in mine.

Part 20, transaxle support bracket.

On the back corners of the transaxle there are two threaded holes. Thats the bottom of the brackets.
The tops go in two holes in the rear of the frame at bolt 26.

They stop the transaxle from rocking.

Cheers.

P.S. What paint did you use and how is it holding up to reassembly??

It is a two pack marine paint, it is holding up pretty well. The manual is for the 1755 rancher. I will have a look and see if they are in the wrong place.

They are the rear transaxle support. I have had the transaxle replace and those threaded holes are no longer there. Also the support arms do not match up with the threaded holes. Will pull it all down and check everything. Thanks for all your help.

Thats them there

Excellent, I have changed mine now and that is good. Those two guides that are on the ground, did they come from the front. In particular the two holes either side of the cutting deck brake? Are they supposed to touch the belts/push the belts in? I think my deck drive belt might be stretched as I can not get it to engage the cutting disk.
Your help is much appreciated.

The two brackets on the ground are for around the main engine pulley.

They bolt onto the engine mounting bolts. They can only go on one way.
The go on the side of the pulley to stop the belts coming off. Mainly on the side where it runs onto the pulley.
You dont want them touching the belts but you want them close.

The pin on the side where the belt runs onto the pulley is there to help guide it. The one on the other side where it exits the pulley is to keep the belt in close to the pulley when the belt is clutched/untensioned again so it does not run off the pulley. Basically to keep a concentric circumfrence in the belt. They dont always have these but some mowers have a semicircular strap type guide.
If a belt is not clutched it usually does not need a guide of any sort.



The belt for the deck runs to a spindle on the front. The short drive belt is clutched.
The belt from there back to the deck spindle is constant tension.

If i remember right engagement is locking the lever up, dissengagement is by a spring holding the tension pulley back and also engaging a band brake.


My next step with mine is to pull the front spindles out and the dash steering stuff. then I will stand it on its end and take the transaxle and idlers etc off. Will take a pic. Was planning to get to it today but got side tracked with something else.



You might think this is all difficultly mind bending. Just thank your lucky stars its not a Ranger. They are a dead set pig of a thing to work on.

Cheers, Bob.

Thanks, Bob. I will wait for your pic. I don't mind learning something new. I have put an aftermarket engine in so my bolts are a different size - I will drill out the guide holes to suit.
I do have a lot of slop ( more than 3 inches) in both the main drive and the smaller deck drive belts, i only noticed this today when i flashed her up and engaged the main drive. i had an awful noise come out of the gearbox as well ( bought it from over east as a refurbished unit) might have to pull it out and check the internals. after I get everything back together, I might have to get some new smaller belts.

Hi Bob,
Have put the guides in and below is a couple pics showing the belt looseness. The drive pulley is engaged and there is still a lot of slop in the belt. These belts were put on new when the mover was given to my father in law. He had it a couple years before he passed. They don't look stretched, but then again I am not qualified to say if they are or not. Your thoughts are appreciated.

The belt is the wrong side of the pin at the front idler pulley, 3rd & 4th pic. And Id have it in a bit closer to the engine pulley. Less than half the width of the belt. Almost touching even.

Adjust the linkage to the PTO lever to make the idler throw in further.



Is the drive belt too loose as well???
In pic 1 & 2 id adjust that zig zag shaped bit of the bar to go in closer to the belt for the transaxle drive. Thats its run on side where guiding it onto the pulley is the main priority.

Thanks very much, Bob. You have been most helpful. It all works how it supposed to now, belt problems sorted, braces in the right spot. Again, thanks very much.