OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Walk Behind Lawn Mower Frames Victa Lawn Mower Frames Victa Utility Model 540

Hi Bruce,

I am planning on servicing my grandfather?s victa, it has not been started for about 5 years. My father had the motor rebuilt about 6 years ago. From what I remember it still had the following problems:
* It seemed to starve for fuel. From my earliest memory of this mower (25 odd years ago) the fuel system/carby has been temperamental ... it seems to have the original setup from the pictures I have seen on the victa site 'http://www.victa.com.au/files/a18a19.pdf'
* The metal fuel tank weeps at the seam (top and bottom part join).
* The fuel tap cork no longer seals
* The starter bowl on the flywheel (I think that is the name of it?) was slipping stopping the ripcord from turning it over.

Any hints suggestions before I embark would be much appreciated.

Thanks

James

Jamesl,

Can you put up or PM a picture on the board so that I can see the motor. What I am looking for is dust collection around the bottom seal and around the join in the crankcase plus where the cylinder bolts to the casing.

You could have a leaking top or bottom seal. If it is the top seal the machine will rev high and if it is the bottom seal it will be hard to start.

The starter cup on the flwheel is the nut molded into it? If not I can supply or you can get from your local mower shop but you will also need to replace the pawls that grip onto the cup.

The tap cork I have in stock for that machine.

As to the tank you can only get second hand. I should be able to locate one.

Please explain how the machine runs as I need this info to give you correct answer.

Hi Bruce,

I got your manual on the 3F/3L carby and the float lever was about 7/16" so I bent it back to 3/16" as required. Where the cylinder bolts to the crankcase is clean, the bottom seal had a small amount of dust, so I have cleaned it down and will check it again after it has been run again (the motor has only done about 5 hours of work since all these seals were replaced).

The motor started after about 5 pulls and it ran like a charm, stopped for 30 seconds to re-fuel and started again ok. I then stopped the engine while I took it to the front yard and started it about 5 minutes later ... no joy .. I kept turning it over and it would fire with a puff of smoke here and there and stop .. at one stage it ran for 15 seconds at really low revs making a choof ... choof ... choof sound at each firing with a puff of smoke. I let it cool completly down and it started and ran fine again and mowed the front? I then stopped it again, waited 5 minutes and it would not start again until it cooled completely.

I will check the cup to see what type. If I can get it to behave itself I will order the pawls & cup and fuel tap as I would like to use it and it is an airloom. Do you think I could run a tiny bead of red loctite fuel/oil tolerent silicone around the join of the fuel tank to seal it?

Your help is much appreciated.

Thankyou

James

jamesl,

1.Can you take out the plug and just check if the white insulator has carbon on it.

2. Did they replace the points and condensor when they did the overhall?

3. Did you replace the spark plug (if it is a champion replace it with either NGK or KLG).

If the mower has had a full overhaul it should start by the second pull not taking 5 pulls. When you go to start it do you hold down then brass primer on the carby till fuel flows out before you pull the rope or do you keep pressing it up and down like everyone else? :p

Did you check that the cylinder bolts are tight where it bolts on to the crancase?

Also check the nut that holds the blade plate on and see if you have any shinny part behind the washer.

When it stops on you I want you to take the plug out straight away and check for spark.

Jamesl,

As to the tank don't use silicone as most of the time it ends up blocking the carby jets and it doesn't tak much.

Hi Bruce,

> 1.Can you take out the plug and just check if the white insulator has carbon on it.

Yes it has carbon coating it.

> 2. Did they replace the points and condensor when they did the overhall?

Well considering I am having a bugger of a time getting the bowl off I think it is unlikely ... do you have some tips on removing the bowl? It has a steel nut that seems to go into the bowl casing .. I will send you some pics.

> 3. Did you replace the spark plug (if it is a champion replace it with either NGK or KLG).

It is a champion N21, I will get a replacement.

> If the mower has had a full overhaul it should start by the second pull not taking 5 pulls. When you go to start it do you hold down then brass primer on the carby till fuel flows out before you pull the rope or do you keep pressing it up and down like everyone else?

he he .. no I hold it down until it flows from the overflow

> Did you check that the cylinder bolts are tight where it bolts on to the crancase?

Not yet .. will check

> Also check the nut that holds the blade plate on and see if you have any shinny part behind the washer.

No shinny part ... however the blade plate washer was cracked through but it was still holding fast.

> When it stops on you I want you to take the plug out straight away and check for spark.

Bowl and paws finally completely slipping ... can no longer start. Will do this as soon as I can start it again.

I think it is time to order some parts. I will send you an email to get some pricing on parts.

Mower Pics






Cheers

James

jamesl,

The starter cup (bowl) is no longer available but I have been able to track down a good second hand one that has been machined out. The starter pawls I can supply as well.

Looking at the flywheel you should get away with it at this time. I will snd you prices on the bits and pieces tomorrow.

Just one question about the full overhaul did they replace the piston, rings and cylinder?

Hi Bruce,

No .. I guess I made a mistake in saying full overhall .. it was just the rings, bearings and seals.

Cheers & thanks for chasing the cup down.

James

James,

Now we`are getting somewhere. The bet is that they only replaced the bottom seal as the top seal is internal and the crankcase has to be pulled apart.

Did you get a receipt showing what parts that they replaced? Did they give you back the old parts?

1.The corks for the fuel tap I have in stock.

2. The starter cup is now in stock.

3. The points and condensor are in stock.

4. The blade plate washer you can use a later model one which is in stock.

5. The tank I am still chasing down but looking good at this stage.

6. The plug is in stock.

7. I will bet my bottom dollar that the ring gap is over 10 thow or the cylinder is slightly scored or the points and condensor are faulty and that is why the plug is getting carbon on it.

Hi Bruce,

Had to get a rattle gun to get the cup off ... it has been on there a looonnnggg time! Now trying to get the flywheel off, it must be on a taper? I can see a key ... but it isn't moving. Any tips? I am soaking in diesel to see if I can get some oil penetration. The flywheel seems to have some provisions for a puller? If this is the case can you use a conventional puller?

Cheers

James

James,

I have the starter cup in stock as well as the fuel tap cork, spark plug, blade plate washer, starter pawls. The tank I am hoping to find out tomorrow.

Here is a picture of the cup:

Hi Bruce,

I am trying to get hold of a flywheel puller (3 holding bolt with centre bolt type) however the holding bolt provisions in the flywheel don't seem to have threads unless the threads are deeper down than I can see? Do you think there should be threads?

Cheers

James

James,

You will have to tap threads in the holes if it has not been done before. Also make sure that you let it soak with WD40 prior to taking it off. The shaft does not have a taper. :Wavey:

Having trouble locating the tank but I am talking with another friend that has a lot of old stuff and he said that he will let me know shortly.

Hi Bruce,

I need to get a cleaning die for the thread that the cup will screw onto, do you know the thread and size so that I get the correct one.

Cheers

James

James,

The thread type both ends (Crankshaft) is 1/2" BSF.

Wow, BSF ... that one was hard to chase down .. hopefully get it today.

I noticed that there is no air filter cartridge in the air filter housing, instead just a fine mesh on the housing itself ... does it require a cartridge or is this standard for these models?

Cheers

James

James,

That air filter is standard. No cartridge is required.

Hi Bruce,

After cleaning up the threads, new points + condenser, plug, paws and bowl fitted I was excited when it started first go ... there is a hell of a lot more spark now and it sounds much better ... but again after stopping it wont start . I pulled the plug at this time as you suggested and it has lots of spark but just wont go.

I checked the bolts that bolt the cylinder to the crankcase and they were tight. What is the next step? I am guessing pulling the cylinder head off and inspecting it? If I do this will the gaskets be buggered during dissasembly? If so I will wait to see if I need rings before ordering replacement gaskets. If I go this far should I replace the bottom seal just to be sure?

Will I need to pull the flywheel off again to perform any of this work?

Thanks ... we will win this one yet ;-)

James

James,

You are running the machine with the blade plate on are you?

Have you checked your petrol container for water?

Did you flush out the tank?

Did you clean the carby and the main jet in the centre?

The spark you have is it blue?

Did you check the bottom seal for leaks?

If you check these first and it still doesn't go then move to the next thing to check.

Undo the four bolts holding the cylinder to the crank case and remove the cylinder.

Then take the piston ring off and put it in the cylinder to see what ring gap you have also look for scoring in the cylinder. :Wavey:

Let me know what you find.

>You are running the machine with the blade plate >on are you?
Yes

>Have you checked your petrol container for water?
Was completely cleaned - no water

>Did you flush out the tank?
Yes

>Did you clean the carby and the main jet in the >centre?
Cleaned the carby however did not remove main jet to clean the emulsion chamber.

>The spark you have is it blue?
Yes. bright blue

>Did you check the bottom seal for leaks?
I will check ... am I just looking for weeping?

>If you check these first and it still doesn't go >then move to the next thing to check.

>Undo the four bolts holding the cylinder to the >crank case and remove the cylinder.

>Then take the piston ring off and put it in the >cylinder to see what ring gap you have also look >for scoring in the cylinder. [Wave]

Will let you know

Thankyou

James

James,

Have a real close look at the bottom seal because some time I have been caught with them. If you end up having to take the cylinder I would be checking by putting fuel in the crankcase to see if you get bubbles (this shows a leak).

From your reply before I am assuming that the rings are either worn or the cylinder is scored. You can also check this by looking in the exhaust port after taking the muffler off.

Let me know what you find.

Hi James Looking at your pics I see one of the flywheel fins is broken . .I think you should consider breaking off the opposite fin to help balance the engine once you get it running . Did you get a Tank yet?/ Regards Joe

Hi Joe,

No Tank yet, however Bruce is still looking.

Actually two fins are broken ... if I balance them up will it affect cooling?

Cheers

James

Nasty ... time for a new piston and rebore I think? One of the rings has broken up some time ago and banged up the piston ... can hear a few bits of ring rattling in the exhaust ... no bits remain in the ring recess or in the cylinder (should all the bits have gone out the exhaust?).

Can you still get a piston for these models? I will check the bottom seal like you suggested ... should I just replace it now we have come this far?

BTW if I replace the bottom seal, there is lump of round steel on the bottom of the crank (below the bottom seal) that the blade plate backs on to ... is this on a spline or is this yet another nut I am going to fight with?

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James,

I would be doing the following now you have taken the cylinder off.

Go to the parts list and repair manuals and open up the forum for Victa motor manual (you will need password which I will PM you) and click on Victa early model 125cc & 160cc Motors. You will be able to print off and do your repair.

Note:

I would recommend that you replace all bearing and seal, cylinder & piston to do a full reco.

Once you have done it you will have a machine that will start on the first pull every time and outlast the motors that they are`producing these days.

James,

The washer on the shaft is to protect the oil seal. It is just a push fit on the crankshaft.

Hi Bruce,

Can you please send pricing on parts for full reco.

Cheers

James

Hi James the lack of 2 fins would not greatly affect the cooling. It will afect it slighly but not really worth worrying over Regards Joe

James,

I have sent the parts today express post, you should get them tomorrow.

Note that I have also put in the bearings as well so that you can do a full reco on the mower.

If you have any questions on the reco just post it on the board and I will do my best to help.

Hi Bruce,

THANKS!!

Hopefully get some mowing done this weekend!!

Cheers

James