OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Walk Behind Lawn Mower Frames Question On Scott Bonnar Cylinder Mowers scott bonnar 45/14

hi all i have posted some pics below of my latest reco its taken appox 5 months only because i wanted it to last longer 2 pulls she started after a few revs to help the new rings in she just putted nicely all that valve work pays off . have in the past reconditioned a 45/17 over a 3 week period thats from wo to go well i have done the 45 series now 20 17 and 14 in fact i have reconditioned 5 all up 3x 45/17 im looking into converting 1 into a scarifier which would mean machining a shaft to fit into a 45 17 body and making it a dedicated scarifier and possibly an engine change. on a side note i have a scott bonnar catalogue from 1973 rrp 45/14 =$249 rrp 45/17 =$269 and the daddy of the 45 range was $299 also i didnt know but a battery operated 45/14 model was available lucas 12 volt battery sitting up on the engine deck it says the battery charger is available at an extra cost geeeez rrp was $229 kind regards steve...

a couple more pics all regards steve

Hi Steve, as usual mate, just bloody brilliant!!
on a great job.

I haven't posted in a while but I am looking through and found this thread. Your restoration looks awesome Deviosi. What do you do with all your Scott Bonnars? Do you sell them and if so, how much for?


I would love to find someone in Perth who could restore my Model 33 for me.

hi deviosi, great job im in the process of rebuilding a 17" 3hp can you tell me what paint you used, i am tring the galmet in spray can but seems to be a bit light and metalic finish plus the hammer is not that hammered in effect. also where do you get the engine decals from as i also have a 14" with the kirby engine and will eventually get to reapint that one.On another note my frame is cracked i have noted in other post mention of ways to repair how would you go about this? i thought of welding some new peices bent at 90 with hole drilled out for where the nut is welded in on the underside of the frame so its out of view, i have the twin rail frame.

hi stretton thanks for your comments i have a mate who makes the decals -not the ebay ones- the paint i use has been custom made with protec, hammertone paint and sprayed though a gun . getting a match is done by trial and error using inside of side cover for a reference your local paint supplyer is a place to ask regards steve..

Steve that front roller is a beauty, i was thinking of going down to the local exhaust guys and seeing if they had pipe this size, what did you use ? Since my last post i have made up my mind i like the galmet jade green. im not going to stick with the original color scheme, on my 14" it appears the handle bar plate and gear cover plate are black i have seen this on other pics of this model the kirby 2.5hp engine 45 series mower. saying this i found a nice hammered brown sounds odd but looks good for now when i get the frame worked out and put it together ill post a pic.
on another note, i posted 2 frames both are in need of repair as they are cracked; the red around two of the nuts and the green one well it obvious, which one would you choose and how would you go about the repair? thanks for any advise in advance. regards Mark

Hi Stretton, the cracks in the green frame were about identical to the cracks in mine before I partially restored it. I straightened the metal to its original position then simply welded plates to the underside of the larger cracks and welded over the top of the smaller cracks, underneath also. Worked for me. I believe cracking along those rails were a common problem with Scotty's. My before and after pics attached (and a piccy of my lawn)
Cheers Ross

cant seem to upload for some reason, anyway if you search my previous posts, the pics are there.
Ross

hi stretton! The front roller tube was chromed, mate u wont find this size tube at an exhaust place. Its an odd size but u can buy it though metaland 1 catch it comes in 11 mtr lengths, u could use white knight chrome spray regards steve.

Hi Mark, just to let you know that you can purchase a new front roller assembly...that is the roller tube and the plastic end caps for $40.00, plus freight of course... that might be a cheaper option than 11 mtrs of pipe from Metaland.
You could then get the tube chrome plated if you liked.

I've seen cracks like those before.
About 15mths ago, my older neighbour complained about his 45 not dis-engaging with the cutter drive clutch handle. There was all kinds of wear on the 80s cira SB, so we tweeked a few things and replaced a few parts and still noticed the drive shaft/cutter clutch was wobbling even more than starting. Taking the motor off, we found these cracks, though they were were busy like rabbits and everywhere. Closer inspection found the previous owner had welded plate under, but had cut the plates with an oxy and didn't clean the rough slagged edges around the cut outs for the motor bolts. So tightening down the motor had compressed the rails and made the shafts not allign.
I replaced the rails (very stressful getting everything to allign perfectly)
No more cracked rails.
Just a note, if you really don't need to replace them - DON'T.
It was so blooming hard to get it perfect and I know I had a lot more LUCK than still in getting it right.
Try and find another base, if yo can't weld it!