OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Victa Walk-Behind Rotary Mowers VC-160 Restoration

I picked up this very sad VC today. Defiantly in need of some loving.Just wondering if you could help me identify which model it is.It does have a mark 2 engine on it.What sort of carby do I need for it? As it doesn't have that.Do you know where I can get some parts for it? As I am going to restore it.I need another catcher,carby,throttle control,air cleaner and hose.That's what I know before deconstruction.I hope I can save the engine as it is seized.However I do have another mark 2 engine here.I have added some pictures of the poor old girl.Hope you can help me out.
Thanks
Jeffrey

Hi Jeffrey, and a warm welcome to the forum. Good work on trying to save a classic old VC from the scrappers axe, and when restored will look a treat.

Re parts, the Online Store will be able to supply some new parts; and hopefully some of our members may be able to have a look in their sheds for some serviceable bits.
Joe Carrol (our resident Victa guru) will hopefully jump in here with some advice as will TY (Mr Davis).

My advice would be to carefully disassemble what you have there, clean thoroughly,and give everything a close inspection, to see which is serviceable or not.
Make a list of the parts you need, and then post the list in the "Items Wanted" topic on the forum.
Also decide at what level you want to take the restoration and also if you are going to use the machine or display it.
Please take some pics and post them as you go along, as I'm sure all members would like to see them, also it helps build an archive that can help other members contemplating a similar resto.
Jeffrey, once again,

Hi Jeffery,

Wow, this poor old girl does need a little help!

The Mower, what yopu have is a second series Victa VC-160, this was released in 1971 and run till the following years release date, when the next model came out.

It is identified by the large crescent shaped latched in the 4th picture, that lock the lower handlebar hinge in place, the first picture shows the parts of the old metal tooth grid height adjustor, this was removed by the next model, and if you take the catch off i imagine you will find the flap on the back is one solid peice of metal, as opposed to the next year, where the lower inch of the flap was a seperate peice.

The engine for this model is indeed a Series 70 MKII, this would have the wide/large head decompression valve, on the long stem, a Victa G3 Carburettor (for originality on this model, you would have had the black float, with the brass pin, and the cast alloy float bowl)

With the throttle controll, your best bet is to get the one sold here (The top one on the list) and, depending how original you want to go, swap the thumb peice over (re-using old cses can be problematic)

the online store also has a number of G3 carburettor parts, under the Victa section of the Engines menu, in the above link, go to page one, and the throttle cable and end hook are there (I will check the lenght youy need for the cable tonight, i think its the long one)

with the catcher, using the old one, go down to "Tiny's Green Shed" at the mugga lane tip near Hume, and find a replacement if they have one, last time i was there, they had the remains of an even sadder MKI VC-160, i would not reccomend bothering with this one f it is still there, diferent engine. (if you can, get the catcher in dark green, black was the VC-125, and replacement catcher)

Let me know how you go, if you need help getting the carby i have a few re-conditioned G3 carby's lying around, and i work in canberra (Daily Commuter) so it would not be hard to get it to you. if you get stuck on any other parts, let me know, and i will see what i can do.

With the seized engine, this is a bit of a minefield, if its badly seized, then really, its not worth it, save what you can of the flywheel, case & ignition, and store it, then fit your other engine to the base.

Hope this helps, let me know how you go.

Just to check, when you say you want to restore this, what exactly do you mean, just getting fixed up, clean and running, or a full on original restoration.

if your going to be fully restoring it, i have alot of the info and pictures of the parts you need, i can also help you get them (things like the corect dress-cowl screws, original float, the catch flap handle, air filter holder, hanle lever, etc.)

When I say restore I mean to have it as thought it just rolled off the assembly line.I'm defiantly not going to mow any lawns with it,but I still want to be able to start and run it as though I was going to mow.Also to have it as a display model as well.I'm sorry to sound dumb but I have no idea of part numbers.Now I believe it is suppose to have a G3 carby,but I don't even know what that looks like.Is there a picture anywhere of it?I have pulled the mower down.I am hopeful that I can save the engine.Picton is stuck up the top of the bore,but it does have a little bit of movement(Fingers crossed on that).Does any one know how to get the handlebars of the bass I'm very stuck on that and don't want to damage them.
Thanks again guys
Jeffrey

Right, well i was hoping you would say that, i have a soft spot for these mowers.

With the engine, i managed to fee one once by flooding it with motor oil. i removed the engine, pored about a 1/2 cup of 2 stroke fuel into each open orifice, then filled everywhere i could with the car oil, i did this over an old bin, supporting the engine on to bars. i let it all soak overnight, then the next day, turned it up the other way, and let it drain for another 24 hours into the old bin, i then flushed it with 2-stroke fuel, and let it air out for an hour, before slowly moving it small amounts, stopping every few mm to spray a dose of WD-40 into the ports and spark plug hole, after much time, and a few full revolutions of this, it was fee enough to dis-assemble and clean up. no re bore was required in this case, and it still runs full strength first pull 2 years later.

This is a Victa G3 Carburettor (supported on a TV connector):


To remove the bars: this will be a little tricky depending on rust, with the aid of WD-40, remove the bolts of the back of those 2 'Fat' swing levers that Holt the bars from folding, then remove these from the shell, now remove the top 1/2 of the handles, then undo the bolts on the ends of the handle stubs, inside the rear chute area., the handles should then be able to be gently prised out.

I cant tell from the pictures for sure, but i am concerned there may be something missing from your inlet manifold, is it possible you could take a clearer shot of the second picture as the nipple for decompression may have snapped of your cylinder.

a few questions, is the 'View Stem' on the bottom of your fuel cap complete (should be about 3 inches or so long, are all 5 screws holding the cover on the same, and are you planning to salvage, or replace the starter with one that has the original sticker not so faded?

I have found a few things you might find useful:
-a working starter with less faded sticker
-the catch flap handle, not broken off at the end
-a full stem fuel cap
-5 original VC-160 dress cowl screws
-an original long white air filter canister, with lid
-the original throttle thumb piece
-the white handle bar centre locking lever.

Would you like any of these?

Hi Blumbly, Ty,
I was out at Mugga tip this arvo and there are a few mustangs out there that may be good for parts. There is a green mustang with a busted front axle that seems mostly intact i think. A heap of black catchers too..most busted to some degree. I grabbed a green cowled mustang from there last week but am yet to look closely at it but it's intact.
Good luck with your VC!

Sounds like it might be time i had another look this weekend!

There are a few ok B&S 200/225 series out there too that look like good parts material!!

I used to love going to mugga lane and also the flemington road shops. Bought many loads of crap from both of them

Memorable buys: a victa low arch "commodore" perfect condition $10
Rover turbothrust 5hp I/C btiggs engine. $5

No longer have te energy anymore to drive 4 hours to go shoppiing for only a few hours.....

Its not a bad place, Been a few changes in the last few years, they kicked revolve out (They moved down the road, and have just been booted from there aswell) so that the Govt. could put a commercial mob in there for full rent (Revolve was classified charity) that was Thiess, who got done for varios issues to do with not paying staff, and they were overpriced.

Now its called Tiny's Green Shed, its run quite well, alloy base mowers $20, others $10 - $15, the best ones sometimes go up to the front for a bit more where they can keep an eye on them, as people do tend to pocket parts off the main lot, which is out back (Most victa LM/G4 will come with no float plate, Briggs lose the fliter housing and varios other bits are nicked.

there the best place left for it, revolve (down for now, but will be back) does not get as many mowers, and often has none, and the mob up at Mitchell (Thiess) usually sell them for $80 (usually somwhat running, or at least close, but not always, and no garauntee)

Apart from that it never hurts to try the scrap metal yards!

Wow it's good to see so many helpful people.I might just in-fact go out to mugga lane tomorrow now and have a good look.I haven't been out there since the big uproar as to who was running the joint.


I knew that was the sort of carby it was suppose to have,manly because I don't have one.I have seen them before.On starts the search for one.After pulling mower down I can see what had happened.Somebody had ran over a fishing net with it and it all got tangled on top of the cutting disc and on the bottom of the crank shaft.Enough there I believe to make the engine stall and not run again.So my guess is they didn't realize so they just tossed the mower out.The only reason engine is seized as it doesn't have the carby.To answer your questions (Mr Davis)The stem on the fuel cap is broken.It does have all the 5 small bolts on cowl.I was going to save the starter in hope that new stickers could be obtained.I am certainly interested in the parts you said you have.It would almost be all the parts I need.I think as far as the catcher is I may have to take a crash course in fibre-glassing as I believe it is going to be the only way to save it.It is fairly extensive damaged.I posted the pictures you wanted,the pipe and the hose for the decompression valve are still intact.
I think the soaking in oil to un-seize sounds like a great idea.So I will leave at that and go and start pouring oil into combustion camber.
Thank You all for your advice.
Jeffrey

Hi Jeffery, glad to see the resto started, best of luck with it, don't forget to post some pics as you go along.

I'll get that 'Resto Kit' together for you this weekend if i can, i have 2 of these that i am going to be stripping for parts.

Would you like a G3 carburettor, if so, i can give you 2 options, i have a restored one here you can have, or i can give you a complete, but un-cleaned, and un-tested one off a scrap mower, and you can try your hand at restoring it (the diagrams for it are in the manuals section) if your interested, let me know how you would like to go about it and i'll get one out for you.

I'll let you know when i have the rest of that kit together for you, i may even be able to spare a catcher.

Oh i might just mention, if you do want the carby, Restored i can give it to you for $10, un-tested for $5, if i have the catcher, I'm happy to take $10 for it.

The rest of the items i mentioned (the 'Resto Kit') are free if you want them.

Well as far as the carby's are I would be happy with either one.I leave that up to you.You have excited me about the catcher.Anything to save me hours of trying to fix this one.Not saving it can't be done it will just take a very long time.
Thanks for helping I can see this project coming only fairly quickly at this stage.

No worries, i have both carbies here, so i will bring them along and you can take a look, I have a spare G3 service guide i beleive, so i can give you that if you decide to tackle the carby yourself.

I have had a think, and by memmory i have 6 VC-160 catchers, 1 is auto drive, so not for this, 3 i would like to keep for there respective mowers, and 1 needs repairs, so that leaves 1 that i should be able to spare.

i have had a little look at the shop, as some parts are best bought new, here is a few things i would reccomend, and the exact link to save you getting the wrong one for your mower.

1) Series 70/80 160cc Gasket Kit
2) Air Filter Seal (Goes Below Eliment, Inside Holder)
3) Long Type Victa Air Filter Eliment (This will fit in the holder i will give you)
4) Victa Series 70/80 HT Lead Grommet (Goes in the hole in the Crank Case, Where the HT Lead comes out)
5) Series 70 Spark Plug Connection Cover

If you do decide to do the carby yourself, here are some items you may find need replacing along the way:

1) G2/G3 Carburettor Float Bowl Gasket
2) G2/G3 Carburettor Gear Box Gasket
3) G3 Throttle Control Arm (If you loo...if your has the stem broken, replace it)
4) G2/G3 Carburettor Govenor Gears (Ch... cracked, if so, heres the replacements)
5) G3 Govenor Spring (Only worry about this if yours is warped or bent beyond repair)

Aslo, A few more ones that may be usefull to you, again, these will fit your model:

Fuel Filter
Ignition Points
Ignition Condensor
Ignition Coil
Muffler
Muffler Clip
Starter Pawls
Intake Hose


And theres this, the throttle control, as mentioned before, this is the right unit, but the black bit is not the same, i will give you the corect knob for the lever, and you can fit it to this.

Replacement Control Lever

Hope this helps, the shop has many more parts listed that fit your machine, but these ones are the ones i feel you are most likely to encounter a need for, if other issues arise, we will get to those parts then.

Jeffery, if you look in the Victa frames section theres a thread i started about catchers. The black one i have got pictures of was a big mess. Had tin plate all over it and a big bit of aluminum under the bottom that was bent to the wrong shape.
I suppose an hour all up with the soldering iron to get it how it looks now.
A soldering iron and some thin strips of plastic cut from a busted bit of catcher with tin snips.
Its sort of like welding with a TIG or Oxy, melt the plastic and you need to do it full depth, then work the melted plastic back in the crack then with some thin strips of plastic off another catcher, melt that in as filler and tidy it up as best you can. Only thing is that plastic does not solidify as quick as metal, so if you keep that in mind, even with a smallish soldering iron like mine you can still get a fair area of plastic liquified at once, almost to the drip/sag stage.
If its badly cracked up, the best thing is to tack it at about 25mm spacings and get the whole thing looking like it should then go to work. They can be a pain to get into the right spot, catchers never seem to sid where i want them. About an inch is a good size to work on at one time, over any more distance the plastic thends too cool to much as you work back and forwards. Thats sort of how i do it, like a grader, back and forth getting it hot, then work the liquid plastic back in. Then go over the top melting a thin strip of extra plastic down onto it to fill it in.

If the underside needs to sit on something (like the top lip) you will need to get under and sort it so its flat. If you done it right, where you have fixed a split there should be blobs of plastic coming out from where the crack was on the inside. A row of lumps and bumps.

Comes out pretty solid, not as strong as original, but its better than no catcher at all. Only thing is it can look a bit ugly. Ive seen some of the motor bike plastics guys have done and they have sanded and worked the surface back down flat and its barely noticable at all.

The one pictured will be plated on the underside with galv sheet metal. I hand form it up out of flat, get the shape right so its snug up on the bottom where it sits over the axle. Use the steel lip thing thats in them std and rivet through the tin through the plastic through the strip and another couple of bits inside the catcher floor so that wheres its plated under the plastic is sandwiched.
I did this to my old Mustang catcher years back. It was still all good when i sold the mower last year.



Bob.

Ok then that sounds great.So how often do you come to Canberra.As I am keen now.

I commute in Monday - friday, daily.

I usually drop the Missus in Conder, then get to work In Civic myself.

I may come in this weekend to dend to some errands and check out Mugga Ln, if not the soonest i could have the parts here is Tuesday next week (I am collecting a mower from Currarong on the public Holiday)

How about you text me your phone number and i will give you a call if i am comming in this weekend, otherwise i will call moday evening to arrange tuesday. My number is on my profile.

Actually, i could get them in monday, i have to drop her off before i go to the coast.

Ok cool to easy.My mobile number is 0403556783.Sunday is no good for me as I have to go to Sydney and pick up a heap of mowers myself, and parts. Mainly for Victa 18's.One Sheerline and a stack of Model 5 parts mainly bases as I the ones I have here are buggered.Saturday and Monday are good days for me.
Thanks

No worries, I'll let you know when i have them for you.

Thanks for the advice bob.That would work with the cracks.The only big problem is there are 2 very large holes one is where the top handles goes.So naturally the handle is missing as well.That's why I believe I would have to fibre glass it.

Hello Ty I started to pull the VC engine down.It is just a complete waste of my time.Started to get the crank case apart it is just completely full of rust.The crank is just brown and has all those nice rusty spots of flaky rust over it.So I can only imagine how bad the bore is.I will tomorrow pull the rest of the crank case apart,but I do feel it will just be very little usable parts inside.Don't even think the crank case will be usable as it has taken a lot of prising apart,and I'm really only doing damage to it.So if you do have another engine I will take you up on that offer, as I would prefer to rebuild something that still have signs of life.I do believe that this engine has already gone to the God Of Victa.May it rest in pieces.Also do you know what sort of colour to do the base in?I'm a bit confused as when I cleaned it down it was like a charcoal grey on the outer part and green where the motor sits.Is this right?Also does any body have the white fuel tap? As trying to get the old fuel off it the end broke of it.I have black ones but would prefer the white one.
Thanks

Jeffrey, I will make sure to keep a MKII aside, and bring it in this week, i have one here that should not take to much to get up and running. as for the colour, that is a mystery plaguing a few people, i am taking a small section in to the paint shop soon to try and get a match, the actual colour is what you find inside, the outside grey is what happens due to sun fading. i will have a look for a white tap, but i'm not sure if i have on at this point.

BTW, the VC badge went across a range of mowers, i believe it was phased out in 76/77 when the VC was dropped from the mustang and sports. The VC-160 was given 3 releases, 1970, 71 & 72 and was the premium model, it was dropped in 73 when the new premium model was released, the VC-Mustang, along with the mustang came the VC-Sports, and the re-designed VC-125, which was now modeled as a 125cc version of the VC-Sports.

Hi Ty.Need some suggestions on how to remove the flywheel of the VC motor you brought around to me on Saturday. Doesn't matter what I try it just doesn't want to come off.Tapped a thread into the holes on top and used a pulley,All that did was pull the bolts out threads and all.Then trying to do that again ended up snapping the bolt off in the top of the flywheel.Now can't get the remains of the bolt out.The only other flywheel I had this much trouble with was on a Model 2 Victa Rotomo.The only way I got that one was to break up the ignition plate underneath then destroy the the flywheel and then cut the remains off with an angle grinder.Not real keen on doing this in a similar way. HELP?! I'm running out of ideas. Have already spent 5 hours on it so far.I'm starting to run out of patients.A giant ball pane hammer is starting to look good.Then I could smash it off.Problem with that is I could do damage onto the top of the motor.Help any body if you have any ideas.Please let me know.
Thanks let's help save this VC Mark 2 motor before the hammer of deconstruction finds it.

My standard way, and I think the traditional way, is to tap the holes, apply a force within the capability of the puller threads, then bump the center of the puller (directly over the end of the crankshaft) with a hammer. You shouldn't expect to get them off just with the puller screws, the bump with the hammer is essential unless it isn't on tightly.

Having said that, I pulled my B&S flywheel off not long ago just with the puller screws, by accident. Was just about up to the preload I wanted, and it jumped off with a loud bang without any use of the hammer. That is common with the B&S, but I think many other engine types require the bump to make it happen. The same applies with 2 or 3 jaw gear pullers: apply a decent load, then bump the end of the puller screw. Trying to get things off with sheer preload is abusing the puller, plus it often writhes around and doesn't pull straight if you try to do it that way.

I have always used a 3 jaw puller, spray some WD40 or similar and a couple half decent hits with a rubber mallet around the edges, smack the crank one as well using short piece of broom handle or similar [whatever isnt steel and fits in the gap} before attaching the puller.
put a small amount of tension on the puller spray some more WD40, have a smoke and crack a beer, finish beer and tighten puller to remove flywheel. never broken one doing this never had to do more than that either and ive removed some very hard ones that mates have stuffed with all day.

P.S coffee and coke are acceptable subsitutes for beer and so is CHIVAS REGAL
and if you dont smoke twiddle your bloody thumbs for 5 minutes.

HaHaHa.... Emmo!!

I have found (once you manage to drill out the snapped bolt, and re-thread the hole) that if you put the puller on, and ad tension (not too much, just get the pressure on) then soak with WD-40 or Penetrene as Emmo mentioned, it should slowly come free using both Grumpy s method, and a suitable tire lever or long Flathead screw driver.

I.E.

WD-40, Wait, Apply Pressure, WD-40, Wait, Slightly up pressure, Insert lever under lip of flywheel, Slowly work your way around the flywheel, in 1cm steps, lighly tapping the lever with a hammer each time, WD-40, Wait, Bump puller, then go areound with the lever again, upping the pressure slightly each new lap.

thats a good point better off tracking down another one.
i didnt even notice the broken fins when i saw the pic.
id bin it

Thanks guys for sending in the helpful hints.None of which worked.That puppy was really stuck.So the ball pain hammer of destruction come out.

As you can see from pictures.Then very carefully used an angle grinder to make a grove into the center piece then carefully again with a cold cheisel cracked the centre piece.All in all minamal damage done and now I can service ignition and replace flywheel.

Sometimes you just have to be a bit rough to get the job done.Nothing else was working but at least I got there in the end.

ROFLMAO

reminds me of .........well me really

if it wont come apart break the f@%king thing and get another one [applies to almost everything really]

After I got it apart I could see that there was no way it was going to come off the way it should.The pin and the shaft had that much rust on it.I still have to clean a bit more rust of the shaft.So I guess it was the only way of getting it off.I was happy that the flywheel wasn't that good.Didn't have no problems in breaking it.I did when I had to do the same with a Model 2 Rotomo.That was very sad.A very good flywheel that one was.

Wow! I'm glad i chucked in that extra flywheel with it, i'd feel pretty crap right now otherwise, if you need any other parts (Key, Cam, etc.) let me know, i should have some here.

MMMM, Being a bit lazy here, (by not looking back at prior posts) but a crank case full of ice water or over night in the bait freezer and a gas burner around the flywheel centre the next day would have got that off I reckon...(sorry the fitter in me coming out). How's is the crank for tru now? bent? Might be a wrecker now...

That is what I was worried about to.Was pushing on the bore side wasn't keen on pushing the other side.With it being as stuck as it was it would have broken for sure.Ty thanks man I don't need a key for it as I have one here of the old sized motor.Not sure about the cam yet I haven't tried to remove it yet,still got rust to remove and lube the shaft before I do that. I did have to remove points and ignition plate when getting old flywheel centre off.Now I have no workshop manual so what are the points cap suppose to be and what is the best way to get the timing right?

Perhaps whip the plug out and spin her over, set something up to judge your eye against it, it wont have to be bent much to make it U/S....

Geez hope i never strike one that stubborn, i would bin it.


I wiggled one off by hand tonight. I think ive only ever threaded and pulled one. Usually a good soaking with WD40 and a couple of screwdrivers sorts them.


Dont hit the end of the crank with a hammer, i bought a tilt a cut that someone had damaged the crank thread on, was quoted $75 for a die nut. In the end the guy down at the mower shop let me bring the machine down and borrow his die nut to chase the thread. Did the nut up rather carefully and its never missed a beat since.

Hope you have better luck with the rest of it.

Bob, Briggs and Stratton say you should always put the flywheel retaining nut on the crankshaft thread while you pull the flywheel off the taper: it should be just on the thread for about three quarters of the nut's length. That way the flat plate puller bears on the top of the nut, not the end of the crankshaft. Once the flywheel has been pulled off the taper, you remove the flat plate puller, and the flywheel retaining nut, before you lift off the flywheel.

Ok, so for the timing, take the piston to TDC (top Dead Centre), then turn her aniti-clockwise, till the piston has moved down exactly 3mm from the TDC point.

Adjust the breaker plate so that the brakers are only just begining to open, tighten it up, then re-check your mesuremrents (begins open at 3mm from TDC, full Braker point gap is 0.685mm)

Hi fast grass no the shaft is not bent.It didn't receive blows to make it bend.Although I did have to destroy flywheel to remove it didn't get massive amount of force to do any damage.

Thanks for that Ty.Just going to have to buy a set of feeler gauges now can't seem to find my anywhere. In-fact when I sat and thought about it I don't think I've ever got them back from when I lent them to a friend back when we were in Batemans Bay some 4 years ago.Anyway you get that.

Have you found out yet what the proper colour green the vc should be?

Not yet, i have my cuttings now (i took a few samples from the inner side of the chute on a few scrap bases) and hopefully i will get to a paint shop this comming week.

Are you getting close to painting time?

Both bases are just about ready.Really just need a scuff over with some sand paper.Have the back flaps in a solution right now cleaning the paint off and neutralising the rust ( I hope I spelt that right).I will most likely run a steel brush underneath to get them a bit cleaner.So I guess if you don't find out what the colour is I might run the bases up to the paint shop.Maybe next week,but most likely the week after that.Both motors have been cleaned.I am going to paint the bores in black as they look (In places) rusty.Still having some problems in getting the heads clean enough.Again maybe a wire brush on the end of drill.Going to get some gumption to clean the other plastic parts down.Just started to work on repairing the catch(Wow that is looking like fun).All in all it is going along well.

What is the relationship between the VC and the VC Mustang?

Also, I have found another head, but it has numbers stamped into it.Does that mean anything?

Following the Run of the VC-160 & 125, the VC label was continued onto a few new mowers in 1973 (the VC-160 Was dropped) this was the replacement for the VC-160, the VC-Mustang, and the new Mid-Range, the VC-Sports.

The Mustang has had a number of different releases, the first few, 1973, 1974, 9175 and maybe 1976 it was labeled the VC-Mustang, later the VC was dropped, and it was called just Mustang.

The first one or two VC-Mustangs had the G3 Metal Carby, then it went to the G4 Plastic, the first of witch had it facing backwards to let the air hose in, the next year however, it was turned around, and a hole has made in the cowl to let the hose in on the other side.

if you are looking to go within the VC-range and make the full VC Family, i would start by tracking down the 1973 or 1974 VC-Mustang's, the ones with the metal carby.

Don't worry about putting to much effort into hunting for a VC-Mustang of the later times, with the plastic carby, they are fairly common, and one will crop up without to much effort.

Pop up some photo's of the head and I'll let you know if its good for the job.

I'm not sure about the bases, but i will look over the ones i have tonight.

You are looking for the mustang with the same air filter and throttle control as the VC-160 (in White)

The plastic carby uses the black one with the air filter and control in the same unit.

I'll try and dig up a photo for you.

I got it wrong it is the one with the decompression value.However it is a better head than the one for the mark 2.I don't want to put it on if it doesn't fit the era.Here are the pictures.


Don't know if you can read the number but it is 189

Looks normal, does the cup inside seem the same size and shape as the one it is replacing?

I don't know I haven't pulled the other off yet as I wasn't sure as to whether I was going change it,as I what them to be as original as they would have left the assembly line.

Hi Ty have a question for you.Do you have another VC-160 Mark II engine?I pulled the Mark II engine down that I got of you.It's not a good story.The rings are shot,the piston is scored and the bore would need to be re-bored.Bascilly it's about the same amount of work as the one I have here.The one it was replacing.You wouldn't have known what it would have been like unless you pulled it down to.I mean yes it is fixable but I didn't want to spend that kind of money on it.I guess that why it's here.





If you look on the right hand side you can see how the ring is thinner on that side.


Rust all over the inside of the crank.Would have to be cleaned off.So rust doesn't go through the rest of the engine.



Even after I cleaned this side you can still see the groves in the piston.All in all about the same size job as the one it was replacing.So if you have another Please I need it.All I can say is it has been a while since this was a running engine.My guess is it would have blown some smoke as well.Let me know how you get on.Thanks man

No worries, I will have a dig around and see what i can work out, naturally it's replacement will be free!

[Censored] your a good lad.I had my head in my hands when I seen it.Do you have another,that's what I'm worried about?I was going to give it the big clean tomorrow,and start the shine processes.Anyway I will have to find something else to do tomorrow.Any more ideas as to what I can do with the twin,it's still doing the same thing as before,being backwards that is.

I think i have one, I will have to see, but if i dont have another, i will get you one, I dont feel good selling something that cant be used (Wish i had had the time to give this a good look over)

Thanks Ty I appreciated your effort.I wished it wasn't such a big job either.I was looking forward to getting it back together and working again.

[Censored] I started to pull the VC-160 Mark II engine I had the one that came on the mower and [Censored].I got it down to the crank, con-rod,piston and bore.I stopped there not worth trying to separate.Though it into my small,but growing larger scrap pile.The only parts salvageable was head,crankcase (big big clean needed to be used)boss nut(for cutting disc),spring for carby,nuts and bolts.The rest is all throw away.Not a good start to the restore at all.If it was going as well as the VC-160 Mark I restore,I would be very happy.That is still going well engine is now together and ready to go.Need to work on the rest now.

Well, I have looked in the shed, and there is good and bad news, crank cases, pistons, heads, cranks, ignitions, con-rods for the MKII, no worries, the one thing i can't unearth is the Cylinder, apart from one that i fear is worse.

I will get everything i have to you asap, and as soon as i can get my hands on a good S70 MKII Cylinder, It's yours!

(Naturally, this gives you first priority to any S70 MKII Engines we find on our trip, if i cant get you one first)

Also, as for the dud engine, feel free to keep it if you like, and salvage what you can (I remember it having a good spark!)

Ok cool man.Do you know where I can get it bored out then.Really didn't want to go that way,but I may have too.

To be honest, it may just need to be re-honed, I have never tried either myself, but if you ask the forum, with a few good shots of how bad the damage is, I'm sure you will get help.

I am on the hunt for a new one though, so maybe one will turn up!

I'm fairly sure it will need a re-bore the grooves a pretty deep.To hone it would only make the new set of rings to lose.I mean you talk out re-boring which would be 20thou when you think of it 20 thousand-th of an inch is really not the big,and I would say at that point the grooves maybe gone.It is that bad.

Not happy.Was going to do some work today on my VC's,but it'as to [Censored] cold to go outside today.[Censored] [Censored] [Censored]!!

Hi new member here looking at old threads so I don't ask a question that has been answered before. I know this thread is old.
I am restoring a 1964 Victa Corvette 160cc Mark 1 70 series 2 stroke engine number 96801690. I just noticed in your picture that the head gasket is paper and not metal, mine is the same and I thought that someone in the past made a mistake hence all the oil that is blowing on the cooling fins.
Now I am confused should it be paper gasket or should I replace it with multi foil gasket sheet that I have to cut it out?
Also the the priming pump with the little spring that look like it is from a pen needs an o ring, mine is out of shape and sit between the spring and the washer at the base, I put it under the washer but it doesn't grip the pin, so I'm guessing fuel will leak. Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks,

Rich

Hi Corvette,

First off ,this can't be a 1964 mower .

1967 was the first 160 cc

https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.a...ette-story-with-dating-and-id-guide.html

Sounds like the o ring should be smaller to grip the fuel tickler .

I've only seen the paper gaskets on the 160.

Cheers
Max.

Hi Max,
I stand corrected, the mower shop told me it was 1964 when I walk in with the faulty fuel tank, it had a hole in it, the was back in 2002.
I will make some gaske.
Thank you

Gaskets are readily available on ebay