OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Victa Walk-Behind Rotary Mowers VC-160 Restoration

I picked up this very sad VC today. Defiantly in need of some loving.Just wondering if you could help me identify which model it is.It does have a mark 2 engine on it.What sort of carby do I need for it? As it doesn't have that.Do you know where I can get some parts for it? As I am going to restore it.I need another catcher,carby,throttle control,air cleaner and hose.That's what I know before deconstruction.I hope I can save the engine as it is seized.However I do have another mark 2 engine here.I have added some pictures of the poor old girl.Hope you can help me out.
Thanks
Jeffrey

Hi Jeffrey, and a warm welcome to the forum. Good work on trying to save a classic old VC from the scrappers axe, and when restored will look a treat.

Re parts, the Online Store will be able to supply some new parts; and hopefully some of our members may be able to have a look in their sheds for some serviceable bits.
Joe Carrol (our resident Victa guru) will hopefully jump in here with some advice as will TY (Mr Davis).

My advice would be to carefully disassemble what you have there, clean thoroughly,and give everything a close inspection, to see which is serviceable or not.
Make a list of the parts you need, and then post the list in the "Items Wanted" topic on the forum.
Also decide at what level you want to take the restoration and also if you are going to use the machine or display it.
Please take some pics and post them as you go along, as I'm sure all members would like to see them, also it helps build an archive that can help other members contemplating a similar resto.
Jeffrey, once again,

Hi Jeffery,

Wow, this poor old girl does need a little help!

The Mower, what yopu have is a second series Victa VC-160, this was released in 1971 and run till the following years release date, when the next model came out.

It is identified by the large crescent shaped latched in the 4th picture, that lock the lower handlebar hinge in place, the first picture shows the parts of the old metal tooth grid height adjustor, this was removed by the next model, and if you take the catch off i imagine you will find the flap on the back is one solid peice of metal, as opposed to the next year, where the lower inch of the flap was a seperate peice.

The engine for this model is indeed a Series 70 MKII, this would have the wide/large head decompression valve, on the long stem, a Victa G3 Carburettor (for originality on this model, you would have had the black float, with the brass pin, and the cast alloy float bowl)

With the throttle controll, your best bet is to get the one sold here (The top one on the list) and, depending how original you want to go, swap the thumb peice over (re-using old cses can be problematic)

the online store also has a number of G3 carburettor parts, under the Victa section of the Engines menu, in the above link, go to page one, and the throttle cable and end hook are there (I will check the lenght youy need for the cable tonight, i think its the long one)

with the catcher, using the old one, go down to "Tiny's Green Shed" at the mugga lane tip near Hume, and find a replacement if they have one, last time i was there, they had the remains of an even sadder MKI VC-160, i would not reccomend bothering with this one f it is still there, diferent engine. (if you can, get the catcher in dark green, black was the VC-125, and replacement catcher)

Let me know how you go, if you need help getting the carby i have a few re-conditioned G3 carby's lying around, and i work in canberra (Daily Commuter) so it would not be hard to get it to you. if you get stuck on any other parts, let me know, and i will see what i can do.

With the seized engine, this is a bit of a minefield, if its badly seized, then really, its not worth it, save what you can of the flywheel, case & ignition, and store it, then fit your other engine to the base.

Hope this helps, let me know how you go.

Just to check, when you say you want to restore this, what exactly do you mean, just getting fixed up, clean and running, or a full on original restoration.

if your going to be fully restoring it, i have alot of the info and pictures of the parts you need, i can also help you get them (things like the corect dress-cowl screws, original float, the catch flap handle, air filter holder, hanle lever, etc.)

When I say restore I mean to have it as thought it just rolled off the assembly line.I'm defiantly not going to mow any lawns with it,but I still want to be able to start and run it as though I was going to mow.Also to have it as a display model as well.I'm sorry to sound dumb but I have no idea of part numbers.Now I believe it is suppose to have a G3 carby,but I don't even know what that looks like.Is there a picture anywhere of it?I have pulled the mower down.I am hopeful that I can save the engine.Picton is stuck up the top of the bore,but it does have a little bit of movement(Fingers crossed on that).Does any one know how to get the handlebars of the bass I'm very stuck on that and don't want to damage them.
Thanks again guys
Jeffrey

Right, well i was hoping you would say that, i have a soft spot for these mowers.

With the engine, i managed to fee one once by flooding it with motor oil. i removed the engine, pored about a 1/2 cup of 2 stroke fuel into each open orifice, then filled everywhere i could with the car oil, i did this over an old bin, supporting the engine on to bars. i let it all soak overnight, then the next day, turned it up the other way, and let it drain for another 24 hours into the old bin, i then flushed it with 2-stroke fuel, and let it air out for an hour, before slowly moving it small amounts, stopping every few mm to spray a dose of WD-40 into the ports and spark plug hole, after much time, and a few full revolutions of this, it was fee enough to dis-assemble and clean up. no re bore was required in this case, and it still runs full strength first pull 2 years later.

This is a Victa G3 Carburettor (supported on a TV connector):


To remove the bars: this will be a little tricky depending on rust, with the aid of WD-40, remove the bolts of the back of those 2 'Fat' swing levers that Holt the bars from folding, then remove these from the shell, now remove the top 1/2 of the handles, then undo the bolts on the ends of the handle stubs, inside the rear chute area., the handles should then be able to be gently prised out.

I cant tell from the pictures for sure, but i am concerned there may be something missing from your inlet manifold, is it possible you could take a clearer shot of the second picture as the nipple for decompression may have snapped of your cylinder.

a few questions, is the 'View Stem' on the bottom of your fuel cap complete (should be about 3 inches or so long, are all 5 screws holding the cover on the same, and are you planning to salvage, or replace the starter with one that has the original sticker not so faded?

I have found a few things you might find useful:
-a working starter with less faded sticker
-the catch flap handle, not broken off at the end
-a full stem fuel cap
-5 original VC-160 dress cowl screws
-an original long white air filter canister, with lid
-the original throttle thumb piece
-the white handle bar centre locking lever.

Would you like any of these?

Hi Blumbly, Ty,
I was out at Mugga tip this arvo and there are a few mustangs out there that may be good for parts. There is a green mustang with a busted front axle that seems mostly intact i think. A heap of black catchers too..most busted to some degree. I grabbed a green cowled mustang from there last week but am yet to look closely at it but it's intact.
Good luck with your VC!

Sounds like it might be time i had another look this weekend!

There are a few ok B&S 200/225 series out there too that look like good parts material!!

I used to love going to mugga lane and also the flemington road shops. Bought many loads of crap from both of them

Memorable buys: a victa low arch "commodore" perfect condition $10
Rover turbothrust 5hp I/C btiggs engine. $5

No longer have te energy anymore to drive 4 hours to go shoppiing for only a few hours.....

Its not a bad place, Been a few changes in the last few years, they kicked revolve out (They moved down the road, and have just been booted from there aswell) so that the Govt. could put a commercial mob in there for full rent (Revolve was classified charity) that was Thiess, who got done for varios issues to do with not paying staff, and they were overpriced.

Now its called Tiny's Green Shed, its run quite well, alloy base mowers $20, others $10 - $15, the best ones sometimes go up to the front for a bit more where they can keep an eye on them, as people do tend to pocket parts off the main lot, which is out back (Most victa LM/G4 will come with no float plate, Briggs lose the fliter housing and varios other bits are nicked.

there the best place left for it, revolve (down for now, but will be back) does not get as many mowers, and often has none, and the mob up at Mitchell (Thiess) usually sell them for $80 (usually somwhat running, or at least close, but not always, and no garauntee)

Apart from that it never hurts to try the scrap metal yards!

Wow it's good to see so many helpful people.I might just in-fact go out to mugga lane tomorrow now and have a good look.I haven't been out there since the big uproar as to who was running the joint.


I knew that was the sort of carby it was suppose to have,manly because I don't have one.I have seen them before.On starts the search for one.After pulling mower down I can see what had happened.Somebody had ran over a fishing net with it and it all got tangled on top of the cutting disc and on the bottom of the crank shaft.Enough there I believe to make the engine stall and not run again.So my guess is they didn't realize so they just tossed the mower out.The only reason engine is seized as it doesn't have the carby.To answer your questions (Mr Davis)The stem on the fuel cap is broken.It does have all the 5 small bolts on cowl.I was going to save the starter in hope that new stickers could be obtained.I am certainly interested in the parts you said you have.It would almost be all the parts I need.I think as far as the catcher is I may have to take a crash course in fibre-glassing as I believe it is going to be the only way to save it.It is fairly extensive damaged.I posted the pictures you wanted,the pipe and the hose for the decompression valve are still intact.
I think the soaking in oil to un-seize sounds like a great idea.So I will leave at that and go and start pouring oil into combustion camber.
Thank You all for your advice.
Jeffrey

Hi Jeffery, glad to see the resto started, best of luck with it, don't forget to post some pics as you go along.

I'll get that 'Resto Kit' together for you this weekend if i can, i have 2 of these that i am going to be stripping for parts.

Would you like a G3 carburettor, if so, i can give you 2 options, i have a restored one here you can have, or i can give you a complete, but un-cleaned, and un-tested one off a scrap mower, and you can try your hand at restoring it (the diagrams for it are in the manuals section) if your interested, let me know how you would like to go about it and i'll get one out for you.

I'll let you know when i have the rest of that kit together for you, i may even be able to spare a catcher.

Oh i might just mention, if you do want the carby, Restored i can give it to you for $10, un-tested for $5, if i have the catcher, I'm happy to take $10 for it.

The rest of the items i mentioned (the 'Resto Kit') are free if you want them.

Well as far as the carby's are I would be happy with either one.I leave that up to you.You have excited me about the catcher.Anything to save me hours of trying to fix this one.Not saving it can't be done it will just take a very long time.
Thanks for helping I can see this project coming only fairly quickly at this stage.

No worries, i have both carbies here, so i will bring them along and you can take a look, I have a spare G3 service guide i beleive, so i can give you that if you decide to tackle the carby yourself.

I have had a think, and by memmory i have 6 VC-160 catchers, 1 is auto drive, so not for this, 3 i would like to keep for there respective mowers, and 1 needs repairs, so that leaves 1 that i should be able to spare.

i have had a little look at the shop, as some parts are best bought new, here is a few things i would reccomend, and the exact link to save you getting the wrong one for your mower.

1) Series 70/80 160cc Gasket Kit
2) Air Filter Seal (Goes Below Eliment, Inside Holder)
3) Long Type Victa Air Filter Eliment (This will fit in the holder i will give you)
4) Victa Series 70/80 HT Lead Grommet (Goes in the hole in the Crank Case, Where the HT Lead comes out)
5) Series 70 Spark Plug Connection Cover

If you do decide to do the carby yourself, here are some items you may find need replacing along the way:

1) G2/G3 Carburettor Float Bowl Gasket
2) G2/G3 Carburettor Gear Box Gasket
3) G3 Throttle Control Arm (If you loo...if your has the stem broken, replace it)
4) G2/G3 Carburettor Govenor Gears (Ch... cracked, if so, heres the replacements)
5) G3 Govenor Spring (Only worry about this if yours is warped or bent beyond repair)

Aslo, A few more ones that may be usefull to you, again, these will fit your model:

Fuel Filter
Ignition Points
Ignition Condensor
Ignition Coil
Muffler
Muffler Clip
Starter Pawls
Intake Hose


And theres this, the throttle control, as mentioned before, this is the right unit, but the black bit is not the same, i will give you the corect knob for the lever, and you can fit it to this.

Replacement Control Lever

Hope this helps, the shop has many more parts listed that fit your machine, but these ones are the ones i feel you are most likely to encounter a need for, if other issues arise, we will get to those parts then.

Jeffery, if you look in the Victa frames section theres a thread i started about catchers. The black one i have got pictures of was a big mess. Had tin plate all over it and a big bit of aluminum under the bottom that was bent to the wrong shape.
I suppose an hour all up with the soldering iron to get it how it looks now.
A soldering iron and some thin strips of plastic cut from a busted bit of catcher with tin snips.
Its sort of like welding with a TIG or Oxy, melt the plastic and you need to do it full depth, then work the melted plastic back in the crack then with some thin strips of plastic off another catcher, melt that in as filler and tidy it up as best you can. Only thing is that plastic does not solidify as quick as metal, so if you keep that in mind, even with a smallish soldering iron like mine you can still get a fair area of plastic liquified at once, almost to the drip/sag stage.
If its badly cracked up, the best thing is to tack it at about 25mm spacings and get the whole thing looking like it should then go to work. They can be a pain to get into the right spot, catchers never seem to sid where i want them. About an inch is a good size to work on at one time, over any more distance the plastic thends too cool to much as you work back and forwards. Thats sort of how i do it, like a grader, back and forth getting it hot, then work the liquid plastic back in. Then go over the top melting a thin strip of extra plastic down onto it to fill it in.

If the underside needs to sit on something (like the top lip) you will need to get under and sort it so its flat. If you done it right, where you have fixed a split there should be blobs of plastic coming out from where the crack was on the inside. A row of lumps and bumps.

Comes out pretty solid, not as strong as original, but its better than no catcher at all. Only thing is it can look a bit ugly. Ive seen some of the motor bike plastics guys have done and they have sanded and worked the surface back down flat and its barely noticable at all.

The one pictured will be plated on the underside with galv sheet metal. I hand form it up out of flat, get the shape right so its snug up on the bottom where it sits over the axle. Use the steel lip thing thats in them std and rivet through the tin through the plastic through the strip and another couple of bits inside the catcher floor so that wheres its plated under the plastic is sandwiched.
I did this to my old Mustang catcher years back. It was still all good when i sold the mower last year.



Bob.

Ok then that sounds great.So how often do you come to Canberra.As I am keen now.

I commute in Monday - friday, daily.

I usually drop the Missus in Conder, then get to work In Civic myself.

I may come in this weekend to dend to some errands and check out Mugga Ln, if not the soonest i could have the parts here is Tuesday next week (I am collecting a mower from Currarong on the public Holiday)

How about you text me your phone number and i will give you a call if i am comming in this weekend, otherwise i will call moday evening to arrange tuesday. My number is on my profile.