OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Victa Two Stroke Engines points and condenser eliminator kit for early vict

hi all, been fooling around with old victas lately rebuilding them with new piston rings ect, i have an old "70's"series 70 mark 3 160cc 2 stroke with points and condenser and also a vc full crank 160cc the next modlle up i think with smaller flywheel and electronic ignition with the older stle top end and g3 carb, i recently filed down and regaped the points on the old series seventy and installed a new plug and i could not belive the diference this thing had , will start with the lightest tug imaginable on the pull cord first time every time even without a prime "you could almost breath on it and she will take off" but the question is i want to convert the old points system on the series 70 with a points and condenser eliminator kit i have one already a blue atom here is the photo



i bought it years ago for an old "65"jhonsen seagull outboard for the exact same reason and never used it i tried installing it in the mower it gave a spark but did not run at all dispite many pulls then i found this
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Atom-Electronic-ignition-module-suit-early-Victa-/140533397592
but there are no more availible i cant find any anywhere on the net
is there an equivelent part that will do the same job....???? i notice when the full crank victa comandos apeard just afterwards they ran electronic ignition would a module off one of them or a power tourqe moter work the same way if i used one of them without changaing flywheel/coil any help on where to find or what to look for to get one of these points and condenser eliminator kits for early victas would be so great as im planing two mod one of these two the max with help from
(SIR) Graham Bell - Two Stroke Performance Tuning
a vice and some files and whack it on a scooter with a go kart clutch from what ive reserched you can get 16-20hp out of a stock 4-5hp victa 2 stroke if you get it right but they go boom quick but hey if dont make the scooter damm ill get my lawns done fast here are some pics any way off my rebuilt mowers b4 after not quite finished but theyve both done atleast 100 lawns each and still showing no signs dieing soon

Steptoe,

Click HERE for the module that will do the trick of replacing the points and condensor.

thanks bruce ill definatly give em a look as for perfomance diference can anyone explain how the performance is afected between both setups? eg. bottom end power torqe revs ect. any experiance with this sort of thing "anyone" cheers guys

Steptoe, you are just replacing one ignition system with another, without changing the spark plug position, mixture, compression ratio, etc. Furthermore you are not changing the coil, so you are just replacing one method for triggering the coil with another method. Provided that ignition timing is not changed, and neither trigger provides a higher peak primary voltage than the other, the two systems should give the same result at reasonable engine speeds (at astronomical engine speed the points system might run into mechanical limitations, but this is unlikely with a single cylinder engine unless you were talking about chainsaw-like speeds).

In practice there may be a small difference in ignition timing, because one system uses the position of the module relative to the flywheel magnets to trigger the ignition, while the other uses the points. The points give a very stable trigger point, while the voltage induced by the flywheel magnets may have a built-in time delay which might be a constant amount of time rather than a constant number of crankshaft degrees. You would need to test that by using a timing light to find where ignition actually occurs with each trigger source at various engine speeds. The exact outcome might vary depending on exactly how the electronic trigger is designed.

If you were trying to get maximum power from the engine one of the first things you would do would be to find a way to fit a variable ignition advance system so that the ignition timing would be right at high speed (somewhere around 30 degrees before TDC) while still retarding to about 5 degrees before TDC for starting and idling.

ha ha yeh the [Censored] thing was in there and did not notice till i took the cover off " a usaual sing the mower has reached the end" this one i use for mowing so i rplaced it with a new one for easy starting
so back to the ignotion would a cdi unit say such one on a two stroke dirt bike for example be adaptable to curve the timeing as like you mentioned above wich i hadent thought of yet

It is unlikely that the ignition timing curve for a fairly high performance 2 stroke, chosen at random, would work well in a fairly low performance 2 stroke, chosen at random. Modern ignition systems are mapped at various loads and speeds, and the computer does a "lookup" operation to choose an ignition timing to suit the combination of intake vacuum and engine speed (and probably altitude and ambient temperature as well). The Capacitive Discharge Ignition unit just generates the spark, it does not determine the timing. A modern ignition system - at least, a car one anyway - has a whole suite of sensors to provide data for the engine computer.

Developing an improved performance Victa engine would take an engine dynamometer, some fairly advanced instrumentation, and a lot of time spent in libraries getting into the issues. Of course you would need a supply of engines and engine parts to use up along the way, plus a draftsman and a good machine shop to make modifications. It would most likely take years of work even when you had all that, unless you did it full-time or had quite a lot of help. There is a short-cut way, where you just read the magazines and blogs, and try to copy what someone else has done as accurately as possible. You can't build a world-beater by copying, but you can know what you are going to get before you start the build project. One thing you can be fairly sure about: if you just guess, you will get bad results.

I remember an amateur enthusiast way back in the early 1960s who decided he was going to supercharge his MGA. He had his engine professionally dynamometer-tested, then rebuilt it with the blower and his other modifications, and had it put back on the dynamometer. The result was almost exactly the same horsepower that it had before he started. The reason was obvious to engineers but not to him: he fitted an ordinary racing camshaft, with a long overlap period (both valves open at once) at the end of the exhaust stroke, but with a supercharged engine all that did was dump all the supercharger pressure into the exhaust system, so his engine effectively had no supercharge pressure. He needed a supercharger-type camshaft, that closed the exhaust valve early to allow pressure to build up in the cylinder at the beginning of the intake stroke, and maintain the pressure throughout that stroke. You can learn all this stuff the hard way by studying it, or you can copy someone, but blind experiments very seldom teach you anything.

Anyway, that is more than enough ranting. The short summary is, I think the most practical way to build your high performance Victa is to get hold of a standard set of hot-up parts that have been designed and documented by someone else who spent a lot of time and money doing it.

Im with Grumpy.

Sorry but i missed the purpose of the excersise. Is it just to mow grass???


Personally i would say that a full crank Victa has more than enough standard to mow as fast as i can push short of jogging. Well thats 'Lawn' mowing. If you were cutting grass you would use something else, something like a Super 24 which even with the same Victa motor on it has enough HP to chew grass nicely.


Bob.