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Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 231
Likes: 11
Apprentice level 3
Hi All,

Now that my rescued Deutscher 660 is running pretty well I've turned my attention to the pretty widespread though thankfully relatively superficial rust on it's frame/chassis. I'm wondering the best 'bang for buck (ie best result minimal effort) approach for it.

Firstly, unlike the previous owner I'll be keeping it out of the elements.

My thoughts are to where easily possible - hit existing rust with a converter/remover so that I have a chemically stable surface to work with. The Deutscher has so many tricky parts to get to this is somewhat hard.

For the big panel sections and cutting deck I bought some nice Rustoleum dark green paint - and will apply these - the though being makes it look 'purty' on the top panels and for the cutting deck underside, helps delay it rusting through due to after use grass debris etc. Will apply a bunch of coats also using a good metal primer.

But for the the trickier to get to parts - what should I do to stop rusting? Chill out and not worry or I could go with some Fish Oil or worst case apply a bunch of automotive waxes etc?

Likely overthinking as I'll prolly have a heart attack whilst using it many years before it packs it in due to rust - but trying to keep it looking reasonably ok until then for the next owner! ;-)

Cheers in advance for any of your tips.

Nick

Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 7,988
Likes: 193
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Hi Nick,
My go to would be fish oil and leave it till it dries which can be a long time, but it gets into all those tricky spots you can't get to with a brush or spray

1 member likes this: N1KK0
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 231
Likes: 11
Apprentice level 3
Hi Norm,

Hope you're well.

Will do, have a few cans of it - my Dad was a big fan of the stuff, have memories of the new Peugeot he bought getting a dosing up and down with it, smelt to high heaven but never rusted!

Cheers.

Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 231
Likes: 11
Apprentice level 3
Gee phosphoric acid based rust converters are almost more trouble than they're worth. Paint on, then a bunch of the white powdery residue is left - have to remove that - which is an absolute PITA - apparently it can cause major issues with affecting your primer's ability to grip.

Then you also have to ensure you've washed off any acidic residue so it's not under the primer - as if you're using a zinc rich paint this can also have problems.

Found a recipe for a citric acid based one - for every 1L of water add 100g of citric acid and EITHER 40g of Sodium Carbonate (Washing Soda) OR 63g of Baking Soda. Also add a bit of detergent as a surfactant. Works ok - tad slower but more user friendly and no white residue.


Going to apply a bunch of paints in certain spots - fish oil in others where it's better suited.

Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,516
Likes: 199
SENIOR TECHNICIAN & HISTORIAN
G'day Nick,

I've used white vinegar before and paper towel ,I haven't used it to hold on a metal surface upside down but it will
hold on a vertical surface .Put the paper towel on and paint it with white vinegar with a paint brush and keep
the paper towel damp by painting every time it dries out then after a few days clean and paint.


Cheers
Max.

1 member likes this: N1KK0
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 231
Likes: 11
Apprentice level 3
Thanks guys, not sure exactly why I did but of course I took the 'hardest path' ......so the deck has had a quality metal primer and then 2 coats of epoxy enamel. Then 2 coats of regular enamel over that i a pretty close green to the Deutscher OEM colour. I did consider going with silver, as looked pretty darn good but had the dark green as was so used it.

Hit the rest of it with a similar approach - utter overkill to the max but I've had a shockig time and wanted to put my mind elsewhere - painting this machine filled with bits and pieces was an easy way to do this.

Just used a brush, but went with a small foam roller for the last coat/s - not that I was chasing a showroom finish as my shed is dusty as can be and plenty of crud got on it as I moved around but she's looking a darn treat, have no doubt she'd easily sell for double+ what I paid a few months back but I've no interest in that if she goes as well as the testing indicated she should.

Will hit a few of the really tricky spots with some fish oil, up into the frame etc - but we'll see how the paint holds up, no stones etc on the property but hard tree bits will likely give it a flogging - so will redo ever winter if it seems pretty durable - used good quality paint (White Knight & Rustoleum & didn't skimp on the prep). Time will tell - will chuck some pix up when she's ready to roll but I suspect the forum big wigs will approve - or atleast I hope so. Cheers.

Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 7,988
Likes: 193
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Hi Nick,
waiting to see how it has turned out, any restoration on a Deutscher is well worth the effort

1 member likes this: N1KK0

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