Though not strictly lawn care related, I am sure many of us have rosebushes acting as a nice backdrop to the lawn.
If you are in WA, you may have heard of the recent significant breakout of this awful little blighter over rose bushes. Initially, it was being reported in the northern suburbs (Noranda, Morley) however it has quickly spread. It is basically all over now.
If you happen to listen to the gardening program on 6pr of a saturday morning, they got to the point last week where they said outright:
"If your roses have chilli thrip, don't ring in, we will do a blanket statement later on"
Indeed, I fixed a mans chainsaw last month who was at his wits end and intended on cutting the bushes off at ground level
Basically, it looks like someone took to the new shoots with a blow torch.
The problem is there is much debate on the best solution and poor information ( much like Covid gargling with bleach (haha)).
Some bunnings (including cannington) had displays touting everything from Yates Success to garlic based fruitfly treatments as a solution.
Others reckon copper will solve it (strongly advise against it).
Naturasoap and white oil type products are much touted on the gardening program
Mavrik (tau-fluvinate) didn't touch chilli thrip on the roses, nor did white oil. I had an inkling Confidor would help, and set about looking for what was best.
The first step suggested is the strengthening of cell walls with sulphate of potash.
Note - bunnings are rip off merchants with this. I went to ag supply store and bought a 20kg bag of 'Solusop' for about $40 last year so this went on straight away along with a decent helping of Neutrog Rooster Booster
Through necessity, I began researching last month on the best solutions. Eventually found several studies done in the USA regarding this pest and termination methods.
In case anyone else reading this has the same problem, this is a relative summary of many articles
Their results were: The best - Cyantraniliprole - fast 70% knockdown with good residual. BUT only place I can find sells it for $500 FOR 750ml!
Spinosad (eg yates natures way fruitfly) is easily available, had good initial knockdown around the 60%, but poor residual beyond 5 days, down to 7% 14 days post
Spintoram (Yates Success) - as per spinosad
Imidacloprid (Confidor) is one of the best BUT care must be taken re bees.
A rotation of treatments is recommended, and plain old Bifenthrin was found to have good effect.
The plan for tomorrow is hit them with some Confidor out of the shed very carefully, then follow up with some bifenthrin next week. Some seasol and powerfeed as well.
If it goes well, I will order a product called 'Apparent Cocky 200sc' (Imidacloprid 200) 1L for about $50 from over east
Will see how it goes
This was how they looked last season - now nary a bloom
Though not strictly lawn care related, I am sure many of us have rosebushes acting as a nice backdrop to the lawn.
If you are in WA, you may have heard of the recent significant breakout of this awful little blighter over rose bushes. Initially, it was being reported in the northern suburbs (Noranda, Morley) however it has quickly spread. It is basically all over now.
If you happen to listen to the gardening program on 6pr of a saturday morning, they got to the point last week where they said outright:
"If your roses have chilli thrip, don't ring in, we will do a blanket statement later on"
Indeed, I fixed a mans chainsaw last month who was at his wits end and intended on cutting the bushes off at ground level
Basically, it looks like someone took to the new shoots with a blow torch.
The problem is there is much debate on the best solution and poor information ( much like Covid gargling with bleach (haha)).
Some bunnings (including cannington) had displays touting everything from Yates Success to garlic based fruitfly treatments as a solution.
Others reckon copper will solve it (strongly advise against it).
Naturasoap and white oil type products are much touted on the gardening program
Mavrik (tau-fluvinate) didn't touch chilli thrip on the roses, nor did white oil. I had an inkling Confidor would help, and set about looking for what was best.
The first step suggested is the strengthening of cell walls with sulphate of potash.
Note - bunnings are rip off merchants with this. I went to ag supply store and bought a 20kg bag of 'Solusop' for about $40 last year so this went on straight away along with a decent helping of Neutrog Rooster Booster
Through necessity, I began researching last month on the best solutions. Eventually found several studies done in the USA regarding this pest and termination methods.
In case anyone else reading this has the same problem, this is a relative summary of many articles
Their results were: The best - Cyantraniliprole - fast 70% knockdown with good residual. BUT only place I can find sells it for $500 FOR 750ml!
Spinosad (eg yates natures way fruitfly) is easily available, had good initial knockdown around the 60%, but poor residual beyond 5 days, down to 7% 14 days post
Spintoram (Yates Success) - as per spinosad
Imidacloprid (Confidor) is one of the best BUT care must be taken re bees.
A rotation of treatments is recommended, and plain old Bifenthrin was found to have good effect.
The plan for tomorrow is hit them with some Confidor out of the shed very carefully, then follow up with some bifenthrin next week. Some seasol and powerfeed as well.
If it goes well, I will order a product called 'Apparent Cocky 200sc' (Imidacloprid 200) 1L for about $50 from over east
Will see how it goes
This was how they looked last season - now nary a bloom[/quote]
Great explanation and diagnosis Tyler.
I use Bifenthrin and Imidacloprid for "everything" in the lawn and have found them to be excellent. Bifenthrin is also sprayed around the house as a barrier to anything that crawls (including cockroaches) every 3 months at 25ml/5L..
There is growing research about the harmful effects of Imidacloprid, but there's nothing concrete yet. I use it on my citrus trees (with Bifenthrin) after the bees have done their bit and all flowers are gone, just in case.
The imidacloprid is working - fortnightly application with a weekly application of Yates Pestoil (actually made by caltex apparently) at 30ml per L.
They got 3/4 of a bag of Neutrog Rooster Booster 2 weeks ago. Also did the Potash. Then last friday I did a light application of Cresco NPK (13 2 8).
I keep getting pressured to buy Black Marvel instead - but I reckon that stuff is complete overpriced BS (when I can't get an open bag at a decent price). Its supposedly NPK 12:2:10, with added Iron and Potash. I can do a folliar application of Chelated Iron and add some sulphate of potash to the Rooster Booster and it all still goes fine.
Only needing low maintenance dose of the Imidacloprid - using up a few old confidor sachets. Initially 2 sachets/5L, now 1 sachet in 5l sprayer - works out at 0.25g of pure imidacloprid per spray.
Which means I would get 800 5l fills out of the 1L bottle haha.
Have been using the Mavrik (Taufluvinate) on some Hibiscus which got aphids (worked). Will have to put some lime sulfur on the peach tree as its getting something up with it - can't remember what is wrong with it but the sulfur gets it.
Have been taking the precaution of cutting the unopened buds to prevent the bees getting them since after the first spraying there were a lot of wonky looking bees.
As you say - if we are responsible with it and take a few steps to avoid the bees, then it should be fine.
Picked up a bottle of Hovex Bifenthrin (though it says 500g/l of hydrocarbon liquid). Slightly leaking seal at the top - marked down to $25 from $60.
