Hello everybody, I am wanting to do a service for this gun pictured and have found out it needs hydraulic oil in a small bore in the gun body you pour in via the piston bore that opens up at the bottom. Can anybody tell me the correct grade and where to get a small quantity as it appears to only need a thimble sized amount. Can anybody advise how high to fill it to as there is limited info on the web? One YT vid says to fill up beyond the small hole and up to a mark on the piston bore and another (in Indian) shows it filled only to what looks like about 3mm below the top of the small bore hole as you have the gun inverted. I bought a tube of silicone grease for the rubber edged piston that runs up and down the bore that drives the gun. Do you smear all over the bore wall or just smear a bit on the rubber? Thanks.
Last edited by Mowerfreak; 10/02/2104:56 PM.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Hi maxwestern, thanks for those pointers. The internal piston and bore I have differ slightly in design. There's a hydraulic rod that goes into a hole with a separate hydraulic oil supply to the drops of pneumatic tool oil you regularly feed into the air inlet port of the tool. The instructions that came with the tool are very scant in detail.
I used the riveter after cleaning the bore with brake and parts cleaner on a rag and applying the silicone grease to the piston edge rubber. It seems to operate smoothly at the moment. I would like a very small quantity of hydraulic oil to top it up with though. I still have to work out the weight which the manual doesn't mention.
Last edited by Mowerfreak; 11/02/2102:59 AM.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Usually with other air tools you just put some oil in the air line fitting every once and a while.
This, and a few drops is plenty!
A good oil spec is an 'ISO VG32 Hydraulic Oil', which is exactly what is sold as 'air tool oil' in smaller pack sizes. I just paid ~$10 for a litre pack of 'air tool oil' from my local Mitre 10, as that'll last me for many years.
It's taken me ~ 35 years to use up 200 mL of the stuff, as I've owned an air compressor [McMillan twin cyl model, cast iron pump] for that long.
For air tools that incorporate an 'air motor' to impart rotary motion, inline and wall mounted 'oil mist lubricators' are available, and do a better job when the tool is in heavy use. High speed ones, like die grinders, in particular.
I can put up a pic of an inline lubricator, if anyone hasn't seen one.
Cheers, Gadge
"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."
"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
How many rivets are you likely to use per day, if you were using a box a day then I would say use a bit of oil. I have seen them used in factories all day and they never get oiled. If when they stop working they just get another one
My air ratchet was useless with the same airline fittings as in the second video I posted above ,it was very slow spinning until I changed to bigger fittings and a bigger airline .
High flow connections and hoses can make a big difference with air tools.
My air ratchet ,I turned into a drill by putting a chuck onto a half inch socket ,I was able to drill out broken exhaust manifold studs between the head and the strut tower on my car.
I don't think a rattle gun would be any good with the drill end ,7000 rpm is a little fast and the impact action would probably break drill bits Mf. The air ratchet works good as a drill though ,it's handy getting into tight spots like under car dashes etc.
People ask me sometimes if they can use their rattle gun to start their mower ,the answer is always no.
I don't think a rattle gun would be any good with the drill end ,7000 rpm is a little fast and the impact action would probably break drill bits Mf. The air ratchet works good as a drill though ,it's handy getting into tight spots like under car dashes etc.
Well; it's one of those things that 'can be done, but shouldn't be!' WRT 'good workshop practice', that is...
I have used a rattle gun and 90deg gearbox, to drill a set of mounting bolt holes in an FJ45 Tojo Landcruiser's chassis rails, to fit a later model spare wheel carrier.
It was pretty rough on the drill bit's cutting edges, but that was the only way to 'get 'er done'.
Cheers, Gadge
"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."
"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
This probably why there right angle pneumatic drills.
But anyway people will try anything at once like the girl with the spray on Gorilla glue that she used to glued her hair down with. One of the dumbest thing I ever heard of.
Now the idea of using an impact gun is sorta valid as there is hammer drills which also rough on regular drill bits.
But anyway people will try anything at once like the girl with the spray on Gorilla glue that she used to glued her hair down with. One of the dumbest thing I ever heard of.
I hope she got her head read after they removed all that glue!
Last edited by Mowerfreak; 15/02/2106:23 PM.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
. I have used a rattle gun and 90deg gearbox, to drill a set of mounting bolt holes in an FJ45 Tojo Landcruiser's chassis rails, to fit a later model spare wheel carrier.
It was pretty rough on the drill bit's cutting edges, but that was the only way to 'get 'er done'.
I've broken enough drill bits with electric drills Gadge but if the rattle gun gets it done it saves spending $150 on a decent electric drill.
Impact guns and impact drills are not made for drilling holes .An impact wrench has an electric or air motor that applies a sudden, intense twisting motion to the nut or bolt, usually in short bursts (every few seconds or so). The continuous short, strong bursts of force trying to twist on the fastener are what eventually bring some movement.
What do you use an impact drill for? Impact drivers are designed for efficiently driving long deck screws or carriage bolts into wooden posts, fastening concrete screw anchors into block walls and driving screws into metal studs. It isn't intended for drilling, though it can be useful when using a spade bit.
Hammer drills work in a different way again. Hammer drills have a cam-action or percussion hammering mechanism, in which two sets of toothed gears mechanically interact with each other to hammer while rotating the drill bit. ... For this reason, a hammer drill drills much faster than a regular drill through concrete or brick.
Air ratchets are not impact tools and don't require impact sockets. Air ratchets are useful for loosening/tightening multitudes of low-to-medium torque bolts. You don't want to use an impact wrench here because it can easily over-torque the bolts and cause damage to the threads or snap off the bolt heads or studs.
Originally Posted by Mowerfreak
[quote=AVB]
But anyway people will try anything at once like the girl with the spray on Gorilla glue that she used to glued her hair down with. One of the dumbest thing I ever heard of
Crazy people are in every country these days, but when their American the rest of the world has a saying for these types of people ,"Only in America".
The thing I have fund here is many of the electric are just running at too many rpms for the bits and that users don't how to sharp bits. Every since I got a drill bit sharper and a slower drill I haven't had the drilling problems I did in the past. It doesn't hurt to use quality bit too.
As impact type screw loosener I still use the old manual impact one I got here and a large heavy hammer. Or if sometime just a larger punch and hammer to shock the screws.
First New Yorkers have been violating one those laws for over a yer now. The Arizona law is actually needed as there nuts that would refuse a traveler water.
