Finally got it all back together! The bearing lock collar came off easily enough but the bearings themselves didn't budge. The solution was to cut the cuphead bolts + flange + bearings using a Dremel, lightly sand the shaft and replace with new.
My advice to anyone replacing the brake pads:
DON'T! unless they are really worn. The pad on the arm is easy, but due to the manual being incorrect, the disc pad takes a lot of time and money.
A06235 (bearing flange) is a pressed steel 47MS bearing housing. A suitable replacement can be purchased cheaply from
Collier Miller.
A01396 (flangette bearing) is a NSK EN204DR bearing (new part #AEL204). A suitable replacement is AEL204012NBR from
Collier Miller.
![[Linked Image]](https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/download/Number/15042/filename/IMG_2665.JPG)
The CHD1733 rivets from GA Spares does not have enough gripping strength to hold the pads on the caliper or brake arm. As the original Rover manual says, use 73 AS 5-5 rivets which so far, appear to be a good fit. If using 73 SS 6-5 rivets listed in the 2003 updated manual, they won't fit the countersunk hole in the pad - you will need to widen these.
![[Linked Image]](https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/download/Number/15041/filename/IMG_2654.JPG)
The brake disc also has the key slot on both sides it can in theory move along the shaft over the woodruff key in both directions.
![[Linked Image]](https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/download/Number/15043/filename/IMG_2652.JPG)
The brake disc is a little lollopy, I'll take the setscrew out and tweak it a bit before giving the brakes a final adjustment. Overall, I'm quite happy I could do it myself without separating the rear mudguard assembly and taking it into a shop.
![[Linked Image]](https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/download/Number/15044/filename/IMG_2661.JPG)