After years of searching, I found a 46! The catch - a wheel assembly was missing, which includes the wheel, axle, height adjuster and brass quadrant. The belt guard was Missing ant the snout/belt guard mount snapped off. Only one wheel was in original condition.
I plan to restore it, but I can’t bring myself to paint over the brass parts. Here are a few photos of the condition it was in when I bought it. I stripped it down and made a list of what needed replacing.
After tear down, I found a big crack in the chassis. As it’s made from cast aluminium, I wanted to get a specialist welder to repair it. After receiving a few quotes over $100, I received a tip about a (and I quote) “strange old guys who specialises in aluminium. He works out of a weird little lane way down the back of a house”. I was a bit put off but was assured that “he knows what he’s doing and he was great”. I took the chance and paid him a visit. $15 later, the chassis was repaired. He even ground the top flat so it doesn’t have visible scars, but put a heap of weld on the underside to strengthen it.
We’ve (Reel Solutions - my side business) made new mud flaps out of stainless steel and will be machining four new brass quadrants. It’s not cost effective, but I’m far too obsessive compulsive to have one quadrant that looks different to the others.
Some of the original threaded parts can not be replaced, so I took them to the electroplater and had them zinc plated. I’ve also sourced an original mud flap on loan from a friend and will reproduce that in stainless as well.
As for the wheels, the plan is to machine them out of white acetal. I’ve sourced a wheel with the closest ‘rubber tyre’ I can find to the original. I’m hoping to be able to use them on the new acetal wheels. We’re still brainstorming on the replacement red caps though. Perhaps a 3D printer?
I have ordered a lot of new parts. The quad snout replaces the original tri-snout as I’m going to fit a Honda engine. I also purchased the metal plate to install under the motor to stop debris from coming up.
Belts and bearings were sourced from my local bearing supplier and replacement fixings from the Nut & Bolt Factory
I have a parts list and diagram document that I will scan and upload. I’ve also kept track of fixings and bearing numbers, so will post for members. That’s all the progress for now. Time for sandblasting!
My son in NZ is playing with 3D priniting and some of the things he has made are hard to comprehend and the precision that things can be made to is amazing. Hubcaps would be a walk in the park. That is a big block of acetal rod you would need but is a great idea for the wheels
The parts are back from painting. Still need to finish off the new height adjusters and sort out the wheels, but keen to get it sorted so I can use it for my spring lawn renovation.
I’ve gone Protec Olive Green hammertone for most parts. The Pulleys and drive shaft cover are all Signal Red. I have ordered some heat shrink tube to use as the handlebar grip so still waiting on that also.
Looking back at the last statement in my previous post makes me chuckle. Clearly, assembly did not happen.
I've since changed my mind about a few things. The reel went away and was yellow zinc plated. Mainly for cosmetic appeal...
The quadrants have been made along with stainless height adjusters. I'm in the process of trying to make replica wheels. This will blow the cost out, but would be a nice touch and really is the only thing that would have been a compromise if I did just replace them. Will see what I'm able to come up with. Thank you for the messages, etc and my apologies for not checking in as regularly as I would like to.
Thanks TC. You noticed the difference with the Wiehle roller?
After nearly a full season I can say the Wiehle roller was a good investment. Cuts so much more on the first pass which makes the second pass burn in the stripes better..
