G'day Widget,
In the worst case scenario, by using a bearing puller to remove the bearing from the shaft. But usually, the 'two screwdriver' method will work.
See p8 of this workshop manual excerpt;
https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/pages/V...icta%20Workshop%20%20Engine%20Manual.pdfill look into getting some Wool Fat or Lanox. With regards to mower repairs, are those lubricants only really used to help with tight fitting pieces, like the bearings? Or are there other applications you would use them too ?
I like the Lanox spray for lubing ball wheel bearings on mowers. Easy to spray in via the bearing shield gap, and it then thickens up, so it won't run out. Also excellent for temporary corrosion protection of steel surfaces, e.g. tools.
The bearings are good, no need to come off. I was looking to take that one off to press-fit it first then slide the crank through.. seems it would be easier that way,, but those spaces are in the way and can't take it off. Not sure how to take the spacers out wither.. seemed rather tight so I didn't try hard (didnt want to break anything)
A very commendable approach. Nothing worse, in my book anyway, than to have to attempt to repair an item butchered by some critter from the 'if it don't fit, force it - or use a bigger hammer' school.
I'm not too sure what the freezer is for though, lol... something to do with getting the bearing on??
Yup. A common mech fitter's technique for assembly of tightly-fitted metal parts is to cool down the inner part, and heat up the outer one.
