Hi again Steve, and thank you for posting the pics.
From the pics I have made the following observations:
1. Your machine is a 20" Rover 45 most likely manufactured in early 1982
2. I agree with grumpy that the cutter sprocket and engine shaft sprocket need replacing as well as the primary chain.
3. The nut on the engine shaft sprocket is missing.
4. The primary plastic clutch pad is missing and must be replaced or damage will result.
5. The cylinder reel has not been sharpened in a while and has plenty of life left in it.
It will require sharpening as well as the bed-knife blade.
6. It is missing the catcher support rubber on the left hand side (looking from the front).
7. The front rail is seriously cracked and must be replaced before the engine is run. This will be causing the clutch to run out of alignment and could coause serious damage to the clutch components.
Steve, the engine problems can be addressed when the frame probs have been fixed.
Here is the plan of attack that I would use if it were my machine...
Unfortunately, the crack in the front rail will require it to be removed from the machine, a new rail fabricated and welded in plus the clutch support panel welded in place. To do this and maintain chassis alignment....this work will have to be completed by a tradesman welder that has the expertise and equipment to stop the frame from twisting or warping, thus throwing out the alignment. To do this, the chassis needs to be stripped.
1. Remove the 3 bolts that secure the cutter clutch...remove the throttle assembly from the upper handle-bar then the 4 bolts that secure the engine to the chassis and remove the engine and set aside.
2. Remove the cutter clutch, clutch cone, spring, thrust bearing and Woodruf key.
3. Remove the engine shaft sprocket, bearing housing, bearing and engine shaft and Woodruf key.
4. Using the video (a sticky post in this forum) as a guide ...remove the reel leaving the soleplate complete with the bed-knife. This will help maintain frame integrity.
5. Remove the drive clutch cable, roller clutch and rear rollers.
Leave the front roller and assembly in place for frame integrity.
This seems a lot of work...but not necessarily a bad thing....this will allow you thoroughly inspect the clutch linings of both the cutter clutch and rear roller and replace if necessary.
It will also allow you to inspect the pawls in the rear rollers for wear...as well as the bearings for serviceability. The cylinder reel bearings should be replaced in any case. This will assist in reel to bedknife clearance after sharpening.
Purchase any spare parts you need.
After the rail is replaced, remove the soleplate complete with the bedknife attached and then sand blast the cylinder reel and then prime and paint in the preferred colour...(I had mine powder-coated 'Signal Red').
Now send both the reel and soleplate complete to the engineer for spin-grinding.
While the chassis is bare, it would now be a good time to clean it thoroughly and repaint in your preferred colour scheme, plus clutch parts and engine shaft. Mask off where necessary.
Replace all parts including the engine and grumpy will guide you from there to get it running sweetly. Use the video to replace and adjust the reel clearance.
You now have a fully restored machine that will give you hours of mowing pleasure.
