OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Walk Behind Lawn Mower Frames Victa Lawn Mower Frames Victa VC30 - BS3201E - Carburettor - Leaking

Hello all,
I have the 2 stroke model mentioned above and it is leaking fuel from the edges of the white capped carb. (like an open tap). The carbie has a brass screw in the middle, white plastic cap and black body.

Do I need to replace the whole carbie? There seems to be a lot of talk about needle? Didn't see one when I opened it ?

Anyone know where I can get a replacement, NSW 2770 ? Or should I replace the O-ring and needle ?

Also there are two wires (black and grey) at the side of the carbie, I assume this is to kill the running engine, by grounding the grey wire.... They're only supposed to touch when the mower is stopped, correct ?


Mower won't start at all now, Carbie and perhaps the two wires..

Help....!

Thanks in advance...

Cartman123,

Just try replacing the 'O' ring and needle first. We have the directions in the parts list and manuals area to show you how to do all this.

As to the wires they should be in the carby and yes when they touch each other they stop the motor by shorting the electrics

Thanks, will hunt the local repair shops to see if they have any spare parts, fingers crossed...

Ok, replaced the Primer Cap, O-ring seal and the needle. Tried the needle both ways, i.e. sharp end in first, then round end in. Left it (new yellow needle) with the round end in the small brass seat, inside the cap.

No Leaks.. woohoo! Primer Cap is horizontal , as stated on the cap. And the external Brass screw is also horizontal with the primer cap... (not sure about this ???)

Mower won't start now.... bugger! , but no leaks...

Should the external brass screw also be horizontal , with the primer cap ?

Not sure if fuel is getting in to the engine, fuel certainly is in the carbie, cos when I press the primer pump, fuel squirts out.

Also tried another test... took out the spark plug cleaned it up
and left it out of the engine still plugged to the lead, Fuel turned off at the tank... Tried pulling the starter rope to see if any sparks occur. Zilch! Nothing...

Should the spark plug still fire with it out of the engine, FUEL OFF, plugged to it's lead, when the starter rope is pulled ? Cos nothing's happening at the moment...

So, not sure if it's the electrics or the fuel not getting into the engine....

Anyone... help..!

Thanks....

Hi Cartman123,

First of all it is irrelevant the position of the brass screw (main jet), as long as it is screwed in but not too tight, remembering it is screwing into thin wall plastic.

When you check spark, the spark plug must be earthed onto the engine or cylinder head. Be careful that fuel escaping from the engine does not ignite! If there is still no spark, try a good known plug and check again.

Also, did the float have enough movement to allow fuel to enter fuel chamber in carburettor? Sometimes with a new needle the float does not have enough movement to allow fuel to enter. Also, pointy end in first to the seat with the needle

Hope this helps

Ok Cartman123 if you don't have spark with the throttle in the run position then you will be pulling without results.

To test for spark what you need to do is connect the spark plug to the high tension lead then hold the plug against the metal part of the engine and pull the starter rope.

As to the screw on the primer cap it has nothing to do with your problem.

One other thing is to make sure that the petrol/fuel that you have is no older than 8 weeks from time of purchase.

Have you checked out the parts list and manuals area as it has the workshop manual for repair?

Thanks, will try that out tommorow afternoon and see how it goes. Forgot totally about grounding the spark plug metal surrounds... duh!

Also will swap the needle around, and try fresh fuel... fingers crossed....:)

Didn't work... Mower does not start... but no leaks

Tried the following:

A) Fresh Fuel
B) New Spark Plug
C) New Needle configuration both ways, i.e. and sharp and round end in the brass seat.

There is Spark, cos I tested this new plug connected on the lead out of the machine, with the plug grounded. So that rules the electrical out.

Not sure what it could be, the only thing I have not replaced is the float (using the old one).

What could it be... Is the fuel not getting into the firing chamber... ? Any ideas... ?

i would get some carby cleaner spray it through every hole you can find,
then blow it out with compressed air if you dont have a compresser buy a cheap one (about $100 from super cheap) or just go to the local servo with a football needle plug it into the tyre pump and blow like mad make sure everything is clean then it should work good luck

p.s. if you buy a compresser there is a huge range of tools that come in very handy.....

Try pulling the rope a few times with the sparkplug in, then take it out and see if its wet(got fuel on it) if it has then it maybe flooding, if it hasn't spray a little carb cleaner in the spark plug hole, put the plug in and try starting it. If it fires then stops then its got a fuel problem.

Well.... After mucking about with the needle, float, hoses... She starts and runs! and no leaks..... But only for 30 secs or so before dying...

So fuel / Air is coming in, and the spark's fine.... not sure what's going on now...? If I slow it down on the throttle, say half way, it takes another 10 or 15 secs longer before dying again...

Some joy...but still frustrating... help.....

hi cartman,

pull the black cap of the other side of the carby and check the diaphram and springs,

also check the decompressor hose and the vacumn hose.

good luck

1. Ok how is the fuel flow from the tank to the carby?

2. Have you checked the 'O' ring on the intake sleeve (the piece that the carby locks onto).

3. Did you check the screw (main jet) for the carby to see if it is clean?

4. Before the machine stops does it rev high?

Answer these so that we can give you the correct answers.

Didn't mention this, but I did this yesterday... the plastic flap inside the diaphram looked alright and so did the springs... so I cleaned it up and put it back together again.

Also I was not sure what I would be looking for in the diaphram, if it indeed was broken.... However it looked alright, in terms of movement and functionality... Same with the hose connecting the diaphram to the nozzle on the chassis..? it wasn't blocked

Thanks....

1. Yeah, I am suspecting this. Is it supposed to be a trickle, a little more then a trickle, or a gush with the tap is fully open... ?

2.The Metal O ring is there, bit warped over time, but still there.. where the intake sleeve connects to the motor. What should I be looking for it is not working as it's supposed to..?

3.Yes, the main screw is clean, triple checked this.

4. Yes, the machine does rev high before stopping, like it's run out of fuel. Moving the throttle lever to half way, does increase the "time of death" by 10 secs, which is why I suspect item 1 above.

Also in the carby I haven't replaced is the float (original), not sure if that would make a diff ?

Cartman123,

Ok replace the fuel tap (cost about $7) and check the small hole in the tank cap. All should work ok then.

Not talking about the metal one talking about the rubber 'O' ring on the plastic spout.

Do this stuff first but you can check the float by putting it in some fuel and if it floats then it should be ok.

Woohoo! She starts, runs and does not leak...!
Many thanks to all those who helped on this forum... much appreciated...

What it was in the end was that new needle was too long (yellow colour), therefore stopping the float from rising as much as it should (needs) to allow a consistent flow.

Changed the needle to a shorter, black one and hey presto! magic....!

Now to change the rusty, grass logged blades.... not looking forward to replacing those and looks like will require the strength of 10 bears to remove...

Thanks again all....

Thought so . . (see earlier post) so many people are not aware of this but it is so common with the yellow needles that not enough float movement stops fuel flow into fuel chamber

To those on here constantly, you can actually move the brass seat in the primer cap to adjust the float level. Always check the float level when changing primer cap or needle, especially yellow needles

Another way is to file a little bit off the float end og the needle if the seat wont move