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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 298
Apprentice level 3
****
Hi all I have quite a few old Special engine which have been lying out in the weather for some years maybe..Depending on the position of the piston in the cylinder when dumped it is a problem pulling the cylinder off . . I have thought of a way to do this but was wondering if anyone has an idea they would pas on. If it is better idea than mine I will try it.. .
I do not want to disclose my idea as yet because it may not work but if no one comes up with an idea then I will try my way and pass it on Cheers Joe


Joe
Membership information
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,334
Likes: 30
Repair Junkie
****
Joe is this a competition?

Do want to put up a poll where the forum members can choose an answer. That way we could see how smart people of the forum are. hehe

I can set it up if you like. cheers2


Regards,
[Linked Image]

Bruce


Please do not PM me asking for support. Post on the forums as it helps all members not just the individual.
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 21
Novice
hi joe , regarding the rusted piston prob. ive found that thereino easy way... however you may like to try amethod i have successfully used onlarger motors, that is position the motor so as the cylinder is in the vertical pos.ie.barrel facing up . pour in some kerosene , or if you are not financialy challenged wd40 now get apiece of soft wood small enough to fit into bore & give it a few GOOD whacks with a large hammer, the shock seems to do the trick. however if the piston is in the bottom dead centre (bdc)or the top dead centre (tdc) this metod will not produce results,
good hammerin john


i may have retired but i havent stopped yet, ive got one shed full of woodworking machines & hand tools(my other love, makin sawdust)my othr shed is mechanics tool chests stick &mig welders metal lathe 9 inch swing screw cutting so if icant buy it i make it,i hope im writing this in the right place,thats all i can think of at the moment, cheers & beers
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 63
Likes: 1
Trainee
***
Why want you disclose your idea ???

Tell us , as it may help us improve on it, if it needs..

I'm no expert but if you were to heat up the block and let it cool down a couple of times, then when cold hit it with a hammer via a timber block..... should do the trick.


Cheers Bill..........
Project soon to start...........
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 298
Apprentice level 3
****
Hi to all Well I dont want to disclose my idea till I have tried it. Actually I have 2 ideas . .I will say at this stage that the items in qusestion have had the pistons belted with a rounded block of hardwood put down the bore and they dont move. Have been well squirted with WD 40 type stuff . . I have since thought up another idea so that make s3 now. I will keep you guessing so maybe some of you will give it some more thought/ . The you post it here so I can pinch your idea LOL More later on tis Cheers Joe


Joe
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362
Likes: 10
Administrator - Master Technician
****
Hi Joe, I've was looking around on the web and found this site by accident.....It could solve ya problem easily, the website is: www.enginerelease.com Here is a quote from preamble:
"Engine Release is our new releasing agent, the only one of it's kind, specially formulated to dissolve corrosion, lubricate cylinder walls and free up seized pistons whether two stroke, four stroke, gas or diesel. If you can remove a spark plug or injector, it's a simple way to get your seized engine running without special tools or major engine work and will save you money and a trip to the shop too!

Don�t Give Up On Your Seized Engine

Poor storage conditions account for more engines being lost (�SEIZED�) than any other factor. Air-borne humidity and rain water are the main culprits!

Corrosion between cylinder walls, piston and piston rings start immediately once water/water vapor enters the engine. Corrosion (rust) forms immediately, causing your engine to seize. The smallest amount of oxide (rust) deposit between piston ring and cylinder wall, even in just one cylinder, can easily lock up a 400HP engine, never mind what it can do to your Buick classic, John Deere, or Inboard.

How it works

Engine Release fills the gap between the piston and cylinder wall, migrates behind and around each piston ring dissolving corrosion then makes its' way from the top piston ring and groove to the lowest, through each ring gap. Excess Engine Release lubricates the piston skirt and cylinder bore making engine starting easy."
Hoping this might help, Regards, Darryl wink



Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member.
Kindest Regards, Darryl grin


Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 63
Likes: 1
Trainee
***
Hey Joe, is the piston in the top 1/3 of the bore ????

Why not use the block horizantally on a vice, compressing the timber block into the bore.....


Cheers Bill..........
Project soon to start...........
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 298
Apprentice level 3
****
Deejay 66 and Billy Boy Billboy theblock is still on the crankcase so cannot do as you say....Would have to buy a bigger vice as well . ........ Deejay I got the website up and had alookat the product and some of the testimonials . .
It says on the site they only ship to North America, . It cost around $26.00 USD plus shipping. I had alook at the Warnings and see it contains some real nasty stuff which may stop it from being posted . I asked if they have any outlets here in Oz and will keep you posted on the answers. Thanks Dee jay for thae information as to the site Joe


Joe
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 298
Apprentice level 3
****
Hi all What I intend to do is to get a piece of flat steel plate and drill 4 holes to bolt onto the cylinder in place of the head. The steel plate was to have a 12 mm hole drilled in the centre and a nut with fine thread welded on .The get a bolt and screw down onto the piston and see if it will push out . But after some more though and to save a bit of work I am looking for one of those cyl heads off later model with the central spark plug hole . Then all I will need is along enough bolt with the same thread as the 14mm spark plug and I will be in buisness without any drilling or welding .
I had 2 other ideas but will not bother you with all the gory details and just see if the cylinder head idea works .
Any one know the pitch description for the 14 Mm plug???/// Cheers Joe


Joe
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 76
Trainee
Good grief Joe Brown. What a carry on.Without all that procrastinating you could`ve saved all that time and gotten hold of a new or good second hand one.Oh btw, i do know know the "pitch description for the 14mm plug" but i don`t want to disclose it to you because it may not work for you.cheers

Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 18
Novice
Hi Joe,

To save you trying to find a bolt of the right thread, just re-tap the head to a common thread.

Regards

Paul

J
Joe Carroll
Unregistered
This might sound a bit rough and I have not tried it on a small engine but here goes.

On my 253 holden v8 I had a crack in the head that leaked water into no.7 and made it bubble up and lock solid, it had sat there for a few years.

I pulled the heads off, put a liberal amount of inox into the cylinder and rocked the main crank bolt side to side with my breaker bar. eventually I got the piston to the bottom of the bore then I sanded the rust down and the thing not only turned smoothly but had good compression.

As rough as that remedy was the engine is still a great performer today and I didnt even pull the bottom end apart.


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