OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Walk Behind Lawn Mower Frames Question On Scott Bonnar Cylinder Mowers Rover Model 45 Reel Mower Engine Does Not Start

Hi,

Just wandering if you can help. Last time I was using my mower, it run out of petrol and luckily I was already finished doing the lawn. So basically it fuel tank was empty when I kept it.
And now that I am about to use it, I filled it up and for some reason, it won't start. Is there a possibility that something was damaged when it was stored with an empty fuel tank.
I'm tempted on finding out if there's some blockage somewhere but not sure how to start. Would appreciate if you can provide some tips on how this is done or forums that may have touched this topic.

Thanks for your help

Hi Shannon, first thing is check for spark, I doubt a fuel blockage would be a cause seeing it was running, could be coincidence that it stopped and you thought it was out of fuel

hi Shannon being a rover 45 it should have a briggs Stratton engine
some times the diaphragm in the carb gets old and tired and if you ran it dry of fuel it can have trouble drawing fuel up from the tank up into the carb and motor just by pulling on the cord.
you could try filling the tank to the brim and give that a go, making sure throttle and carb are on full choke for cold start.
and as norm said check for spark.
good luck damo

Thanks for your reply guys. How do I actually check for spark ? Do I remove the spark plug and pull the cord ?

Yes Shannon, pull the plug,put the lead back on the plug, hold the metal part of the plug against the fins on the motor and then pull the cord and you see the spark jump across the tip of the plug

This, or, I like to just pull the plug, put it back in the lead, and then just leave it hanging. Then either get someone else to check for spark, or you can. I find that turning the light off really helps see it. Tried pouring some fuel or start ya bastard down the carb yet? I dont fully recomend you do this, but If you do so, please be careful, read the instructions on the can and dont over fill it because I've heard of fires starting from people doing so. Ive heard that you can also put some fuel through the plug hole into the cylinder and then try to see if it fires.

I actually replaced the plug as it's quite old and was able to get it started. But then whilst I was using it perhaps after emptying the catcher 2 or 3 times, it stopped and now I'm having problem starting it again.
I'll try putting some fuel on the plug hole and see how it goes. I'm not sure where to put fuel on the carb. Is this where the air cleaner is mounted and thru the hole where the choke valve is ?
Thanks for the help.

Hey guys, just letting you know that adding fuel on the plug hole did work to get the mower started again. I have used it again after that and it has worked without adding fuel again.
Thanks guys for your help.
Much appreciated.

Hi Shannon,

Normally if a fuel system is run dry and left it will create issues with the diaphragm drying out and becoming hard. I've just gone through this issue this morning with an Atom Lawn edger. I replaced the diaphragm and it's up up and away.

In your case just having fuel in the whole system for a while will soften things up again. Always take the air cleaner off and carefully pour a few ml's down the intake with the choke in the closed position and then keep your head well clear of the open carby while attempting to start the machine. By doing this it will fire up providing there's spark and draw fuel up the pick up due to the vacuum effect and hopefully keep it running.

It's never good practice to run and leave any internal combustion engine's fuel system dry as it causes nothing but dramas for start up the next time.

Cheers,
BB

Hi Guys,

Winter is over and time to start the mower but then the problem of not starting is back. I tried putting a few ml's where the spark plug is. It only run shortly and then stop. I tried a few time but same thing happen.

I haven't tried putting fuel where the air cleaner is but will give this a try as well.

It may be time to replace the diaphragm but i'm not sure where it is. Are you able to walk me thru to find this or even better if you have a picture you can share showing the diapragm.

Thanks

I tried putting a few ml's again where the spark plug is and i managed to get it going. I still wanted to find out where the diaphragm is so i can check and replace this to permanently fix this problem.

Hi Shannon,
From reading through your previous posts, it seems like it should be a Briggs and Stratton engine you have on your mower.
These engines have a Model Type and Code number stamped on the cowling and it will look like this one in my photo below...



The model and Type numbers are important to find your specific engine on the Briggs and Stratton website.
The diaphragm mentioned in earlier posts is found inside the carburetor assembly and, with the Engine Model and Type information, we can help you better identify your actual engine.
If adding petrol to the engine through the plug hole or carburetor helps it start, then it appears to be fuel related, which may also be primer related. That being, the primer is not working effectively.
Can you provide a photo, or detail the Model and Type numbers of the engine?
Thank you.
Daryl

There is also the probability this motor was not fitted with a primer, until we see a pic we won't know

Below are the details:
Model : 91202
Type : 1371 E1
Code : 0008023A

I will send the photo later when i have taken one.

Thanks for your help

Thank you Shannon,
According to your engine details, here's the Parts Manual for your 091200 series motor:-
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/18jsBLXBnfBhU7y.pdf
Page 5 shows the Carburetor and, if this is correct, then the diaphragm you need is numbered 394 (used after date code 920630 00), being part number 272538S. The other is 394A (used before date code 92070100).
Just to give you an idea on the Date Codes with Briggs and Stratton engines, they are in YYMMDD order and the last 2-digists is the Factory where they are made.
That said, your Date Code 00 08 02 3A should be read as Year 2000, Month August Day 02 and Factory 3A.....
Hope this helps.

Thanks a lot for the info Bushy260. I have taken some photo if still required.



Based on the manual you have referred to me, i took a photo below of where i think the diaphragm is. If this is the one, how can you tell if the diaphragm does really need replacement ? Is there anything i need to look out for when i open this e.g. spring bouncing out once you've removed the screws ?

Hi Shannon,

With the issues you have described I would replace the diaphram regardless. When you open up that cover there should be no surprises. It's pretty straight forward.

The diaphram won't be cheap considering what will be given to you as the replacement part.

Cheers,
BB.

G'day Shannon,
As the parts list shows, there is a spring and cup washer behind the diaphragm. It won't come flying out when you pull the cover off though. You will also need a Torx driver bit for those screws.

Hi Gadge and Shannon,

I did see the more unusual screws, but didn't mention about the torx bit screwdriver requirement.

But then doesn't everyone have one of those $9.95 bit sets nowadays ??? probably not.


Cheers,
BB.

Oh yeah. I did not notice that the screws has like a star shape bit to undo it. Thanks guys for pointing this out. I have to find out now if i can get a replacement diaphragm.