OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions On Ride On Mowers Questions on Greenfield Ride On Mower Frames Greenfield: what's better Anv8/12 or Evo?

Hey I'm new to the forum.
I am looking for a second hand mower to cut a 1 acher block for about 12-18 months and greenfield seem to be be cheaper... so what is the best for a almost flat block with short grass. I was looking at the Aniversery 8 (I think..) a Mk2 or a Evolution (again I think). as the ads are on gumtree and not very discriptive.

I just want to know if I can get parts, how hard are they to work on and reliability.

I will end up either turning it in to a race mower or fully restore...depends on how I fell in 18 months time....

Cheers Peter.

G'day & welcome, almost all parts are very available new or old.
very strong machines & easy to work on.. my 2c
At the moment I'm using a 75 Greenfield mini tractor 8hp

If you look through our archives, you'll find lots of case histories of repairs and some restorations of Greenfields. For the job you've described, they seem very suitable, though I would not recommend them for use with a dozer blade or for continuous operation at very low ground speeds, due to the slipping-clutch variable speed transmission they use. They last very well, and are usually quite repairable by a home mechanic even if you eventually wear something out.

Good Morning Peter,

Never mind cheaper, they're just better! The best!
Almost infinitely repairable, tough as nails. My daily drive is an early eighties Tractor 8 that my father bought new. I've been trying to destroy it since I was 11 years old. Can't be done!
Only annoying thing is the semi regular belt replacements but even that is not hard. Everything else is so 'simple simon'. The way I look at it they were fabricated, not manufactured.

I have not tried to understand the model history post the eighties so can't help specifically. I do make the observation that after the eighties they became increasingly more complicated in annoying ways and increasingly difficult to work on. I'd be interested to hear from other members on that score.

To that end a well kept, probably recently re-engined tractor 8 or 11 would be my choice.....and probably cheaper.

My only other suggestion would be to avoid the ones with a differential. I've had nothing to do with them, they just go against the KISS design principal- which I hold to be absolute.

You mentioned race mowers. Perhaps somebody can tell me, do those guys keep the 'greenfield drive' when they modify them?

The newer fastcuts are the best, but probably the dearest, some of the older ones, like east / west mounted engines are the least desireable , for a number of reasons, the diffs are fairly straight forward and give you a better turning circle, and the best bit of advise would be to get the best condition one you can.....over model choice, they are easy to work on ,and most parts are still avaiable, they can be expensive and a machine that's been flogged will cost a truck load to put right.
Keep in mind , most tractor models that you will see for sale will at best need work and most likely be flogged out.

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/sunnybank/lawn-mowers/greenfield-ride-on/1081779067
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/wivenhoe-pocket/lawn-mowers/rideon-mower-greenfield/1084836660
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/harlaxton/lawn-mowers/greenfield-mower/1080729181

these are the options, I'm ok with mechanical work. just want something with parts back up and quick and easy to start off with that will mow my block.

also if any one can Identify them aswell, that would get me in the right direction.
also if any of these are a "lemon"model
Cheers again Peter

Good Morning again Peter,

It's impossible to judge the machines from the photo.

The third one (the one the dog has chewed)is my sentimental favorite of course! But that's no basis for purchase.

Squizzy is right, condition is the decider. Play in the steering linkage, play and wear in the blade height mechanism and in the cutter deck mounting, excessive play in the drive pedal indicating play in the linkage and clutch wear are all good indicators of how hard a life the thing has had and all easily checked. Also the condition of the alloy cutter housing which gets well knocked about if people try to mow rocks.

All three machines are all going to need some kind of lovin' but it sounds like your good for that.

The first is up for a new clutch, he says. No biggy in itself but it indicates the thing hs done some work. I have been mowing acreage with mine for over 30 years and it almost due for its first clutch.,....or the diagnosis is wrong.

The third looks in good condition for it's age and I'd still look at it. He says 12hp. They did 8, 10 & 11hp only I think in those. So maybe re-engined but it looks pretty original on the face of it.

I'd be looking at all three and then make a decision.

Short answer to your question. No, I'm not aware of a 'lemon' model.

Hope this helps

yep, prd is right pete, have a look at all 3 and decide then, they are all older models and seem ok for there price. i myself would spend a bit more for a latter model, but the budget maybe the decider for you. dont by the one that needs the clutch doing unless you are sure you can do it yourself or are prepared to pay around $200 to have it done, it's not something you want to have to do again. btw, the "old" one for $300 ( in the first lot of ads) , is a real gem, being the first model and pretty thin on the ground these days!!

So after a mate gave a recomendation I bought this http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/redb...ield-tractor-mower-new-engine/1086079808

It has a new engine and every thing mechanical is pretty rock solid*.
body needs some love but the chassis is pretty much dirty with small paint chips.

* I have found a few little problems (steering wheel is loose on the main shaft and the new engine exhuast is just alittle to big for the front cowl)
I have worked out the exhaust....making a straight pipe with a go kart muffler at the end, the sterring shaft is where I am a little stuck..so if nay one has any advice, I'm all ears


Cheers Peter

looks good Pete, it should run long and strong for you, the wheel is cast and very easy to break, and will be on a taper with nut on top, if the wheel will come off easy , check both the shaft and hub of wheel for wear, if it doesnt come off then they will be 'welded' together and there wont be much you can do...however....the wear could be at the other end??

To get the steering wheel off you need to tap the shaft while lifting the steering wheel... I put a nut screwed most of the way down but not that the thread will get damaged when I hit the shaft (nut)..
they have a variety of different methods to tighten it up, some adjust the horizontal shaft with collars that ya move or 2 locking nut on one side that move it left & right, similar on some models for the vertical shaft to have collars you can move..