OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Reel-Type Mowers Scott Bonnar Model 45 - Restoration - Hooksey

No Hooksey, you're incorrect their mate, the Briggs was painted silver and decals applied. This only occurred on the 14" .....the 17" and 20" machines had the Kirby (Lauson) Tecumseh's and the Briggs engines finished in Red or later, in International Orange colours.

Hi DeeJay - thanks very much for clarifying that . As it looks like 'engine colour' on the photo i assumed that it was not painted (i guess that just goes to show how little i know re engines etc).

More food for thought. do i paint my briggs silver ...?

Thanks again.!

No probs mate...it is a good time to think about your colour scheme....once it's painted....its too late.
I am sure it will come up a treat!

just wondering if id need any specialty tools for a resto?

what steps do you usually take when doing a resto? i guess the first step would be to pull everything apart?

thanks

Hi Hooksey,

I think that the most elaborate tool you'll need is a 3 leg puller for removing the various sprockets off and also maybe the clutch body off the engine shaft. These can be bought at cheap Chinese tool outlets. Most other items can be done using standard spanners, pliers and general workshop tools.

Cheers,
BB

so - my restoration project has begun after having watched the videos on this site a bunch of times.

I had no trouble removing the handle frames but i was wondering what i should use when cleaning it as it has a bit of rust (its not excessive). Any input re restoring the handle frame much appreciated.

Engine removal - I had no trouble removing the engine except that one half of the clutch is still attached to the engine. I was not too sure how hard i could tap the bolt / screw. see photo below.





Also, I had trouble removing the cutter sprocket nut. I have soaked it in WD40 but Id appreciate any input / ideas as how to remove it.

Lastly - I have taken a couple of photos of all sprockets and Id appreciate your input re the wear of these.

Hi Hooksey,

The captive cotter pin is not removable, all you have to do is undo the nut and give it a bit of a tap with a brass hammer to shift it across a few millimetres. From there I would soak the output shaft in WD-40 or similar for a few hours and then use a 3 jaw puller to remove it making sure that the screw on the puller does not foul on the thrust bearing, if it does use a small dummy shaft that will slip inside the thrust bearing and push against the output shaft, it will come off relatively easily with the correct puller. The same puller should be used on all the sprockets. If you don't have one I would seriously go out and invest in one as you'll use it time and time again. BTW do not hit the clutch half with a hammer at any cost as if its a cast iron one it will shatter and an Alloy one will deform.

As far as the condition of the sprockets is concerned it's very hard to tell with your small photos.

If you could put up larger files then I could assess them more accurately.


Cheers,
BB.

Along with grumpy, I'm not a fan of WD-40. It's OK for surface dewatering, but a poor penetrant, and an even worse lubricant.

I'd suggest any of CRC 5-56, Inox, or grumpy's favourite, Penetrene, as far superior products for this job. Or Castrol DWF, if you can find it.

If you want a DIY mix, 1:1 [by volume] of Acetone and Dexron II or III spec Automatic Transmission Fluid is very good indeed. Don't try to keep it in a plastic container, though.

Hi Gadge,

I too am not a fan of WD-40 and have never owner a can of it, but most people have it on hand so that's why I suggested it.

I personally use Penetrene exclusively but that's what my Father used and I've just kept on with the same product with good results, in reality it's not that cheap though, but I've had heaps for years and I see no need to change.

Just my opinion.

Cheers,
BB

Thanks for the input. I shall try and get hold of some Penetrene.

Here is another photo of the main sprocket.

All of the sprockets are rather badly worn. I don't see a picture of the one on the engine/clutch shaft. The pair of sprockets on the reel axle are a total loss. The drum drive sprocket is the least worn, but it is worn out.

Thanks for your input grumpy. I will order some new ones in the store.!

Cheers

As Jim Carey said in that famous Movie he did,

I've had better !

Again I concur with Grumpy and that was exactly what I was thinking when I asked for larger shots to confirm my suspicions.

Sadly sprockets are big money if you have to buy them new and to find them second hand is so hard as you have to basically buy another machine which would probably go again with not that much work, it's a catch 22 I guess.

Cheers,
BB

I remember that movie.....

[video][/video]

Hi Hooksey,

You crack me up, a guy with a sense of humour !

I guess "That's because you've got big Jugs, Mama !!!!!!"

Cheers,
BB

yeah - its a great movie..!

now back to my resto project - can someone pls confirm the if the sprockets for sale in the onlince shops (as listed on the SB45 parts page) would suit my 14inch? the shop states that the sprokets for sale are for the 17 inch but i have counted the teeth on the my 14 inch sprockets and it appears the number of teeth on match the number of teeth on the 17 inch sprockets.

Much appreciate your guidance and assistance!

Cheers

Hi Hooksey,


Back on task !

Yes they are the same for both 14 and 17 inch machines, only the Electric 14 is different, but that doesn't apply to you, so buy away.

Cheers,
BB

so - we've been busy and I've not had a lot of time in the shed over the past week or so. However, there has been a little progress.

I managed to pull more or less everything apart - see photos below.







A couple of questions:
1 - I'm still struggling to get the clutch body of the engine shaft. I followed the instructions in the video and Ihave gently tapped (and prob a little more than gently) the screw that holds the clutch to the engine. Any hints / tips?

2 - i managed to pull everything apart and Im now left with one sprocket which i can't seem to get off. Any ideas?

3 - which parts do you normally send off for sand blasting. I guess you'd send the grass box, the frame, the chain case etc (other frame type parts). However, i wanted to hear if you'd normally completely strip the frame or if you'd normally leave e.g. the cutter bearing houses? How much should i expect a sandblast to cost? Any recommended sandblaster here in Perth? Any recommended place to get her primed and painted?

4 - id like it if someone could please comment on my bottom blade and sole plate. They appear VERY rusty but I'm not sure if there is any life left on them.

5 - also - it look like there may have been a crack in the frame and that this may have been fixed / reinforced. There are NO visible cracks on the top of the frame but as you can see there is the reinforcement on the bottom. Is that a worry?

6 - whats the trick to getting the hand nut off?

(I'll prob think of a few more questions over night).

Thanks very much for your guidance and help

Hi Hooksey, you have made some progress whilst I have been away! Good work mate.

Before we go any further, for archival purposes I would like to re-name this thread and also (as it is a ground up restoration) shift the posts to the correct topic " Restoring, Customising and Modifying"...Reel Type Mowers.
This will help new members find this thread easily when attempting a resto of their own.

Hi Hooksey, Now we have your thread in the right place, I'll try and answer some of your questions....

(1) Firstly, it is good to know how the "captive cotter pin" system actually works, in order to release it and remove the inner clutch half. Here is an illustration:

As you can see, you just undo the nut and gently tap the pin down until it releases from the shaft....Just get some Penetrene down the pin area... and down the shaft from the centre of thrust bearing...replace the nut and re-tighten to pull it back up until it re-engages the shaft again...and the then tap it back down gently...then.... with a 3 leg puller gently try to remove the clutch half.

(2) Firstly remove the self aligning bearing housing from the machine...remove the nut from the engine shaft....try and get some Penetrene down the keyway...leave it for a while to soak in....then use the 3 leg puller to remove the 12 tooth motor sprocket and then remove the engine shaft.

(3) Your quite correct there Hooksey, you send the grass box, mower chassis ( completely stripped of all parts), the chain case, and handle bar centre cover to the sandblasters.
I cannot answer your other questions as I live in NSW, you need to look in your 'Yellow Pages' and let your fingers do the walking.

(4) Please do NOT attempt to remove the bedknife (bottom blade) from the soleplate...Just get the whole thing(as it is) sandblasted with your other components and take it complete, with the cylinder reel, to the engineer who will do the sharpening for you...He will remove the bedknife for you (he has the expertise) and can supply a new bedknife and screws for you, if deemed necessary.

(5) This is a hard one to answer, without seeing the repair in person...If it has been done professionally, It will be fine...However, if (as Grumpy says) it is a 'previous tenants improvement'....it may need attention.

(6) The trick is...plenty of Penetrene down the centre hole....let it soak in well....and screw it off anti-clockwise.
Please let us know how you get on....Best of luck with it..