OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions On Ride On Mowers Questions on Greenfield Ride On Mower Frames Greenfield E2000 - Front Wheel Bearing

Any tips on changing front wheel bearing of greenfield E2000?

Thank you.

steffan, if it is the same as the one in the owner manual I quoted previously, the parts look like this:


The two Items 32 are the wheel bearings. Item 33 is the front hub. 34 is the collar that holds the wheel bearings on the stub axle. 35 is the grub screw that holds the collar on the stub axle. So, you loosen the grub screw with an Allen key, then slide off the collar. If the stub axle is rusty, you'll need to use some penetrating fluid and let it soak for a while first. Then you can slide the hub off the stub axle, with the wheel bearings still inside the hub. Once the hub is off, you pull the bearings out of it, using more penetrating fluid.

Thanks for that. The grub screw is loose and the ring (hub) where the grub screw was in cam loose (see pics) and a sort of a collar came loose. Any one knows the next step? Get the whole wheel of? Is there a trick to this?

Now that the collar is off, the wheel will slide off taking both the wheel bearings with it. Then you can extract the old wheel bearings from the wheel hub.

That loose piece between the collar and the wheel bearing is supposed to keep the dirt out of the wheel bearing. It may once have been part of the wheel bearing.

You better clean the Shaft up with some sandpaper really well.

If you can move the bearing onto the shaft a bit and clean the shaft right upto the bearing then the bearing should slide off.

There should be nothing left holding the bearing on other than rust!

Thank you

Allright got most of it of. I found that there was only 1 bearing in tact, the other one has just a view bits and pieces.
Now on the back of the shaft is still a ring left. Is that supose to come of aswell?
Thanks in advance Steffan

That is the inner ring of the second bearing: the one that broke up due to wear and neglect. You need to get it off, which may be difficult. First step is to soak it with Penetrene or another high quality penetrating oil. Leave it for a couple of hours or more, then try to lever it outward with a couple of screwdrivers behind it.

Cheers, thanks!
I hope that wd40 will do the job.

WD40 might take quite a bit more than a couple of hours, but if you have some, I suggest you try it and see.

grumpy is spot on as always with his advice.

I can give you one last chance option if you don't have access to an oxy ect and it is seriously rusted in place.

For safety wrap the bearing race with duck tape, only one or two layers. Jack up or place the stub axel on a block directly under that race in a way that the bearing race is taking all the weight. Then get a cold chisel an a decent hammer and start chiselling it from dead centre ontop. Its case hardened so its going to chew up your cold chisel edge fast, will need several resharpens. Case harden steel shatters like glass hence the duck tape to catch the shards. wear goggles ect. The idea is it should expand some from the chisel and or shatter some of the rust between it and the shaft before it shatters and loosen up on the shaft. But it may not and will shatter the actual race first, either way your problem will be solved.

DO NOT hammer on the stub axle unsupported.

this is a last resort method only if you don't have access to pullers, welders or an oxy to heat it with.

I've had success with that approach in dire circumstances myself. It was a light trailer that had smashed a wheel bearing and then got hot - balls no longer existed, and the inner ring had become blued up and seriously stuck. I didn't think oxy would work because it looked as if it had welded itself to the stub, and a reasonable pounding with a big chisel and a three pound hammer achieved nothing. I ground grooves across the inner ring with an angle grinder, then used the chisel in the bottoms of the grooves to break it into three pieces, each of which was welded to the stub. Then I applied the chisel underneath each piece in turn to break the welds. The stub needed a final polish before it was fit to receive the inner ring of the new bearing, but it worked, and it lived to haul a lot more (over)loads.