OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Walk Behind Lawn Mower Frames Question On Scott Bonnar Cylinder Mowers Repair of Scott Bonnar/Rover 45 Engine Deck

Hi Darryl,

I'm looking to repair my engine deck and I am after a step by step instruction on how to strip the machine. I'm quite happy to strip it completely and replace any worn parts as I go along. I have a feeling the clutch isn't 100% either and the blades need sharpening too. I also intend to overhaul the engine (Briggs - 91202 0123 01 93111703) but understand that it is covered on a different forum.

Thanks for helping me out here.

Cheers.

Hi Cloggy, I have been out rounding up cattle for a mate of mine, they are going for sale tomorrow....I've just got home, I need to shower and have some tucker...I shall be back on deck early tomorrow morning and shall give you the extra steps to take for the strip-down. In the meantime can you please have a look at our video; Click HERE Follow this closely, this is the first step I want you to take....Remove the reel and sole plate....Before you start, check back here.....more tomorrow!

Great. I'll start tomorrow.

Hi again Cloggy, Here are the first steps to strip your Rover to a bare chassis.In the interests of safety, remove the spark plug lead and secure it well away from the plug.
Have some suitable containers to put the parts in as you remove them and label the container...This will be invaluable for re-assembly after cleaning them.
Have your camera handy to take some pics as you go along.

(1) Just loosen the nuts on the cylinder reel (cutter) sprocket, the engine shaft (small) sprocket, and the roller clutch bolt whilst the chains are still attached....They can be hard to loosen if the chains are removed first. Then remove the grass deflector and attachment fittings.

(2) Remove all the chains, reel and soleplate as per the video.

(3)Remove the bearing carriers and adjusters.

(4) Remove the throttle assembly complete from the upper handle.

(5) Remove the 3 nuts and bolts from the cutter clutch (next to the engine) It splits in half.

(6) Remove the 4 bolts securing the engine to the chassis and slide the engine off the chassis and place somewhere safe.

(7) Remove the thrust bearing, cutter clutch cone, woodruff key and outer clutch half from engine shaft.

(8) Remove the engine shaft thrust pad, bearing carrier and engine shaft.

(9) Remove the cutter clutch actuating handle, clutch fork etc., from the chassis.
Can you report back when you have that all completed, and please post some pics.
We will go through removing the rear roller next.

Hi Darryl,

Got cracking this morning. Mission completed with little collateral damage (woodruff key in engine shaft got a little damaged when it was removed as it wouldn't play ball.) Could you please advise which part number it is as I noticed various ones on the Outdoor King online store.

All bearings seem OK as there is no grinding.

As you might notice the bearing holder on the chain side was not removed as the big bolt nearest the roller had sheared off and the end was flared so it remained in place. The previous owner must have down that. It was reluctant to remove it just in case I cant purchase a new identical bolt. Whats the best way of sourcing a new bolt? A local mower shop?

Thanks for the instructions, they were spot on.

Cheers.

Looking good, all coming apart nicely (except for the woodruff key) Well done mate!
I will discuss the parts you need, when we have a bare chassis. The next step will be the rear roller, the front roller assembly and we're done...one bare chassis.
We need then to discuss the repair procedure and the options you have.You need to decide at that time, whether you wish to restore it as a Rover 45 or a Scott Bonnar Model 45...it's all in the colour scheme and the decals and stickers. Some members feel the Scott Bonnar scheme is the better as it reflects Scott Bonnars build quality and kudos! But in the end it is up to what you prefer.
I will be on deck early tomorrow morning with the next set of instructions....
Cloggy, mate!

Hi Cloggy, We need to get a pic of that troublesome bolt and of the 'flared' "tenants improvement" of the bearing holder, as both those (left and right hand) have to come off with their adjustment screw.

Having a look at the cylinder reel, it sure has had a hard life, the wavy blade may need to be replaced....the engineer who does the spin-grind will advise you on that issue.
Seeing the condition of the reel, my advice would be to replace all bearings, as you don't wish to pull it all apart again after it has been restored, just to replace a failed bearing.

Re: the woodruff key and the bearing holder bolt, there is an Illustrated Parts List for your machine in the Parts Lists and Manuals area....this will come in handy to identify any of the parts you need....Access is by subscription, just click "My Stuff" in the top toolbar above, scroll to the bottom of the list and click "Subscriptions", Easy-Peasy!
Instructions for access Click HERE

For the front roller and frame removal:

(1) Remove the bolts securing the frame to the chassis; (1 each side)

(2) Remove the height adjuster by unscrewing the large knob, remove the spring, undo the nut on the inside of the front roller frame and remove the arm.

(3) Slide the complete roller assembly out.

(4) Remove the 2 rubber catcher support blocks.

For the rear roller removal:

(1) Remove the roller clutch cable and adjusting screw from the chassis bracket and actuating arm.

(2) Remove the large roller clutch sprocket by removing the centre bolt.

(3) Remove the secondary sprocket.

(4) Remove the primary chain adjuster. (Black plastic bracket that slides to adjust chain)

(5) Remove the roller clutch adjuster bracket and clutch plate.

(6) Remove the 3 bearing holder nuts and bolts from each side; then roll the roller out.

(7) Remove the 4 (2 each side) lower handle attachment nuts and bolts and remove the handle assembly.

You now have a bare chassis!

Can you please post some pics and report back when completed.

G'day Darrayl, Its all done.

The bearing holder bolt required the full treatment: hack saw, angle grinder, heat and the grips but the end she gave way without breaking the bearing holder.

Been also to a local mower shop and they can re-sharpen the reel but the soleplate will need to be replaced as it had too many knocks.

I think the next step is to clean everything up and have the frame welded. What are your thoughts?

The cork in the clutch seems a git greasy. Will degreasing to the job or should I replace it.

I will download the parts list later on.

Regards,

Hi Cloggy, Can you please post a photo of the cast iron soleplate.... I doubt we're on the same page here.... the soleplate carries the bedknife blade (held on by 6 screws). I would like to see it condition.

You should go to your local Bowling Club and find out who sharpens their reels and take your reel and soleplate (complete with the bedknife blade attached) and talk to the engineer. He can spin grind the reel and supply a new bed knife blade with new screws if necessary.
Please do not take it to your local mower shop....it will cost you more $$$ and they will probably send it out to be done anyway.

Hi Cloggy, the roller clutch cork should be replaced and so should the cork in the cutter clutch...(That could be the prob you are having with it)

You should also consider replacing the bearings in the rear roller...they could be clogged with dirt, grass and grit.

Hi Darryl,

for the bedknife blade see below. I have also downloaded the manuals and it went without a hitch. Been also to see the local bowling club and they pointed me in the right direction. Will take the reel etc down to the recommended shop and see what they say.

Regards,

Hi Cloggy, Phew mate!! I thought that the soleplate (that's the cast iron holder that the bed-knife is attached to) was a gonner (as per your post) I can see now that all is OK, and all you need is a new bed-knife blade....That will be ground also when the reel has been ground.

Don't forget to sandblast then paint (or powder-coat) the reel prior to going to the engineer. Mask off with masking tape, the area where the bearing sits on the reel, prior to painting.
Please let us know how you get on.