OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Reel-Type Mowers SB 45 adjustments and restoration

Oh Dave, you have just made a comment there regarding cutting paper that will probably result in a heap of info heading your way. Dont be too concerned over cutting paper mate, as grass & paper are completely different. I thought the same, however in my experience, and the results of my grass proves it, one can still achieve a perfect cut with minimal clearance between the bedknife and reel. Contact between the both, I reckon results in quicker wear of both components, so I suggest read the upcoming info/ posts before you set the blades. But hey, thats my opinion only and it works for me and for sure others will have their own ideas. Good luck!!
Over to you Deejay...lol

Cheers Ross

Regarding paper cutting, and clearances, on my imperial I adjusted it so the reel only just bottomed out, then raised it only just enough (say 1/8 of a turn) to only just clear it. After fiddling around a little longer I worked out it wasnt going to cut paper and having the reel as close as possible to the bedknfe worked a treat.

Deejay will give a more thorough explanation later I am sure

Thanks Joe and also to Ross...yes, we've all been here before...and it always sparks debate...But this time, I will say that this is the reason Joe and I did the video, and that was to make clear the adjustment procedure. I do not propose to go through it all again. Just trawl through the Scott Bonnar posts, you will find that this subject has been covered many times...

Dave, as Ross correctly explained, cylinder mowers are designed to cut grass not paper. Here is some info, that you might find of interest.....

Myth: You must have contact between cylinder and bedknife.

Fact: �You do not need contact between the reel and bedknife to cut turf grass. Contact between the reel and bedknife will generate heat which will have many effects on not only the turf grass, but also on the traction unit. The heat generated between the reel and bedknife will tinge the leaf blade. Also that heat can cause the bedknife to expand which will tighten the cutting unit up even more. The tighter the reel - bedknife contact, the more strain this puts on the traction unit which can cause hydraulic hose failure and premature failure of the hydraulic system�.

Contact between cylinder and bedknife causes drag requiring greater effort to turn the reel and in turn this greater effort has an adverse effect on drivelines and engines. This drag also leads to rapid wear and loss of sharp edges, as well as a poor quality of cut. With contact you have the undesirable �scissor� action instead of the desired �scything� action. It is the scissor action which damages the turf plant and can prolong the healing process.

Myth: New bedknives are �true� and don�t require grinding.

Fact: �New bedknives are certainly not true coming from the factory. Every bedknife that gets installed on a bed bar needs to be ground properly in order to achieve a consistent quality of cut. The bedknife is the single most important factor in achieving a great quality of cut. The bedknife�s job is to position the grass before the reel blade cuts it. Depending on where the position is will depend on how clean and consistent your turfs after cut appearance will look.

Bedknives will take the shape of the existing bed bar once tightened. By grinding the bed knife properly it will give you a smooth surface that you will then align to a reel that has been ground to a true cylinder. Once this is complete you will have 2 perfectly aligned surfaces that can achieve the quality of cut that everyone is looking for. It is very important that the bed knife is ground to its proper angle (manufacturer�s recommendations) in order to maintain high quality turf grass.

Hi Dave, just to clarify, all SB 45's had dome head screws to secure the chain-case cover originally....someone has done some 'tenants improvements' to yours and Chris' machine in the past.

Thank you to all who responded to my plight.

I have adjusted the reel down to just above the blade and as soon as I get a chance I will try it out on the lawn.

I suspect, from your replies, that it will be fine.

Regards,
Dave

Thanks Dave, can you please let us know how you get on, if you have adjusted to the minimal clearance is should you have a fine result on the lawn....some pics would be great after mowing.

I have searched the site but haven't come across a similar problem.
This has me stumped.

In putting my SB 45 back together I can't get the deflector back on.
Wierd, in my opinion, but the width of the deflector appears to be too big.

I can't see that there is any way I could have reduced the size of the frame but even attempting to use many angles of attack, the deflector simply jams up against the frame.




I feel like a complete goose not being able to figure this out.

I've even scratched my new paintwork trying to get it into place - I'm tempted to grab an angle grinder and remove a couple of mm from the deflector edge; but this shouldn't be necessary.

Dave

Hi Dave, I have merged this post with you're older thread for continuity.
This deflector came out of there, so it must go back in....the distance apart of the side frames can't change...because their joined by the engine deck rails....so it must be the method you're
using.

You insert it by sliding it in straight with the front edge parallel to the engine rails rolling it over and down until the 2 clips on the bottom of the deflector engage and clip onto the top edge of the soleplate....not like the pic you have posted, which is on an angle...it must be straight on. It should just about fall in.
You can see me re-installing one at precisely 11 minutes and 56 seconds into the video HERE
This will show you how to do it correctly, please let us know how you get on.

Thanks Deejay, I have watched the video quite often in the past - I love it!!

I understand what is supposed to happen, but it appears to have defied the laws of physics.

I believe that since removing the deflector 2 weeks ago, it has become bigger.

I'm going to remove some of that growth, so it will again slot in easily.

I shall then quickly install it so that it can't grow any more.

Dave

Must all of that rain we've had in the SE lately .....

Chris

The rain has been perfect for my putting green but I didn't expect the deflector to grow as well!!

I've ground off a couple of mm and she slots in nicely now.

I didn't need a press to fit the sprocket onto the bearing just needed to clean it and the bearing with wet and dry.

When I've finished this restoration I plan on making a short list of things to remember when dismantling and rebuilding.

One of the points will be to remember to loosen the sprocket nuts before removing the chains.

I am getting excited as I approach a time when I can start her up.

Dave

Did you do anything to the Tecumseh engine?

I have an H30 Tecumseh badged as a Kirby that I've stripped. I was thinking of starting a rebuild thread about it, with lots of photos, in one of the engine forums, but I don't know whether it would be of use as these engines seem to be universally reviled. I've also managed to source a workshop manual and a small supply of consumables (gaskets, seals etc.) from the US.

Chris

I have not touched the engine yet.

I was planning on pulling it down and repainting it but since it is running smoothly I thought I'd better leave it alone for now.

I also solved the mystery of the growing grass deflector.

The answer is: DON'T TIGHTEN THE SOLE PLATE AND REEL IF YOU HAVEN'T INSTALLED THE FRONT ROLLER. Duh.

Dave

Good lessons learned there Dave, that's probably the reason why I have never had the same prob, I have never removed or replaced parts without the front roller being in place.

Albeit this is off topic slightly, I think that for members wishing to restore their machine to original condition complete with the Kirby Tecumseh/ Lauson, your proposed thread in the Restoration and Customising forum > Engines would be of great value, Chris...especially if the various gaskets can be sourced and a workshop manual is on hand.
Well done mate, good thoughts there!

Here's a photo of my restored mower.
Yet to try it out on the lawn but it runs well.



The catcher has not been panel beaten; this is for a future project as is the motor restoration.

Dave

Hi Dave and on a job well done mate; you have persevered with your restoration and the end result is "Just like a bought one" She looks a treat....well done mate!

I can't wait till she gets to work on that lawn of yours Dave, don't forget to have a mowing regime....and that is; never mow in the same direction twice. In other words, and this is for cylinder mowers...mow on both diagonals, straight up and down, and back and forth side to side......this encourages the grass sward to intertwine and the result is a flat but undulating surface that is lush, with stripes...and the envy of the street!

Thanks Deejay I will ensure that I mow on different lines regularly.
Because the weather is getting cooler, the grass is struggling a bit to get through the top soil in a few places.
Still, I am confident that it will come up a treat.
I will post photos as she takes shape.
Regards.

Thanks Dave, we will look forward to seeing the pics when you post.
As this thread is now complete I will now close it. If any member has anything to add please PM a moderator.