OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Other Walk-Behind Rotary Mowers Greenfield 28" Slasher

Started on restoring the slasher today - New Honda GXV390 is on order so started the freshen up of the frame. Every thing appears to be in working order after sitting under the house for 15 years.

I'm looking at giving it a sandblast and repaint but wondering if it is worth the bother to mask off and protect the transfers that most have survived undamaged.

Thats a bit different to the one i have here.


I doubt you would get those transfers again.

I'd definately be keeping those transfers in place. It'll be a tricky and careful operation with the sandblaster though, even covered. I'd suggest using a piece of sheetmetal held in place as well.

Cheers.

Project is on hold and I am very frustrated - walking to the busstop down our street I stepped in a pothole and came down on both hands breaking both wrists. The left has a plate and 7 screws holding it together and in a splint and not allowed to left anything heavier than a cup of tea (read glass of red) while the right is in a splint and lets me know when I over do anything - Medical bills are $4000 and growing - seeing the soliciter tomorroww

Not good, sorry to hear it.

Hope you mend up better than new.

This is the pulley setup as mounted on engine - engine to the top- The spacers are between pulley and base-plate of the engine. Using digital vernier calipers the total height top to bottom is 82.4mm


This is the pulley and the two spacer rings - the measure 6.2mm and 6.3mm respectively.



This is the pulley without spacers - it measures 70.4mm with calipers. (OK the numbers don't exactly add up -the is a slight warp the the pulley so it depends where you measure)

Looks the same as what ive got.
3-3/8 A section (GT52 belt {B60})
5-1/4 B section (GT1971 belt {A25})
Over all its just under 3" high.

Belt sizes should show if the machines are similar.


Well i had a win with mine. Maybe.
Mine has a bore of about 1-9/16" down to about the last 1/4" which steps back into inch, a thick washer in the bottom and then a collar pushed in with the 1" keywayed bore. A grub screw through the side holding the collar in the pulley. I spied it when i was taking the snaps, on a hunch i grabbed a bit of steel bar and a big hammer and started smacking. Turns out i should have grabbed a bigger hammer but i got the sucker out.

Yours does not look to have the collar down the inside.

I will be ringing Greenfield on Monday to find out if i can get that same collar but with a 7/8 bore.

Give me some time and i will get the pics of mine up. I will do a thread on the machine ive got here and show the pulley etc.

Ive started a thread, its in this section.

My pulley is machined all in one piece with a 1" bore (.99" by calipers) Small pulley is 3" in diameter and large is 4.8"

I have just recieved new belts ordered as "blade and drive belts for Greenfield 28" self popelled slasher and they turned up as A25 and B60 - same as yours

Was the stuck mower a 28"???

The larger pulley is about a 1/4" smaller by my reckoning.
I doubt it will make much difference.
Especially with the motor you are putting on it. I was secretly thinking you could have been over powering the machine, but then you might have some jungle to rectify.
The smaller pulley is 3/8 smaller so that will see the machine go faster. That might work in your favour as with the motor you are getting you will not need to run it at full tilt.


With the spacers. I would assume they are to go on above the pulley to stop the pulley sliding up the shaft. So they would seat on the step on the crank where it comes out of the seal and then steps down to 1" diameter.
a washer under the pulley and a bolt up the centre of the crank to stop it falling down.

Where as the way my pulley was, it had the washer/step in the pulley so it couldnt go up and the press fit of the collar stopped it going down.


Could you please take a couple more pictures of the machine, id like to see what it looks like where the engine bolts on and the 'gearbox'.

I'll get some more pics up tomorrow when I'm back home. The new one advertised in the thread I posted says it can come with a Honda 11hp which I presume is the 390. Going faster will not be a problem as I have two sets of drive cogs - large and small - I swapped the small for the large originally because it was going too slow on the flat but after all these years and previous use the large are quite rusty and visibally worn so faster with the small cogs won't hurt. I'll be using this machine on the steep slope with plenty of "jungle" so I'll need all the power I can get.
The stuck mower was a 28" ride-on

Sounds like you are all over it.
I thought 360 was 11 and the 390 was 13. I always get it confused.

Limited with wrists in splints I managed to get a lot done today.
For Rodeobob I have some pictures of the engine mount plate - the bolts are in one set of holes so there are 8 holes in total to choose from.


Here is a series of the gearbox and drive axel - both in and out of the frame.






I proceeded to strip anything bolted on and cleaned them up on the wire wheel.





Gave the deck a going over with the flapper disk - a coat of primer them a top coat.





I've given the belt cover a going over with paint stripper but it needs more - same with the frame ( can't use the sandblaster with my wrists as the gear is down under the house and I can't get it up to the garage) I plan to give all the separate pieces one top coat of yellow then assemble it all and give it a second coat assembled. I'm using KillRust epoxy paint.

Thanks for the pics.


Theres no holding you back.

Rodeobob - can you tell me the length and diameter of the tension spring that holds the idler pulley on the drive belt - also where does it attach frame end?

OK - I've hit a bit of a snag - need some input on my possible solution.

Got it all back together - plonked the GXV390 on and it fouled ( or rather it sat up on the gear box and rested on the front shield - way longer obviously than models of Honda engines available when this model slasher was first released.

Turning it around 180 I can either line up 2 holes but the engine is slightly off centre and to get it on centre I will need to drill 4 new holes. However this option puts a lot of weight to the rear and leaves the front very light ( 1.8Kg on the front wheel) - this could be counted by adding weight to the front - I will also have to remodel the connecting rod for the drive engage lever.

If I re-drill 4 new holes I can get the drive shaft centred and the load moved forward about 25mm.

Is there any reason NOT to mount the engine backwards. Should the drive shaft be dead centre?

This is front on with drive shaft centred



This shows the rear overhang with drive shaft centred



This is the alignment with 2 holes lined up - the engine is off centre to the left



The two front hole right side. If I relocate to the closest to the spring the spring will be displaced slightly but still works tensioning the idler pulley



The space between the engine and shield - if turned 180 the engine sits on the shield



Just for interest the GXV340 is longer and the GXV160 is too under powered for the application.

With 250mm of rain pelting down last Monday I got stuck into doing some more - some new holes drilled and engine bolted down - Accelerator cable added - worked out in my head how to add the battery. Hooked up the drive belts and then found out that when you off set the engine even 10mm the belt guide rubs the drive pulley. Next weekend job will be to remake the belt guide at the same time I make the battery holder.

I couldn't find any handle gips with a big enough diameter to fit the handles and the bike shop suggested using handle bar tape - good except he said to use electrical tape to bind the ends - already the sticky tape is 'shrinking' and going sticky. Then I had a bright idea - heat shrink tube wrap. The electrical type turned out to be hellishing expensive but tolling eBay came across a fishing rod builders supply site and rod handle shrink wrap - cross hatched and all - 64" 35mm unshrunk diameter - just right - will slip over the cork bike wrap and shrink down to hold it all in place.

Mine has to have the motor around that way as well due to a different guard for the drive shaft.

Im not a fan of the idea. Id sooner do what it takes to turn the motor around.
I think mine was meant to have a 5hp on it around that way.

Being light on the front if its going to tip front up it wont do the motor many favours.


Did you sort the spring???

It's looking good David, well done.

It's Finished !



The battery mounting



The fishing rod shrink wrap handles



The front counter-balance weight to offset the extra over hang of the lager engine. ( couple of log splitting wedges screwed to frame)



Push button start from off road dirt bike.