OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Victa Two Stroke Engines Guide to the Victa G4/LM Cut-Out Assembly

Noticed a few quiestions here and there on the Victa G4/LM Cut-out assembly's, as these bloody plastic carby's have a nusiance cut out system, i tought i would post a guide to the process i have been using, once i got the order down pat, i have had alot less troubles with them.

Before you start, move the throttle control to about 1/2 way, this will free everything up.
Now, prepare your components, there should be 2 rubber boots, the smaller of which comes in 2 lengths, now with this boot, you will likely encounter one of 3 scenarios (provided its not missing, if it is, you need one!)

The first scenario is the short type boot, the second is the long type, and the 3rd scenario you may encounter is the long type, but damaged, this image should give you an idea (Dark Grey is the boot, Gold is the contact)



If you have either of the first 2, your fine, however if you have the long type, its not the end of the line, simply cut it about 1mm - 1.5mm from the top (Wide End) to create a short type, it will still function.

This boot is then fitted first; into the hole in the centre of the cut-out port of the carburettor (as below) to get it to fit snugly, a little working with an appropriate flat head screwdriver should do the trick.

If you are in luck (most Powertorque engines) one of the 2 cut-out wires will have a noticeably longer contact on the end (with a 4mm shallow groove running around it) as below, otherwise, you may encounter 2 equal sized contacts, and these are usually the shorter ones. Getting the cut-out assembly to function properly with the 2 shorter contacts is possible, but can be tricky, so if you have a scrap mower with the long contact, see if you can change it across, either by swapping wires or re-crimping the contact.



Now, check the larger rubber boot, it should be clean, and should not seem stiff or brittle, nor should it be cracked around the top (or anywhere else) if it is, it is best to replace it.



Slip the long contact (or one of the 2 short ones if that�s what you have) through the top of this, and let it slide along the cord a little, then take this contact, and keeping it at 90 degrees to the carburettor, push it into the smaller boot, until it touches the end of the boot, or the wall of the rotor/can inside the carburettor.

Now, slide the larger boot over the assembly, around the bottom of this is an un-even lip, with 2 small holes in it, and a flat area, this flat area should rest along the edge of the carburettor end-cap.

Now, take the small pin, and feed it through the smaller holes in the side of the larger boot, and the cut-out port, this will hold the boot in place, and run 90-degrees offset to the first contact. This pin should be fed from the bayonet side of the carburettor, to the end-cap/diaphragm end of the carburettor, at a diagonal. (In the below image, the boxes in the background represent the carburettor, the smaller one is the end-cap, and the black dot in the middle is the longer contact)



And here it is from the side, you can see the little rubber boot between the carburettor walls and the long contact.



to test, remove the spark plug, and connect to the HT lead as for a standard spark test, push the throttle fully down, and test spark, it should be present, then, firmly slide the throttle to stop, and when tested, there should now be no spark, if there is, loosen the adjusting screw just under the throttle control, and move forward about 1mm at a time, each time re-tightening, and re-testing, until there is no spark in the stop position.

Hope this can help somone.

I noticed the diagram i have above for the top view of the complete assemly has the cros-contact a little off angle (Is not actialy 90 degrees to end cap)

could not find a clear enought photo handy, but here, hopefully this will complete the pictire, what you should see when done.

thankyou for sharing that guide, I find poeople seem to have the most trouble with the seup when they are trying to use hard and perished boots, They are only a few bucks I usually replace them every time I do a carby rebuild on somones machine unless they are particularly good still.

Same here, its one of the parts i tend to keep stocked up on!

I usually keep 5 sets in my toolbox, its cheap insurance and bugger all effort and extra costs on my customers bills.

And on there side, its worth the small cost on there bill, saves them trouble in the futre!

Ty, thanks!
This topic is brilliant as I'm presently reassembling the G4 carby (some parts replaced). I have one query that will also apply to other novices...

How far should the top of the long pin extends BEYOND the small rubber plug / boot? Say 6mm? I think it does need to enter inside the circular body of the carburettor itself - behind the diaphragm + lifter, to rest upon the cam assembly?

- A

It should just touch the cam (or be a hair space from it) with the throttle at about 1/2 way, in some cases you may find this position jams the throttle into the lower half, if so, slowly ease the pin out just till you have smooth throttle movement.

I will post a pic ASAP for you

thanks for this write up, ive had plenty of dramas with these wires.

just curious are you doing the diagrams yourself or have you got them from somewhere else?

thanks for the advice. With my Victa throttle at 1/2 way, here's a picture of my carby.


I'm thinking that the long pin needs to be inserted a bit further in so the top 1/4 of this pin is fully upon the 'ramp' of the cam (when throttle fully off)? This ramp can be seen just above the pin in the photo.
- A

its pretty close, maybe 1mm more would be enough to be sure it wont skip off.

Does it have the smaller rubber boot pushed in firmly, normally you can just make out the bottom of this poking through as-well.

Also, if you cant replace the larger boot, at least turn the end of it in, otherwise it wont return properly (the bit that is poking out around the white cord should be folded in like in the 3rd and 5th pics above.

As far as im aware if it has the stepped pin it should have a long rubber. Not sure if thats right, if the long one works i just use it. In you pic above the rubber would add some lenght. Without the rubber its got to travel further up the ramp to 'contact'


When the mower is off return the throttle to the middle. Thats the advice i give, saves the rubber.


Another major problem ive seen is the throttle cable length being setup wrong. Pop the hose off the bottom of the housing. Undo the adjustment screw and pull the plastic holder on the cable down out of the housing. Wind it like a nut down the cable outer if the throttle is cutting out too early (in or close to the start position) or you can not get full song (check with the cover off the carb that its rotating around fully).
If it wont stop wind it up the outer. Usually you can just adjust this with the external screw.

I would assume if you have to do the above that something has happened over time or it has just never been right. I have had a couple it i have had to bin because the plastic holder was not gripping on the outer of the cable.

The small & large boots are interchangable with both pin types, however while it is advisable to cut damaged long ones down to short ones (as mentioned earlier) if buying new ones, yes, definatly try to match this pin with the long boot, it means more responsive and reliable stopping, plus its that little bit easier to get right.