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Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 12
mowall Offline OP
Novice
The cutting deck spindle bearings on my colt 5 are seized so I'm trying to get it apart.

I've managed to remove the drive pulley and unscrewed the pulley mounting hub.

Are the bolts underneath for the plate left hand thread ?

Last edited by CyberJack; 25/04/16 06:10 AM.
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Joined: Jan 2009
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Pushrod Honda preferrer
***
Hi mowall, welcome to Outdoorking.

I'm not clear on which parts you are talking about here. Here is the illustrated parts list drawing of the relevant area:
[Linked Image]


Please give the Item number of the bolts you are referring to.

Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 12
mowall Offline OP
Novice
Originally Posted by grumpy
Hi mowall, welcome to Outdoorking.

I'm not clear on which parts you are talking about here. Here is the illustrated parts list drawing of the relevant area:
[Linked Image]


Please give the Item number of the bolts you are referring to.


I have removed 57, 2, 3, and 5 from the top of the cutting deck spindle.

The ones I'm referring to are the 3 bolts and 1 large nut (45 and 57 at the very bottom of the drawing ) that hold the cutting plate to the bottom of the spindle. Are they left hand thread ?

Note : 57 has been used twice in the drawing.

Basically, I just want to know how to get the spindle apart so I can change the seized bearings.

Last edited by mowall; 04/06/14 08:03 PM.
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I think you can be pretty confident those will have conventional right hand threads. First, hex-head bolts with left hand threads are very, very unusual, and second, both of those fasteners (45 and 57) have to be undone in common service operations, not just overhauls, and those service operations are the same on this machine as on many, many others. To use a left-hand thread on a design which is just about universal on mowers, both push and ride-on, and which is always right-hand, would cause close to 100% of routine service procedures to result in stripped threads. The manufacturer who did it would be laughed out of the industry.

Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 12
mowall Offline OP
Novice
The reason I ask is because the spindle is just a bar threaded on both ends. The top collar (5) is threaded onto the spindle clockwise (normal for the direction of travel). If the bottom collar is also threaded onto the spindle, and I think it would be, and if it was threaded clockwise then the action of cutting grass and hitting rocks etc might tend to undo it and that's dangerous. Unfortunately, I've already snapped the head of one of the bolts (45) while trying to undo it anticlockwise.

Joined: Apr 2014
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mowall Offline OP
Novice
Well they are right hand threads.
Can't get the 3 bolts out without snapping the heads off them.
I will have to either drill them out or make a new boss.

Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,842
Likes: 14
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Originally Posted by mowall
The reason I ask is because the spindle is just a bar threaded on both ends. The top collar (5) is threaded onto the spindle clockwise (normal for the direction of travel). If the bottom collar is also threaded onto the spindle, and I think it would be, and if it was threaded clockwise then the action of cutting grass and hitting rocks etc might tend to undo it and that's dangerous.
Not in this case. From the location of the discharge chute, spindle rotation is clockwise, viewed from the top. With a right hand thread on the bottom, any resistance [from grass or object impact etc] to the rotation of the collar [called a 'disc boss' by Rover] will tend to tighten the boss on the shaft, not loosen it. The centre bolt will be RH thread also, for the same reason.

And as grumpy says, LH thread bolts are extremely rare. The only cutter deck I can recall encountering them on was the old Mobilco Heavycut self propelled slashers, which have anticlockwise blade rotation.

Quote
Unfortunately, I've already snapped the head of one of the bolts (45) while trying to undo it anticlockwise.

It's very common indeed for the bolts in blade carrier bosses [on all sizes of mowers] to rust into place, and for the heads to shear off when you try to undo them. They do get wet in service, after all.
Applying a good penetrating lube, and a bit of heat, beforehand is pretty much standard procedure for removing these. An impact wrench/driver can help too, if used with care. Even then, it's still common to need to either replace the boss, or redrill offset and tap it, after the bolts all shear.

Some metal-based anti-seize compound on the bolt threads is a very good idea when assembling them, as well. Including the centre bolt.


Cheers,
Gadge

"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."

"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
Joined: Jan 2012
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Originally Posted by mowall
Well they are right hand threads.
Can't get the 3 bolts out without snapping the heads off them.
I will have to either drill them out or make a new boss.

Often it's easier to lay out three new holes on the same pitch circle as the existing ones, and just drill and tap them. 120� spacing is usual, but check this on your boss. Rover use US UNC/UNF threads on these bits.

Less mucking about than getting busted bolts out!


Cheers,
Gadge

"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."

"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 12
mowall Offline OP
Novice
Originally Posted by Gadge
Originally Posted by mowall
The reason I ask is because the spindle is just a bar threaded on both ends. The top collar (5) is threaded onto the spindle clockwise (normal for the direction of travel). If the bottom collar is also threaded onto the spindle, and I think it would be, and if it was threaded clockwise then the action of cutting grass and hitting rocks etc might tend to undo it and that's dangerous.
Not in this case. From the location of the discharge chute, spindle rotation is clockwise, viewed from the top. With a right hand thread on the bottom, any resistance [from grass or object impact etc] to the rotation of the collar [called a 'disc boss' by Rover] will tend to tighten the boss on the shaft, not loosen it. The centre bolt will be RH thread also, for the same reason.

And as grumpy says, LH thread bolts are extremely rare. The only cutter deck I can recall encountering them on was the old Mobilco Heavycut self propelled slashers, which have anticlockwise blade rotation.

Quote
Unfortunately, I've already snapped the head of one of the bolts (45) while trying to undo it anticlockwise.

It's very common indeed for the bolts in blade carrier bosses [on all sizes of mowers] to rust into place, and for the heads to shear off when you try to undo them. They do get wet in service, after all.
Applying a good penetrating lube, and a bit of heat, beforehand is pretty much standard procedure for removing these. An impact wrench/driver can help too, if used with care. Even then, it's still common to need to either replace the boss, or redrill offset and tap it, after the bolts all shear.

Some metal-based anti-seize compound on the bolt threads is a very good idea when assembling them, as well. Including the centre bolt.

Yes, you are right . I was thinking backwards. It will tend to tighten.

Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 12
mowall Offline OP
Novice
Originally Posted by Gadge
Originally Posted by mowall
Well they are right hand threads.
Can't get the 3 bolts out without snapping the heads off them.
I will have to either drill them out or make a new boss.

Often it's easier to lay out three new holes on the same pitch circle as the existing ones, and just drill and tap them. 120� spacing is usual, but check this on your boss. Rover use US UNC/UNF threads on these bits.

Less mucking about than getting busted bolts out!

All three snapped off.
This is a very good idea to drill new holes on the same boss.
It will certainly save a lot off trouble.
Now to see if I've got one of those taps. Might just use 6mm.

I bet getting those bearings out will be a thrill too.

Last edited by mowall; 05/06/14 01:05 AM.
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,842
Likes: 14
Moderator
Originally Posted by mowall
Now to see if I've got one of those taps. Might just use 6mm.
The thread spec isn't that critical, but the diameter is - pick a size that will be a good fit in the holes in the blade disc. Even if you have to enlarge those holes slightly to get a good fit [say 0.5mm clearance on diameter].

Don't want too much slop there, as these bolts take the torsional shock loads when the blades hit something..


Cheers,
Gadge

"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."

"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,334
Likes: 30
Repair Junkie
****
Originally Posted by mowall
Originally Posted by grumpy
Hi mowall, welcome to Outdoorking.

I'm not clear on which parts you are talking about here. Here is the illustrated parts list drawing of the relevant area:
[Linked Image]


Please give the Item number of the bolts you are referring to.


I have removed 57, 2, 3, and 5 from the top of the cutting deck spindle.

The ones I'm referring to are the 3 bolts and 1 large nut (45 and 57 at the very bottom of the drawing ) that hold the cutting plate to the bottom of the spindle. Are they left hand thread ?

Note : 57 has been used twice in the drawing.

Basically, I just want to know how to get the spindle apart so I can change the seized bearings.

Here are links to the parts that you want to replace.

Bolt CLICK HERE

Nut CLICK HERE


Regards,
[Linked Image]

Bruce


Please do not PM me asking for support. Post on the forums as it helps all members not just the individual.

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