Trying to revive a 15yo Trade Tools 6KVA genset. I think engine is around 11hp. Many of the vacuum and fuel lines were split and have been replaced. There is what appears to be a small one way valve connected between the engine side of the carby and a diaphragm on the carby choke assembly. I have attached a couple of photos of it. Unfortunately this gizmo was already broken and whatever was supposed to be inside is long gone. Is there anything special about this valve? What can I use to replace it?
I don't really understand the purpose of this valve and the choke diaphragm. Can anyone explain how it is supposed to work?
While I'm at it I'd also like to know the function of a solenoid at the bottom of the carby. Is this a fuel shut off in case of low engine oil?
The solenoid is to cut fuel flow when you shut the motor off.
The diaphragm works exactly the same way it does on many car carbies eg holden varajet.
Generally its only use is if it is electric or remote start, but most have them anyway. If it had electric start, it would automatically shut the choke valve when cold, once it fires, the vacuum on the diaphragm pulls the choke off
that part is probably a vacuum reducer (many cars used similar with vac operated heater valves) or perhaps a one way to prevent a backfire blowing the diaphragm
If its manual start, block the vacuum hose and forget it
Looks like a one way valve ,it may just work by holding vacuum in the choke diaphragm when you turn the motor off otherwise when you started a hot motor the choke would be on , it may take half an hour for the choke to close with this one way valve when you turn the motor off.
That's a guess as I can't see the carby or the diaphragm .
I'd just get a car windscreen washer one way valve and use that.The Volvo one would need one hole blocked.
Hi guys, just had a look online and it is indeed a check valve. honda part (for a 270 or 390 is "VALVE, DASHPOT CHECK" 36135-ZF6-D41) bloody expensive though
The engine has 188F on it and is 13hp. See attached image.
The Honda part number for the check valve appears correct. I think I'll try a more cost effective alternative first.
BTW - Whatever alloy material the fuel tap is made out of is rubbish. It had snapped off but still had enough thread to be useful. Removed old thread from tank and reinstalled - snapped off again while installing. Only had a tiny bit of thread left so wound it in as much as possible and glued it in with Araldite. The alloy appeared soft as if the fuel had weakened it somehow. It couldn't have been this weak at manufacture as it wouldn't have survived transport.
